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Rectofier question


Canny lad
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My new one arrived today and it looks nothing like the old one so it must be a newer type... anyway as i am not exactly sure of the wiring what would happen if i wired it the wrong way?... its only got 2 pins on it so its 50 50 if i get it right or wrong

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A rectifier is a series of diodes which allow current in one direction only-I dont think you can damage it, I'm sure an expert (Speedshop) will be along shortly to rectify this :huh:

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I lke a bit of AC DC talk in this forum :thumb:

right i see what you mean.. so basically it will work or it wont... and if it doesnt swap the wires around

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is there a diagram on it, like a triangle with a line across one of the points?

nothing at all mate just the code number and 300V on it...

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the wires are red and white mate and the rectifier does have male and female connectors but the harness has bene butchered so i have no idea if the previous owner wired the rectifier up right or not as its hard wired into the harness...

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the wires are red and white mate and the rectifier does have male and female connectors but the harness has bene butchered so i have no idea if the previous owner wired the rectifier up right or not as its hard wired into the harness...

I reckon the red goes to the male connector of the rectifier.

Have you got a multimeter?

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When you get no reading on the multi meter, note which terminal the red lead is on. Connect this terminal of the rectifer to the lead that runs to the positive terminal of the battery on the bike.

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A rectifier is a series of diodes which allow current in one direction only-I dont think you can damage it, I'm sure an expert (Speedshop) will be along shortly to rectify this :huh:

it well depends on the type of rectifier you are looking at... a good old 6 volt one is simple basically a zenier diode as the 70's evolved some of the 12v rectifiers also served the purpose of voltage regulation, which then added more diodes to the unit to turn the AC output from the generator to DC .. I.E cutting the wave form in half, then passing the resultant current to another diode which managed the supply to the battery (this diode went O/C if too much current was applied and stopped battery charging). 6V systems just tended to boil the battery (hence the phrase rectum fryer as most batteries were placed under the saddle), but later 6V systems added extra diode to make sure the battery did not boil

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it well depends on the type of rectifier you are looking at... a good old 6 volt one is simple basically a zenier diode as the 70's evolved some of the 12v rectifiers also served the purpose of voltage regulation, which then added more diodes to the unit to turn the AC output from the generator to DC .. I.E cutting the wave form in half, then passing the resultant current to another diode which managed the supply to the battery (this diode went O/C if too much current was applied and stopped battery charging). 6V systems just tended to boil the battery (hence the phrase rectum fryer as most batteries were placed under the saddle), but later 6V systems added extra diode to make sure the battery did not boil

nice to see you back Jim !

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it well depends on the type of rectifier you are looking at... a good old 6 volt one is simple basically a zenier diode as the 70's evolved some of the 12v rectifiers also served the purpose of voltage regulation, which then added more diodes to the unit to turn the AC output from the generator to DC .. I.E cutting the wave form in half, then passing the resultant current to another diode which managed the supply to the battery (this diode went O/C if too much current was applied and stopped battery charging). 6V systems just tended to boil the battery (hence the phrase rectum fryer as most batteries were placed under the saddle), but later 6V systems added extra diode to make sure the battery did not boil

Nothing like confusing the issue is there! That is a totally different set up and not relevent to this model.

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