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Posted

Totaly agree with Paul you will not unless you buy new "REPO" find any decent panels out there ,even the States stuff exposed to the sun for 30 years is knackered now ,and have you seen the cost of a repo rear mudguard you would think they were made out of gold and not the same stuff plastic buckets are made from :spin2:

Nick just putting my engine back in and have had same prob with kickstater, taken side cover off coil spring nib still hooked into hole so removed lot and have just re-coiled spring and refit not too sure why this has happenend my theory of the end nib breaking off might be a whole load of crap !!!!!! LOL

taken a pic and will upload for you to see

RefittingEnginePics001.jpg

All the best Phil

BY the way anyone having trouble with new spell checker ?

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Posted

Surely if you paint the plastics the paint will just chip off or am I talking rubbish? They are injection moulded the right colour rather than being painted no?

As long as you use 'PLASTIC PRIMER' as an undercoat on the plastic first, you can spray afterwards with any acrylic paint on top of that, I've just recently re-sprayed a white plastic headlight cowling, black and you'd never tell it had been sprayed once T-cut and polished.

Posted

Sorry to Hijack thread(as my mate Nev would say ) but seeing as were talking painting etc...........my rear mudguard is in a state extra holes , damage, whats the best for filling these prior to painting ? Oh and Nev got engine stuck in last night, was not too hard, hardest bit was hooking up Engine/carb to airfilter box forgotten how tight a job this was.

Phil

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Posted

Sorry to Hijack thread(as my mate Nev would say ) but seeing as were talking painting etc...........my rear mudguard is in a state extra holes , damage, whats the best for filling these prior to painting ? Oh and Nev got engine stuck in last night, was not too hard, hardest bit was hooking up Engine/carb to airfilter box forgotten how tight a job this was.

Phil

Never had the problem Phil but how about countersinking the extra holes both sides, then filling with flexible body filler? and smooting off when totaly dry...visible side only

Posted

Thats not a bad idea Paul on the smaller holes, could use number plate screws :idea: but have one thats a bit of a mess and a bit bigger than 6mm ,am sure can do something with it, and its by far ! not the biggest prob i have got, to get the DT finished.

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Posted

Thats not a bad idea Paul on the smaller holes, could use number plate screws :idea: but have one thats a bit of a mess and a bit bigger than 6mm ,am sure can do something with it, and its by far ! not the biggest prob i have got, to get the DT finished.

doesnt matter how big the holes are, countersinking both sides will mean the new filler 'plug' cant fall out, if the hole is large(ish) cut a disk from some fine mesh to support the filler

If you need some fine mesh i could post you some, they use it at work for filter screens

Posted

Thanks Phil and OG. The panels look great. My side panels have deep scratches though so should i just sand them down?

Also, where is the best place to find the original blue paint?

Phil I have changed my gearbox oil to see if that makes a difference to the kickstart.

Posted

Ahhhhh Nick that summat I hadn't thought on, I have no oil in mine at mo :eusa_think: finger,s crossed for both of us, please keep me updated as save's taken in bits again.

I would def sand down to get a key for primer and as Nev said use car filler for scratches before you prime ,oh and it.s best to use proper plastic primer, I have never bothered, but I have a pair of panels I painted years ago and the paint is cracked now so this poss down to not using proper stuff.

As for paint ? I would have a good look at the cars etc...on the road, to try and match best colour ? that blue that you see Transits in is fairly close what do you think ?

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