78caferacer Posted May 27, 2011 Posted May 27, 2011 Hi guys i have already introduce my self a couple of weeks ago and since then i haven't been able to ride. first it didn't idle and i also noticed low compression on the right just by putting my hand on the exhaust,i went and adjust it the valves but i think i may be a little bit off not much.However compression was the same (hand feel),the only thing that change some how the left sound it aggressive and louder still didn't idle,one more thing i just got a new battery because i had to jump start it with my car all the time,i don't know if is ok to jump it with the car but i did until it wont even turn any more with the jump so i got a new battery. I'M A MESS I also took the carbs apart and spray cleaned but i notice the floats were not level so i try to even them.Now wont even start,i finally check the compression took spark plug off and attach the tool, kick 4 times.Left 60-rigth 0000 I put little oil on left went up to 90-Right up to 30. Been reading o lot and everybody says piston rings but i will adjust the valves better and also would check the points. AHH ALMOST FORGOT THE LEFT THAT SHOWS NO COMPRESSION, ITS SPARK PLUG ALWAYS LOOK SMOKE SO IM THINKING IS NOT FIRING PROPERLY. or running lean?HOW DO I CHECK SPARK? PLEASE HELP SUMMER IS ALREADY HERE I WANT TO RIDE!
Moderator Airhead Posted May 27, 2011 Moderator Posted May 27, 2011 You need to get the valve clearances right, get them wrong and you will have reduced compression. The question is...how is this done properly?
78caferacer Posted May 28, 2011 Author Posted May 28, 2011 I know i don't even make sense any more. Ok why do the spark plug look smoke after a few minutes of riding? i heard of oil on the tip but not smoke.
78caferacer Posted May 28, 2011 Author Posted May 28, 2011 You need to get the valve clearances right, get them wrong and you will have reduced compression. The question is...how is this done properly? ok yes, how do you do the valve adjustment? where do you start? Thanks..
JimR Posted May 29, 2011 Posted May 29, 2011 ok yes, how do you do the valve adjustment? where do you start? Thanks.. To Check the valve clearances do the following 1) remove the valve covers 2) remove the l/h engine cover (shiny one with Yamaha written on it) 3) using the 17mm bolt you can see turn the motor over until LT shows in the little window and both valves on the l/h cylinder are closed 4) adjust the intake valve to 0.1 mm clearance 5) adjust the exhaust valve to 0.15 mm clearance 6) turn the motor over until RT shows in the little window and both valves on the r/h cylinder are closed 7) adjust the valves to the same as the l/h cylinder but from reading this thread I guess your problem does not lie there ... Do your compression tests (both wet & dry) this will give you an idea on which part (if any) of the motor is failing if all is well turn your attention to the carbs & ignition timing
78caferacer Posted May 30, 2011 Author Posted May 30, 2011 To Check the valve clearances do the following 1) remove the valve covers 2) remove the l/h engine cover (shiny one with Yamaha written on it) 3) using the 17mm bolt you can see turn the motor over until LT shows in the little window and both valves on the l/h cylinder are closed 4) adjust the intake valve to 0.1 mm clearance 5) adjust the exhaust valve to 0.15 mm clearance 6) turn the motor over until RT shows in the little window and both valves on the r/h cylinder are closed 7) adjust the valves to the same as the l/h cylinder but from reading this thread I guess your problem does not lie there ... Do your compression tests (both wet & dry) this will give you an idea on which part (if any) of the motor is failing if all is well turn your attention to the carbs & ignition timing Thanks o Lot JimR, i will as soon as i get a chance, will let you know how it went.Cant wait to ride
JimR Posted May 30, 2011 Posted May 30, 2011 Thanks o Lot JimR, i will as soon as i get a chance, will let you know how it went.Cant wait to ride It would be nice to know if you get the bike to run !!!
78caferacer Posted May 31, 2011 Author Posted May 31, 2011 It would be nice to know if you get the bike to run !!! so i check the valves and they were wrong too close, so i did it right this time but now im looking to see where i can find the right gap for the points. last time just by turning the inanition to the ON position the Main fuse will get really hot.i got a new charge battery and when i try to start it it only does half a spin to the engine and the fuse will get even hotter. as we speak i'm taking the starter apart to see if there is something burn. they said the starter is what causes the fuse to get hot.What should i look for on the starter and how do i fix it if this is the problem? Thanks again JimR.
JimR Posted June 2, 2011 Posted June 2, 2011 so i check the valves and they were wrong too close, so i did it right this time but now im looking to see where i can find the right gap for the points. last time just by turning the inanition to the ON position the Main fuse will get really hot.i got a new charge battery and when i try to start it it only does half a spin to the engine and the fuse will get even hotter. as we speak i'm taking the starter apart to see if there is something burn. they said the starter is what causes the fuse to get hot.What should i look for on the starter and how do i fix it if this is the problem? Thanks again JimR. Like Wow you have a problem that made me some money in the 70's !!! ... The main fuse getting hot .. this indicates a short within the 12v DC system, this may be the ignition switch, reg/rec or just a bad/broken wire in the loom .... Talking of points if you have access to a single cylinder dwell meter set the dwell angle to 22.5 degrees (rather than gapping) ... the motor will run well !!! but if you do not have access to a dwell meter you may find setting the ignition timing statically is better is better than setting the point gap & using a strobe to set the timing. if you need info on statically setting the timing PM me I'll knock something together for you
78caferacer Posted June 7, 2011 Author Posted June 7, 2011 Like Wow you have a problem that made me some money in the 70's !!! ... The main fuse getting hot .. this indicates a short within the 12v DC system, this may be the ignition switch, reg/rec or just a bad/broken wire in the loom .... Talking of points if you have access to a single cylinder dwell meter set the dwell angle to 22.5 degrees (rather than gapping) ... the motor will run well !!! but if you do not have access to a dwell meter you may find setting the ignition timing statically is better is better than setting the point gap & using a strobe to set the timing. if you need info on statically setting the timing PM me I'll knock something together for you ok so it seems that it was the starter motor. it was blown,i got a new used one from Ebay. put the bike together today,but still wont idle.i put those pod filters on the carbs and im waiting for a 12mm for the vent under the the carbs,now let me ask you something.Why is there oily smoke coming out of that vent under the carbs,if i use the pod filters and leave that vent open(not connected to the carbs)the bike idles but o lot of oily smoke comes out, if i put the stock filter and connect the hose from that vent , it wont idle and when i shut it off oily smoke comes out the left carb or filter and muffler ,this is the side where i get no compression. What do you think??????..
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