philmountains Posted May 24, 2011 Author Posted May 24, 2011 Something to do with ferrets and warm beer? Seriously, it will cost massively more to replace all the gaskets if that bearing only lasts 6 months. Here we go- Were There,s muck there,s Brass and tight as a Duck,s Ass list goes on, yeh get your drift Cynic and the 2 new crank bearing have arrived bit of a bitch of a job to get gearbox side bearing off ,very tight and not 100% what to do refitting as Clymer /haynes reccommends dealer for this one ? prob with getting bearing onto shaft and into casing bit ?freeze crank bearing on, then heat casing ! well no rush as you said. Also tonight was going to have a go at bent fins should I heat up or not ? done a bit of a goggle found a bit of help but ??????? not too sure ?
philmountains Posted May 25, 2011 Author Posted May 25, 2011 Here we go- Were There,s muck there,s Brass and tight as a Duck,s Ass list goes on, yeh get your drift Cynic and the 2 new crank bearing have arrived bit of a bitch of a job to get gearbox side bearing off ,very tight and not 100% what to do refitting as Clymer /haynes reccommends dealer for this one ? prob with getting bearing onto shaft and into casing bit ?freeze crank bearing on, then heat casing ! well no rush as you said. Also tonight was going to have a go at bent fins should I heat up or not ? done a bit of a goggle found a bit of help but ??????? not too sure ? Well the inevitable happened ,whilst bending I got a crack ,god that was a bloody horrible job,and well can you see the difference ?not too sure what to do about it,might ignore got home this morning and stuck crank in freezer at tea time stuck bearing in oven, there you go this was a easy job. and this was before the crank withnew bearing
Moderator Cynic Posted May 25, 2011 Moderator Posted May 25, 2011 Erm don't want to upset you here but! Did you read this bit, (copied from my earlier post) The easiest way is with a heat gun, turn the case so the bearing will drop onto the bench then heat the back of the casing with the heat gun. Ally expands faster than steel and clunk out they drop easy as you like. No physical force on the cases at all.You can use one to put them in too, again heat the cases with the gun to what they call 'iron hot' ( where spit sizzles) and then take the bearings and drop them in. You don't want the bearings ice cold just ambient. Its the crank you want ice cold as that will then slide easily into said bearings. The seals also go in far easier with the cases hot, then once the whole lot is in position let it cool and all the parts will 'grow' together. Very effective method as not using any force means the bearings are really snug and true. Certainly not going to move. You put the bearings in the crankcases, then the seals, and then the crank goes in........... If your finished swearing, did you note which crank bearing is for each side as they are different, and you have fitted them the right way round......... Do i have to tippy toe from the room with extreem caution ducking metal parts and spanners.......
NEV Posted May 25, 2011 Posted May 25, 2011 Yeh Nev them Lumiweld rods are dear, and reckon only good for gluing, no penetration so poss not up to what I need them for . any thoughts on trying to staighten up the fins ? Aye, give Uri Geller a bell, Bladdy 'ell, I didn't realise till just you'd cracked a bloody fin, I'd get a cutting disk on a 4" grinderette, if you can get hold of one, run a 'V'prep into the crack and deffo go the liquid metal route, you know the craic.
Moderator Airhead Posted May 25, 2011 Moderator Posted May 25, 2011 Re the bearing on the crank.. Yeah you should have fitted it in the case by freezing the bearing and warming the case. The crank should then be frozen (not always necessary) and then slid into the bearing. It really shouldnt be so tight a fit between the crank and bearing inner...make sure it is free of rust with some wet/dry paper if it is a little rusty.
philmountains Posted May 26, 2011 Author Posted May 26, 2011 Re the bearing on the crank.. Yeah you should have fitted it in the case by freezing the bearing and warming the case. The crank should then be frozen (not always necessary) and then slid into the bearing. It really shouldnt be so tight a fit between the crank and bearing inner...make sure it is free of rust with some wet/dry paper if it is a little rusty. Hay guys I realy did not know that there was a difference in sides to the bearings,did not see anything diff ? I have done as you said with other bearing ,and another I swapped fom another case, no probs it was this side(generator) which just came out of the case with bearing on, so thought would just reverse, now will heat case and should just pop in I hope ! ,took time to check whats what with bearing,s and seals thought might be missing /wrong ones etc until realised ther are spacer collets at different sizes, Paul that bearing was a tight bitch to get off !!!! Yeh Nev might just go for the lumiweld bit,been looking at tig sets "dear" God steel/stainless/iron is so bloody easy to fix ! I didnt like bending them fins,tried heat, no heat, I reckon it,s allot down to feel and luck you just don,t know how much to give ? made a bar with 2 bit,s of angle same gap as fins to bend with as not to bugger up anything else was why to go. also looking at bore stuck a ring in top last night, not too sure re- measurement to be looking for ? or if need to get rebore do you need pics ? spent spare time last night stripping and cleaning wacker plate carb ,fingers crossed ,weathers turning crap so will poss be back on with bike anyway Thanks again for all your help Phil
Moderator Airhead Posted May 26, 2011 Moderator Posted May 26, 2011 ............also looking at bore stuck a ring in top last night, not too sure re- measurement to be looking for ? or if need to get rebore do you need pics ? ......Phil so info here Phil I think
philmountains Posted May 26, 2011 Author Posted May 26, 2011 so info here Phil I think Thanks Paul ,God I am glad I joined this Forum,great help
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