Moderator Airhead Posted August 15, 2011 Moderator Posted August 15, 2011 No I haven't got a parts manual. Third pic down in listing looks to me as if there is a dent where the wires come out. Might be my eyes I am getting tired LOL Not sure if it is there as design or as a dint from misuse Ahh yes I didnt scroll down
gazward Posted August 20, 2011 Author Posted August 20, 2011 Right, well I tried to update this last night and just as I had posted they had shut the server down so here goes again. Cost so far £168 running total £20 2x tins of hammerite £5 tin of lacquer £150 respray of all parts ready for decals £8 tin of chrome spray Total so far £351 I think LOL
gazward Posted August 20, 2011 Author Posted August 20, 2011 Here are some progress pictures Wheel before sanding Half way through Finished with a chrome spray to try and get the spokes back to the right colour Not sure on this chrome spray or not, I am just trying to get the bike tidy without having to spend a fortune. Think it will do until I can afford new parts.
gazward Posted August 20, 2011 Author Posted August 20, 2011 Sorry for smaller pictures they are taken off my phone Frame after several coats of hammerite and a few of lacquer. I didn't want a high gloss finish on my frame and it is my first go LOL
gazward Posted August 20, 2011 Author Posted August 20, 2011 Ok I have sent my tank and panels off to be painted and I need to find some decals, any ideas where I can get them from? If not an exact copy any which are near enough would do for me
gazward Posted August 20, 2011 Author Posted August 20, 2011 Starting to put it back together now As some of you may know I am trying to source a new rear mudguard, but until then I have braced the crack and just covered and sprayed the crack until I find one Comments please
gazward Posted August 20, 2011 Author Posted August 20, 2011 I filled the forks with 150ml of fork oil density 10, is this the correct type as Haynes just said fork oil or 30w engine oil
blackhat250 Posted August 20, 2011 Posted August 20, 2011 A lgreat little RS " have your flushed the tank ? heres great stuff ,,,Flow liner bio rust, its crystal"s perfect, will clean tank to metal,, www.flowliner.co.uk .its on ebay too .. cheapish..
gazward Posted August 21, 2011 Author Posted August 21, 2011 It was suggested to me that if the bike was running and didn't have a problem with leaks or fuelling then I should probably just leave it as if I remove the surface rust it may leave a weakness in the tank. I was told it was due to it be stood for a long time with no fuel in, and if I am going to use it regular then it shouldn't rust up anymore. I've already sent the tank for painting now so I hope that is true. I am hoping for a completed bike which looks tidy, hasn't cost me the Earth and one which I wouldn't be scared of riding every day. i.e not concour, Thank you for your advice if it does start to act up then I would for certain give it a go. Gareth
gazward Posted October 28, 2011 Author Posted October 28, 2011 WOOHOOO! Finally got my paint job back. Going to fit first thing and then post pictures. Sorry I have not been updating regular but been waiting for this moment.
ashleyjones Posted November 13, 2011 Posted November 13, 2011 Hi guys, started my own RS 100 project, had the bike bike from new and it is now a non runner, I suspect the crank seals have gone. Started splitting the engine and have decided to do the job properly and do a complete over haul on the whole bike not just the engine! I look forward to exchanging tips and advice Ash
gazward Posted March 6, 2012 Author Posted March 6, 2012 Sorry guys I have finally gotten round to getting the bike back together with a new light. So I have put everything back together pictures to follow, looking good but now I have got no electrics working, nothing at all. I can get the ignition to turn the bike ready to start and to turn off the engine Checked fuses and power supply but nothing is happening with lights or anything. Could this be just me getting the rectifier the wrong way round, a bad earth or is there something really simple I am overlooking. Thank you in advance Gareth
blackhat250 Posted March 6, 2012 Posted March 6, 2012 Nothing at all. is ther charge in battery? then the earth, big conection underneath tank, , multimeter needed, start tracing to see how far you have power,
gazward Posted March 7, 2012 Author Posted March 7, 2012 No nothing at all, theres power coming from the flywheel but I am not sure what it should read. Battery is now discharged but it used to get power when i revved it. I am at a lost LOL before when it was bodged a little the indicator relay was only a 2 pronged unit instead of a 3. Could this be the cause either. Anyone want to come and have a look with me?? Be a good trip out for you blackhat LOL
blackhat250 Posted March 7, 2012 Posted March 7, 2012 Gaz" youve got to go back to basics, start by following all wires , up from magneto, pull apart conections,, check the wire is still in the spades, , and not broken , i"v had this before, have you a test light, ? or a meter , there cheap, and charge battery again, Darley dale ? If only it were summer,
Moderator Airhead Posted March 7, 2012 Moderator Posted March 7, 2012 why is the battery discharged? you say you got the rectifier the wrong way, this would flatten the battery yes...just so long as the fuse held on! is there a symbol on the rectifier...a triangle with a line against one of the points? what colour wires are attached to rhe rectifier?
gazward Posted March 9, 2012 Author Posted March 9, 2012 This is the second time of putting the wires back on, they all seem to be continuous and correct. (pain in the a**e to wire back up in behind the light LOL) I have wired it up according to the Haynes manual, Next sunny day I am out there trying to sort it and getting you guys some pictures. Charging battery up now Airhead the charge doesn't last very long when it is cold and the bike is not running. Rectifier is under tank not had chance to examine it yet, think it is in right way as I followed the instruction, but was wondering if it wasn't the right way would this have the same effect as cutting out all my electrics? Fuse is present and correct. Blackhat I've never been to Scotland maybe a challenge for me once done eh? LOL
gazward Posted March 24, 2012 Author Posted March 24, 2012 Sorry guys I have gotten a multi meter, disconnected battery to charge it up and started checking wires. It seems as soon as I turn the ignition on the whole bike is connected to the live wire. i.e multimeter on red wire where battery connects and the other end will beep no matter what wire I put it on including the chassis. Anyone know where this troublesome earth could be? Could it be the ignition? Any Ideas would be appreciated as I really don't want to be taking it all apart again to see if I can find it. Or anyone local enough to pop in and lend a hand? I can promise tea and biscuits Thank you in advance Gareth
Moderator Airhead Posted March 24, 2012 Moderator Posted March 24, 2012 lets eliminate the rectifier, maybe it is connected right but to prove it is or isnt the problem just unplug one of the wires to it with the engine stopped...does this help any? a common place for bad earths is where the loom wraps around the steering head on its way into the headlight...look for chaffing here
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