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SirBieber

A day without an electrical problem on '80 XS650...

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So it all started last summer. At one point the bike was flawless, but then I wanted to replace the gigantic stock tail light for a small sleek one which I did with no problems for a week. Then I started loosing voltage going to the main headlight. Im bad with electrics as you will see, so I did the easy solution and just hardwired the headlight to the tail light, it just turned on when I turned the key.

This was my hard wiring job for the headlight. The red wire with black tape on the end went straight to the tail light for power.

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That worked fine for an entire season. Then in the last couple days (first rides of this season a few months later), I noticed starter, headlight, horn were all going out of whack. So I bought all new bulbs, fuses, and replaced everything. This also worked alright, but then I noticed all the connections in the piece of shit fuse box were in bad shape. Some wires are bending 180 degrees it wasn't a good system and I plan to replace it when I fix this prolem. So I soldered all my fuse box connections.

Here you can see my fuse box. Most rewiring was redone by the previous owner who was an airplane mechanic so manuals/wiring diagrams dont always help me too much.

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I had noticed some buzzing coming from the Reserve Lighting Device and read I didnt need it, so I removed it, connected 2 wires that would still keep the headlight working, and the rest of the wires are still in the connector and left alone.

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Now the soldering worked GREAT. Infact it worked too good in a way. I started smelling smoke. One of the connectors literally just started melting and I have no idea what it is.

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Now I noticed one wire coming out of this mess was yellow, the same color as the original headlight power wire. For fun I connected the original yellow headlight wire back in place instead of the wire I used to hard wire the headlight, and now my headlight works with the original wire again. So now my headlight is back to normal, but this one connector is just frying itself every time I start the engine..... help????

Now when the bike is running, and that connector is frying, I do hear a buzzing coming from the bottom (safety) relay.

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Incase it helps answer any questions, this has a modified Chrylser voltage regulator as seen below.

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Thats the end of my show. If this makes sense to anyone why I'm having this problem please let me know how I can trouble shoot this problem in simple instructions please. Im getting close to finally solving all the problems on this bike I can feel it.

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The bike starts and runs fine when I leave the connector unconnected, but the headlight wont turn on. The brake light still turns on though. so Im guessing it has something to do with the lights? When I tinkered with connector a bit while the bike was running, I hear the buzzing around the relay area it doesn't burn up. If I fiddle with it and the buzzing stops, thats when it starts frying up. If the engine is not running but I turn the key while its connected, all lights turn on and theres no buzzing, no frying.

Already got another connector ready for replacement I just need to know whats causing the melting first.

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Already got another connector ready for replacement I just need to know whats causing the melting first.

you have a ground somewhere, its melting coz its earthing out. As you have a lot of changes made to the wiring it will be hard for us to help.

I wonder if it is the modified chrysler relay?

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you have a ground somewhere, its melting coz its earthing out. As you have a lot of changes made to the wiring it will be hard for us to help.

I wonder if it is the modified chrysler relay?

So you think its a bad ground somewhere? I sanded the ground connection from the modified chrysler voltage regulator, I know thats good.

Theres 6 'prongs' withing the problem connector. Only 2 of them are overheating. I pulled them out, and connected back the other 4. When the 2 overheating prongs are isolated and not touching anything they are not overheating. Everything then works fine except for the buzzing above the relays at another cylindrical component. I'll try and figure out what that is next, and eventually follow those 2 problem prongs and see where they lead.

Why are some wires going to the connector in a cloth wrapping thats a different color than the wire? Just makes tracing them that much harder.

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cylinder thing could be anything, can you not get a manual and describe exactly what you are talking about? :mellow:

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cylinder thing could be anything, can you not get a manual and describe exactly what you are talking about? :mellow:

Its located in its own little chamber sitting perpendicular to the frame of the bike behind the battery on the right side. Its right above the safety relay, I'm looking at the wiring diagram right now and still can't figure it out. I'll take some clear pictures of it soon.

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The bike starts and runs fine when I leave the connector unconnected, but the headlight wont turn on. The brake light still turns on though. so Im guessing it has something to do with the lights? When I tinkered with connector a bit while the bike was running, I hear the buzzing around the relay area it doesn't burn up. If I fiddle with it and the buzzing stops, thats when it starts frying up. If the engine is not running but I turn the key while its connected, all lights turn on and theres no buzzing, no frying.

Already got another connector ready for replacement I just need to know whats causing the melting first.

The wire that is frying appears to be the power supply from the generator ... I also only have knowledge of UK spec which may be slightly different ... could you have soldered 2 wrong wires at the fuse box ? what you describe appears to be the charge from the generator going to the wrong place, but to be fair (& looking at the photos of the wiring) I would suggest you do a total rewire this may be some use you will notice the yellow is totally unused when using a simplified wiring loom. given this starter diagram you could easy add extra live feeds from the ignition switch to run indicator lights, horn, dip/main beam etc. Given a little time you could design & build a loom to run what you need.

if you look at the old loom ... the brown wires tend to power switches etc so you could work from that on your design

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The wire that is frying appears to be the power supply from the generator ... I also only have knowledge of UK spec which may be slightly different ... could you have soldered 2 wrong wires at the fuse box ? what you describe appears to be the charge from the generator going to the wrong place, but to be fair (& looking at the photos of the wiring) I would suggest you do a total rewire this may be some use you will notice the yellow is totally unused when using a simplified wiring loom. given this starter diagram you could easy add extra live feeds from the ignition switch to run indicator lights, horn, dip/main beam etc. Given a little time you could design & build a loom to run what you need.

if you look at the old loom ... the brown wires tend to power switches etc so you could work from that on your design

The buzzing is coming from the safety relay. Its the bottom of the 2 rectangular relays in one of my pictures above. I isolated the 2 prongs that were burning and everything works fine I'm just getting buzzing from this safety relay. I'll read up if I can find a diagnosis from that.

If I can't fix this easily I would entertain the idea of doing a total rewire but I dont know if I trust my know how of electrics enough.

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The wire that is frying appears to be the power supply from the generator ... I also only have knowledge of UK spec which may be slightly different ... could you have soldered 2 wrong wires at the fuse box ? what you describe appears to be the charge from the generator going to the wrong place, but to be fair (& looking at the photos of the wiring) I would suggest you do a total rewire this may be some use you will notice the yellow is totally unused when using a simplified wiring loom. given this starter diagram you could easy add extra live feeds from the ignition switch to run indicator lights, horn, dip/main beam etc. Given a little time you could design & build a loom to run what you need.

if you look at the old loom ... the brown wires tend to power switches etc so you could work from that on your design

I just replaced all the fuses with the ATC type fuses instead of the glass tube fuses. The connector that burnt out is coming from the alternator, the three white wires in that connector burnt out. The white wires trace back to the voltage regulator/rectifier. Is that a wiring problem or a bad regulator?

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I just replaced all the fuses with the ATC type fuses instead of the glass tube fuses. The connector that burnt out is coming from the alternator, the three white wires in that connector burnt out. The white wires trace back to the voltage regulator/rectifier. Is that a wiring problem or a bad regulator?

Look at the diagram supplied ... if you have melted the 3 white wires from the generator it does sort of point to a problem with the VR if it has been wired up incorrectly, but I guess that worked all of last year so it should be wired sound.As you have only changed the rear light before the problem occured (correct me if wrong) is there a chance you have taken a live feed from the wrong side of the VR ? From the photo's shown I can not quite way up how you are rectifing and regulating the voltage supply does the car part have a regulator & rectifer built in or have you just guessed ? This may do the job if the car unit is just a regulator .... given time I could produce a full loom design for you .. all you will need to do is follow the instructions .... but bear in mind it would be UK spec :blink:

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Look at the diagram supplied ... if you have melted the 3 white wires from the generator it does sort of point to a problem with the VR if it has been wired up incorrectly, but I guess that worked all of last year so it should be wired sound.As you have only changed the rear light before the problem occured (correct me if wrong) is there a chance you have taken a live feed from the wrong side of the VR ? From the photo's shown I can not quite way up how you are rectifing and regulating the voltage supply does the car part have a regulator & rectifer built in or have you just guessed ? This may do the job if the car unit is just a regulator .... given time I could produce a full loom design for you .. all you will need to do is follow the instructions .... but bear in mind it would be UK spec :blink:

All I've done electrically prior to the melting was change the tailight, hard wire the headlight (which is back to original wiring now), remove the Reserve lighting device, and solder some fuse connections (and since i've completely replaced the fuse system)

I believe its a '79 chrysler regulator with a Radio shack (common US eletronic/gimic store) brand rectifier. The whole deal is its supposed to do the job at $25 while having a more modern rectifier. I bought the bike with it already installed, so I know nothing about the wiring. I'm sure I'll be able to find a wiring guide online if not on this forum somewhere.

I think im gonna try and replace the melted connector (now that I have a new fuse system) and see if that helps. How would I go about testing the regulator/rectifier before I just melt another connector?

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Got the wire diagram for the modified reg and rectifier. Pulled out all wiring and put it back together as in the diagram. Replaced the melted connector, and the entire fuse system. Works better than ever now but as usual, we'll see how long this lasts.

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