NEV Posted August 20, 2011 Posted August 20, 2011 Hi Nev sorry to hear your not 100% mate, its a bummer when your not good I feel crap most days working shifts, its no dam good only the cash LOL,anyway you have something to look forward to geting the DTr finished Eh Re rod s stuck them in oven for 1/2hr, My mate toild me to get them to 200deg + must have been near ?but they would have cooled down by the time i got over to welding shop, he uses a mini oven" he called it ? you know the things you keep arrows in ??????? to keep just a boxfull warm. Anyway had another look a wiring whilst having a smoke in garage stuck cdi to loom , and theres a extra red/yellow so def barking up wrong tree with this one, har well it only set me back $5.00 prob is time ??????? so if this is no good might as well whist waiting (AGAIN ) buy some paint etc...... Keep in touch Nev and all the best to the rest Phil PS. how did you manage to get a pic up on your id I tried all sorts but woud only come up with failed and as for BP not given up yet. That might not lettuce celery be bad news Phil, maybe you have a red/yellow wire extra coming off your CDI, same as I have a black / yellow wire extra, mine goes to the non existant powervalve servo. you'll need to check mate
philmountains Posted August 23, 2011 Author Posted August 23, 2011 Yet another word of warning to anyone out there wanting to swap there front forks to US leading type they dont fit, what a dick head !!!!!!!!I have no caliper,s at home but reckon that they are only a mill or two diff, but even brute force wont get them in, hope the post from the US to here won't be too bloody radiculous "SHIT"
Moderator Airhead Posted August 23, 2011 Moderator Posted August 23, 2011 Yet another word of warning to anyone out there wanting to swap there front forks to US leading type they dont fit, what a dick head !!!!!!!!I have no caliper,s at home but reckon that they are only a mill or two diff, but even brute force wont get them in, hope the post from the US to here won't be too bloody radiculous "SHIT" Hmmm shame you didnt research it first Phil, the parts manuals are all available from this forum. I just had a look and i see the very first American DT175E actually had the same forks as ours but all the later ones had the leading axle ones and yes....the part number of the triple clamp differs between the two styles.
philmountains Posted August 23, 2011 Author Posted August 23, 2011 Paul should re - do my topic how not to LOL !!!!!!! Paul do you know if the american 78 DT 125 is leading Type ?
NEV Posted August 23, 2011 Posted August 23, 2011 Phil, these forks that Andy is selling, I know they're off a 125, but are'nt 175 ones the same? Nev
Moderator Airhead Posted August 23, 2011 Moderator Posted August 23, 2011 Phil, these forks that Andy is selling, I know they're off a 125, but are'nt 175 ones the same? Nev no they are early LC forks, as it happens they were a popular modification to raise the ground clearance along with jacking the back end. depends on how standard you want to keep it really but yeah they will fit as far as i know but would look silly without the rear jacked also and new vcables for speedo and front brake may be needed.
philmountains Posted August 23, 2011 Author Posted August 23, 2011 Hi Nev thanks for having a look for me mate, no dont think 125 LC are the same, they are leading ,but sure they are different diameter ,I know you cannot fit them to the DT 175/125 MX yokes. I am doing a search US and there are by the looks 3 different yokes from 78-83 have contacted guy in LasVegas who I bought the forks off ,he is a decent chap fingers crossed !!! He would have thrown them in with the price but I was botherd about weight ,you know the main reason went for these(not our Euro type) was that there was no pitting,It still will take some doing to get up to £150 for Hard Chrome on my other pair. Thanks again Boys for your support in this high tensioned episode or should it be comedy drama !
NEV Posted August 23, 2011 Posted August 23, 2011 "no they are early LC forks, as it happens they were a popular modification to raise the ground clearance along with jacking the back end. depends on how standard you want to keep it really but yeah they will fit as far as i know but would look silly without the rear jacked also and new vcables for speedo and front brake may be needed." Ah right, well I've learned something new anyroad, cheers OG Phil, if your man in LV,doesn't come up trumps with his forks, how about trying a different tack, and see if forks off an old XT might fit, as I'm sure the forks on my old xt look pretty much the same
philmountains Posted August 23, 2011 Author Posted August 23, 2011 Just had another look at them, and without a mic or calipers !!!, standard Euro DT s are 30mm and the US leading are 32mm. The distance from top of fork to spindle center is the same so no ride height difference unlike the DT125 LC. one thing out of this is hopefully other forum members wont get caught in this trap, here goes my money saved for the paint !!!!!
philmountains Posted August 23, 2011 Author Posted August 23, 2011 Hi Paul thanks for chipping in, I already have 2 pairs of the standard forks but are both badly pitted on chrome ,going to see what my mate Jim in the states comes back to me with ,hope that there is nothing else different ?am sure clock,s bracket is same as Euro ? tube/bearing spindle ?
Moderator Airhead Posted August 23, 2011 Moderator Posted August 23, 2011 Hi Paul thanks for chipping in, I already have 2 pairs of the standard forks but are both badly pitted on chrome ,going to see what my mate Jim in the states comes back to me with ,hope that there is nothing else different ?am sure clock,s bracket is same as Euro ? tube/bearing spindle ? All different part numbers PM me you email address
Moderator Airhead Posted August 28, 2011 Moderator Posted August 28, 2011 Phil I will check those numbers for you but first I want to 'bounce' this idea off you. I know you have all the components for a good set of european forks but with cosmetic pitting only between the yokes bu good in the working area, and that you naturally dont want to lash out on Philpotts hard re-chroming just yet at around £150. so then i saw this on another forum, it is actually for a dt175 and i thought you may like to see it shall we call them decorative sleeves
Moderator Airhead Posted August 28, 2011 Moderator Posted August 28, 2011 as for other differences between the US / European bikes European Speedo bracket 2A6-83519-00 2A6-83570-30 Speedometer assy 1V1-83536-00 Tachometer assy 401-25181-01 Wheel axle 90171-12005 Nut castle 2A6-25120-00-98 Brake shoe plate 1981 DT175H (American) Speedo bracket 3J0-83519-00-00 2N4-83570-A0-00 SPEEDOMETER ASSEMBLY 2X1-83540-F0-00 TACHOMETER ASSEMBLY 353-25381-00-00 AXLE, WHEEL 90171-10004-00 NUT, CASTLE 2N4-25016-01-98 BRAKE SHOE PLT ASSEMBLY It looks like the ignition switch on the US bike does not mount on the meter base so perhaps it mounts directly to the top yoke? of course this also has a different part number. There may be more i havent considered
busyeddie Posted August 28, 2011 Posted August 28, 2011 Just read this whole topic. Its funny how I struggled with similar problems on mine. On the American loom, does your bike have the smaller cdi and just the one source coil? Sounds to me like you have the loom from a 78/79 bike.
philmountains Posted August 29, 2011 Author Posted August 29, 2011 Thanks again Paul for all your hard work ,you are a credit to this forum mate. Well in the past I have had the same idea for covering up the pitting on the top part of the tubes ,yeh it does not look bad in the pics, but I think we all know that its going to look a bit of a bodge but you know begger's carn't be choosers !! Anyway I am getting the yokes sent over it has ended up costing £35 ish inc post so is not going to totaly ruine me LOL I did do a bit of checking myself and I am 100% sure the yokes/tree that are on there way are from a1981 dt as these have unlike the other yokes 4 lug like mounts 2 will be for the clocks bracket ,other 2 not to sure on? and i also did a search on the clock bracket and i got the No 1178891 on 79-80- 81 on the 1978 the 175 and125 had a bracket 1163343 "matt finish" the bottom tree/yoke 79-81 No's 1167836. Anyway whatever !!!!!the tube's will fit as there 32mmm yokes comming, I think i am getting a bit obsessive again. Eddie the loom well were do I start Electrics !!!!!!!!!!! Have so far managed to reserect a old cdi with ,cannot remenber now which /what colour exra wire but solder wire and heat shrink have gone into that job ! next is the stator plate it,s the one with a extra small coil in it the wires right up to the coils are knackerd brittle, bodged so going to have to redo from start ,good job I have a couple of old looms for connectors /colours etc..... Nev did a real"Proper" job, on his but lack of the folding stuff you know the script. So Eddie I am not the only insane person on this forum most folk just seem to do a rebuild Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh but that would be easy. All the best to you all and thanks again Paul will just see how the next episode goes all exciting stuff
Moderator Airhead Posted August 29, 2011 Moderator Posted August 29, 2011 what about the other differences phil...the brake plate / spindle etc.Have you tried your brake plate against the new fork...is it ok?
NEV Posted August 29, 2011 Posted August 29, 2011 Phil I will check those numbers for you but first I want to 'bounce' this idea off you. I know you have all the components for a good set of european forks but with cosmetic pitting only between the yokes bu good in the working area, and that you naturally dont want to lash out on Philpotts hard re-chroming just yet at around £150. so then i saw this on another forum, it is actually for a dt175 and i thought you may like to see it shall we call them decorative sleeves Phil as an even cheaper alternative to OG's chrome tubes, now no laughing, is mirror chrome vinyl, seriously mate I was in our local super dooper store Trago Mills, when I noticed some stuff called Eclipse window mirror, or very similar, and I jest not, it's just like chrome on a roll, big sheet about 2ft square, £7-£8 quid, it looks very thin, but also looks pretty stiff too, ideal for wrapping around pitted tubes, I had a google came up with this site, but maybe you can have a google or two yourself, if this idea interests ya mate. I suppose it's same as vinyl foil wrapping paper but much thicker and stiffer. http://www.rvinyl.co...-Film-Wraps.htm Although I'd go for OG's chrome sleeving, even stainless will polish up mirror, if you could knock up a couple at work, maybe? plus if you got to 1/8" it's extra strength for the fork tubing too.
Recommended Posts