burton500 Posted April 11, 2011 Posted April 11, 2011 Ok then, having completely refurbed the DT, got it mot'd, I'm now rediscovering my youth bouncing down the green lanes. Yumps, berms and streams, I'm still cocking them all up. However, something went wrong with the electrics yesterday, in that there aren't any. Battery has a full charge, and the main fuse is fine. Engine starts no problem, but lights, horn, indicators and instrument lights are completely dead. All connectors were corrosion free following the rebuild. I guess something has come loose somewhere. Any suggestions on where to start? Any help gratefully accepted. Lee
Moderator Airhead Posted April 11, 2011 Moderator Posted April 11, 2011 Working off memory Lee and without the benefit of a diagram...The battery feed (Red) goes to the ignition switch and gets switched when the key is on to the Brown wires. Disconnect and check the connectors in the headlamp, make sure you have 6v arriving at the Red (socket)and generally do some metering around the ignition switch, like check the switch closes between Red and Brown using a continuity test (200 Ohms range)
burton500 Posted April 11, 2011 Author Posted April 11, 2011 , make sure you have 6v arriving at the Red (socket) Right then, 3 volts are going missing somewhere. There are only 3 volts arriving on the red wire in the headlamp shell. Weird. Would the rectifier cause this? Also, is there supposed to be an earth off the battery?
Moderator Airhead Posted April 11, 2011 Moderator Posted April 11, 2011 Right then, 3 volts are going missing somewhere. There are only 3 volts arriving on the red wire in the headlamp shell. Weird. Would the rectifier cause this? Also, is there supposed to be an earth off the battery? Try placing you meter negative on the battery negative, and also at other earth points around the black loom wires and the coil ground lug. See if the measly 3v is repeatable. Yes the black wire on the battery negative goes to chassis (earth). Also try unplugging the red wire from the rectifier...still 3v. If the best you can get is 3v you might as well strap it to your arm and run your watch off it
burton500 Posted April 13, 2011 Author Posted April 13, 2011 Got there in the end - thanks for the help OG. It turned out there was a partial break in the red live wire somewhere between the rectifier and the conector in the headlamp. Although the reading was 3v, as soon as a load was put on the circuit it went to nil. Anyway, I've run a new wire from the rectifier to the connector in the headlamp, and all is well.
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