Moderator Airhead Posted April 29, 2011 Moderator Share Posted April 29, 2011 Nothing like confusing the issue is there! That is a totally different set up and not relevent to this model. +1 Canny lad only has 2 pins as he said in his opening post so its just a bog standard diode. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimR Posted April 30, 2011 Share Posted April 30, 2011 +1 Canny lad only has 2 pins as he said in his opening post so its just a bog standard diode. it would have been good to know which model the OP asked about. After looking at the bikes owned I guess this to be an RXS100, which in really is an RS100/125 with CDI & YEIS .. so therefore it runs the 353 unit with also a soak diode in the wiring loom .. which was badly placed ( just under the bottom yoke). With the introduction of CDI there should be a single wire VR supplied from the loom via a yellow wire with a black trace, but from memory the loom did not do that and the original issues with the RS100/125 loom would still apply. but I'm old .. and may be wrong .... let the youngsters who have read the books prove me wrong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canny lad Posted April 30, 2011 Author Share Posted April 30, 2011 it would have been good to know which model the OP asked about. After looking at the bikes owned I guess this to be an RXS100, which in really is an RS100/125 with CDI & YEIS .. so therefore it runs the 353 unit with also a soak diode in the wiring loom .. which was badly placed ( just under the bottom yoke). With the introduction of CDI there should be a single wire VR supplied from the loom via a yellow wire with a black trace, but from memory the loom did not do that and the original issues with the RS100/125 loom would still apply. but I'm old .. and may be wrong .... let the youngsters who have read the books prove me wrong Jim the bike i am on about is the RS125DX... I do have an RXS too but that one is perfect Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimR Posted April 30, 2011 Share Posted April 30, 2011 Jim the bike i am on about is the RS125DX... I do have an RXS too but that one is perfect Ok RS125 .. no problem as I can not see the original problem can you tell me what has gone wrong ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimR Posted April 30, 2011 Share Posted April 30, 2011 Nothing like confusing the issue is there! That is a totally different set up and not relevent to this model. Glad you know what model we are talking about .. there appears to be no notification to that ... so what is confusing ... my reply or the thread ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canny lad Posted April 30, 2011 Author Share Posted April 30, 2011 ok basically when th eengine is running the voltage reaching the battery and the rest of the electrics is erratic and between 6 and 11v.. neesless to say as soon as i put a bulb in no matter where it is the bulb blows... the old battery was totally knackered but i dare not connect th enew in case the problem causes that battery to boil too.. I have just checked the engine number and it matches the frame number so its original.. the wiring from the generator matches colour to colour at the multiplug...where it goes from there i havent checked as its bloody freezing in my yard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted April 30, 2011 Moderator Share Posted April 30, 2011 ... so what is confusing ... my reply or the thread ? your reply Quote it well depends on the type of rectifier you are looking at... a good old 6 volt one is simple basically a zenier diode as the 70's evolved some of the 12v rectifiers also served the purpose of voltage regulation, which then added more diodes to the unit to turn the AC output from the generator to DC .. I.E cutting the wave form in half, then passing the resultant current to another diode which managed the supply to the battery (this diode went O/C if too much current was applied and stopped battery charging). 6V systems just tended to boil the battery (hence the phrase rectum fryer as most batteries were placed under the saddle), but later 6V systems added extra diode to make sure the battery did not boil You start with it well depends on the type of rectifier you are looking at He said it has 2 pins yet you go off on a tangent of weird and wonderful voltage regulation...can this really be done with 2 pin connection then? In my experience regulation needs a further connection down to chassis...but i'm young so maybe i'm wrong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted April 30, 2011 Moderator Share Posted April 30, 2011 since this thread has 'morphed' into one of voltage regulation, perhaps you might read this one Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canny lad Posted April 30, 2011 Author Share Posted April 30, 2011 hhmm interestin... i read the thread and sounds remarkably familir... maybe i should connect new batter and put all bulbs in and see what happens... just dont wanna fry everything again but if meter readings prove too high voltage i can knock it off... musgt admit its a dodgy system when if one bulb goes it increses voltage to others... still will give ago and see what happens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted April 30, 2011 Moderator Share Posted April 30, 2011 hhmm interestin... i read the thread and sounds remarkably familir... maybe i should connect new batter and put all bulbs in and see what happens... just dont wanna fry everything again but if meter readings prove too high voltage i can knock it off... musgt admit its a dodgy system when if one bulb goes it increses voltage to others... still will give ago and see what happens Give it a go with caution if you like but thats your choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canny lad Posted April 30, 2011 Author Share Posted April 30, 2011 Give it a go with caution if you like but thats your choice. its the only way i can find out.. you need all bulbs connected to get atrue reading... will start with no lights just idiot lights as thats all that would work in position 1 anyway... its somehwere to start and if a short run wont harm the battery... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted April 30, 2011 Moderator Share Posted April 30, 2011 its the only way i can find out.. you need all bulbs connected to get atrue reading... will start with no lights just idiot lights as thats all that would work in position 1 anyway... its somehwere to start and if a short run wont harm the battery... If it were me I would have the £20 6v regulator in mind too, connected to the AC side of the rectifier (white), perhaps speedshop will comment? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Yamha-DT-100-125-175-250-400-XT-New-Regulator-QR498-/390207355387?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item5ada2bb9fb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canny lad Posted May 1, 2011 Author Share Posted May 1, 2011 oh i am still thinking about it mate,,,, just wanna make sure i spose that if i connect one as you say that it will cover everything.. Battery not overcharging and bulbs not blowing etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimR Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 ok basically when th eengine is running the voltage reaching the battery and the rest of the electrics is erratic and between 6 and 11v.. neesless to say as soon as i put a bulb in no matter where it is the bulb blows... the old battery was totally knackered but i dare not connect th enew in case the problem causes that battery to boil too.. I have just checked the engine number and it matches the frame number so its original.. the wiring from the generator matches colour to colour at the multiplug...where it goes from there i havent checked as its bloody freezing in my yard Sounds like a broken white wire to me .... cut the loom back where the plastic bit joins the tape (below the head stock) it was a very common fault with the RS series Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canny lad Posted May 1, 2011 Author Share Posted May 1, 2011 Sounds like a broken white wire to me .... cut the loom back where the plastic bit joins the tape (below the head stock) it was a very common fault with the RS series JIm is that the white wire from the recifier?.. i will try it with the multimeter and see if it has continuety...i take it you mean where all the wires in the main loom head upwards towards the headlight? checked the white rec wire al the way through to the generator and all ok. red wire to battery is also spot on.. put battery on and started it with the idiot bulbs in place.. 6.5v on idle and revved it slightly but not too much and didnt go much above 7v... didnt wanna rev it too highly initially but will try that when my neighbours are out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimR Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 JIm is that the white wire from the recifier?.. i will try it with the multimeter and see if it has continuety...i take it you mean where all the wires in the main loom head upwards towards the headlight? checked the white rec wire al the way through to the generator and all ok. red wire to battery is also spot on.. put battery on and started it with the idiot bulbs in place.. 6.5v on idle and revved it slightly but not too much and didnt go much above 7v... didnt wanna rev it too highly initially but will try that when my neighbours are out The white & red wires also run up to the ignition switch & light switch which in turn may give you false readings via a multimeter depending on how the lights on/off & ignition switch are set .. it is possible to have a good circuit between the wires until you toggle a switch ... then when load is applied to the charging circuit direct voltage is applied to the bulbs as the broken wire allows mag output to them rather than running through the charging circuit. Look at the wiring loom running below the bottom yoke .. if the plastic section is cracked (or maybe repaired) there does stand a chance of a broken wire .... with the cost of bulbs (as they go bang, but a with a brill white light) I would investigate it .... Other things to look at are the ignition switch .. has it gone a bit ape ... so going O/S when you turn it to 'lights on' position the same is true of the lights on switch (if fitted) on the left hand switch gear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canny lad Posted May 1, 2011 Author Share Posted May 1, 2011 The white & red wires also run up to the ignition switch & light switch which in turn may give you false readings via a multimeter depending on how the lights on/off & ignition switch are set .. it is possible to have a good circuit between the wires until you toggle a switch ... then when load is applied to the charging circuit direct voltage is applied to the bulbs as the broken wire allows mag output to them rather than running through the charging circuit. Look at the wiring loom running below the bottom yoke .. if the plastic section is cracked (or maybe repaired) there does stand a chance of a broken wire .... with the cost of bulbs (as they go bang, but a with a brill white light) I would investigate it .... Other things to look at are the ignition switch .. has it gone a bit ape ... so going O/S when you turn it to 'lights on' position the same is true of the lights on switch (if fitted) on the left hand switch gear the ignition switch is buggered or shud i say has been screwdrivered in the past... i only used the ignition on position 1 as i havent any bulbs in the lighting side of things at all after they all popped last time... i checked the white wire too the ignition and back down the loom to the genny multiplug.. i did it with the battery off and igntion in position 1 again and all seemed ok... never checked the switch gear though... i will check out the loom under the bottom yoke tomorrow as didnt have time today Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canny lad Posted May 8, 2011 Author Share Posted May 8, 2011 Just a quick update.. i changed the loom yesterday and after sorting out the spaghetti in the headlight and fitting new bulbs front back to front as well as a new rectifier i checked that all the bulbs worked which they did.. Started the bike up and although never caned it revs wise i did rev it abit and the bulbs remain intact... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YPVS TONE Posted May 8, 2011 Share Posted May 8, 2011 Remember on the old type 6V bikes with direct lighting you have to have a good battery and in circuit otherwise you will get the problem of bulb blowing and excessive voltage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canny lad Posted May 13, 2011 Author Share Posted May 13, 2011 Remember on the old type 6V bikes with direct lighting you have to have a good battery and in circuit otherwise you will get the problem of bulb blowing and excessive voltage. yeah i understand it now Tone...with th eold battery the genny was throwing as much voltage out as it could to try and top the knacered battery up which in turn overloaded the electrics is that correct?... with a new one on it doesnt need anywhere near as much so it calms it down to the correct level Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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