fli Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 Ive got some nasty looking rust on my downpipes, instead of replacing em im thinking of cleaning off the rust and getting some exhaust wrap off ebay, just wondering what kind of length id be needing? Would this be enough? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/high-temperature-exhaust-wrap-wrapping-custom-race-bike-/310303603517?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item483f893b3d Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leatherat Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 I don't know you're bike, but I've been reading BSH recently and someone in there mentioned 25ft for a triple with shorties on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fli Posted April 10, 2011 Author Share Posted April 10, 2011 Id probably be better off going for the 10ft roll then, Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulwhite Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 Id probably be better off going for the 10ft roll then, Cheers. use 15ft roll as you will have about 3 foot spare on that oh and get some high temp paint (something rated to over 600*c ) its what iv done to mine and it seems to hold back the rust! ......been in the elements for about a year now with no signes of rust yet that front pipe is a bugger to keep rust free! oh and check the "box" under the exhaust for rust as thats the 1st place ul get a hole! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fli Posted April 11, 2011 Author Share Posted April 11, 2011 The box on mine is in rough shape, no holes yet though. Paul do you know where air filter is on sachs? i think its under tank but im not sure. Have you got any pics of exhaust wraps on your bikes mate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulwhite Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 The box on mine is in rough shape, no holes yet though. Paul do you know where air filter is on sachs? i think its under tank but im not sure. Have you got any pics of exhaust wraps on your bikes mate? i havent got any pics no... and the filter is under the tank in a box on the right hand side. if your thinking of trying to tune it dont bother my freind, iv done everything you can think of to that bike and its just not worth it, as the engine cant take it, so if your going to mod something id sugest you just do cosmetic stuff. mine is sat in the back yard with a blown engine .....but once iv found a good engine to put in it, its becoming a proper streetfighter. but iv got my hands full with my bobber project at the mo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulwhite Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 just seen ur post in the workshop section.. the sachs roadster is a rare bike in the uk and i think its only me and you that have one lol well on here anyway. so il help u out a bit if you take the seat off ( look under the rear light/wheel arch, take the plastic panel off, then undo the 1 bolt)lift back of seat and pull back undo the bolt on the tank where ur balls would go, then the the bolt at the front of the tank. take the pipe off the fuel tap, and there is a black breather pipe that goes on a tie wrap on the frame near the engine sprocket, take it off the tie wrap. then dis connect the horn! lift the back of the tank 1st then the front (put it back on front 1st! then back) you should see a big black box, look at the right of it and you will see about 6 or 8 screws, undo them then slowly take it off ur air filter is inside, its held on by a spring with a black bit on it. either clean or replace with the same one as any other will require new jets in the carb. i know a good exhaust mod but you need to be handy with a welder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fli Posted April 11, 2011 Author Share Posted April 11, 2011 just seen ur post in the workshop section.. the sachs roadster is a rare bike in the uk and i think its only me and you that have one lol well on here anyway. so il help u out a bit if you take the seat off ( look under the rear light/wheel arch, take the plastic panel off, then undo the 1 bolt)lift back of seat and pull back undo the bolt on the tank where ur balls would go, then the the bolt at the front of the tank. take the pipe off the fuel tap, and there is a black breather pipe that goes on a tie wrap on the frame near the engine sprocket, take it off the tie wrap. then dis connect the horn! lift the back of the tank 1st then the front (put it back on front 1st! then back) you should see a big black box, look at the right of it and you will see about 6 or 8 screws, undo them then slowly take it off ur air filter is inside, its held on by a spring with a black bit on it. either clean or replace with the same one as any other will require new jets in the carb. i know a good exhaust mod but you need to be handy with a welder Bloody hell! Wasnt expecting it to be that hard to take the air filter out and clean it, Im not going too mod the engine, i think it pulls good as it is itll do 85 down hill and about 75 on flat, ive put renthals on mine and it looks great i think, have a look at my pics in the introduction section, Ive just drilled my exhaust is that the mod your reffering too? or is there a better one? i can just about weld lol learnt at college Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulwhite Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 Bloody hell! Wasnt expecting it to be that hard to take the air filter out and clean it, Im not going too mod the engine, i think it pulls good as it is itll do 85 down hill and about 75 on flat, ive put renthals on mine and it looks great i think, have a look at my pics in the introduction section, Ive just drilled my exhaust is that the mod your reffering too? or is there a better one? i can just about weld lol learnt at college Cheers ha ha trust me m8 thats not hard!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (soz for all the "!" but honest its piss easy) it just looks allot in writing, but ur looking at 10 min of work (i can do it in 5 min lol) the hole mod is the best one for cost vs effort but no iv done a single muffler mod using the original exhaust, it involves cutting the top muffler off and the "box" then cut the baffle out and weld a plate to cover the hole and a connecting pipe for your rear headder, makes it a hell of allot louder plus it has 1 exhaust as to bars i just got a bit of 22mm pipe for mine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fli Posted April 11, 2011 Author Share Posted April 11, 2011 Got any pictures? i were debating whether to go down to exhaust uk and see if they could convert it too one and put me a decent Muffler on it, but ive read there very tempermental when it comes to re jetting? Something like this would look great. http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://www.proppa.com/ekmps/shops/weaver/images/proppa-triumph-motorbike-exhaust-motogp-stubby-end-can-%255B2%255D-7684-p.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.proppa.com/proppa-triumph-motorbike-exhaust-motogp-stubby-end-can-7684-p.asp&usg=__6LVk7mzU1spD6meB8a4RD_Gqe14=&h=756&w=1010&sz=129&hl=en&start=3&zoom=1&tbnid=7pufEmyrWj5GHM:&tbnh=115&tbnw=153&ei=QVmjTZz-EcOu8QOY1tyoAw&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dmotorbike%2Bendcan%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26sa%3DN%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-GB:official%26biw%3D800%26bih%3D402%26tbm%3Disch0%2C228&um=1&itbs=1&iact=rc&dur=228&oei=IlmjTaipMIuq8APHz4CoAw&page=2&ndsp=8&ved=1t:429,r:0,s:3&tx=61&ty=44&biw=800&bih=402 Sorry for long link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulwhite Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 yeah it would make it look better.....but your looking at 400 quid to get one made (well when i looked into it, thats what i got quoted for a stainless steel double walled under seat exhaust) and you can get hold of some slash cut performance exhausts for 300! and you would need to play with the carb...which is a big job! the engine is extremely tempermental! it took me 6 days in total to get the engine to run properly....and that was just with an air filter mod!!!! the exhaust isnt too bad you just need a bigger main jet which is quite easy on the sachs as you can access everything. but i found that the piston rings wear down faster plus the crank isnt strong enough for any decent performance mods so its a case of balancing out mods to cons and at the end of the day any mods done to the bike are going to put strain on the engine which can potentially make it go pop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fli Posted April 12, 2011 Author Share Posted April 12, 2011 I wouldnt bother doing anything to try and increase the performance, it goes well as it is. But i do think an exhast like the one above would look great but if thats gone knacker me piston rings/put more strain on the engine then i dont really think its worth it, id rather keep me 400 quid and put it towards me test. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulwhite Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 top man! well i would recommend an oil change if you havent done one already, and a high flow oil filter would help the engine out loads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fli Posted April 12, 2011 Author Share Posted April 12, 2011 What oil would you recommend? ive got some cheap 10W40 in shed. Can i pick oil filter up easily or will i have too buy it online is it easy enough to change? sorry for all questions just not too sure what im doing with it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulwhite Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 What oil would you recommend? ive got some cheap 10W40 in shed. Can i pick oil filter up easily or will i have too buy it online is it easy enough to change? sorry for all questions just not too sure what im doing with it get some good 10w40 like castrol or something similar, oil filter....look on www.wemoto.com if you cant find one when u put in sachs roadster 125, try xv 125. there quite good for parts and it normally takes a couple of days to get to u. to change ... its a bit tricky..... for some reason they put the frame in the way of the sump plug so just try and see if you can get it open. if you cant then you will have to undo the engine brackets on the right hand side and slide the engine out a bit so you can get to it. as to the filter look on the right side of the engine and you will see a sticky out round bit on the casing (bottom right) with 3 screws on it, it will have a round sticker on it covering up the yamaha stamp. undo the 3 bolts and pull (might be worth having a rag handy as its a bit messy) the filter is in there, but take note which way round its in. jut pop the new one in and put the cover back on. if you do an oil change then best to drain the engine over night, fill with cheep oil, run for a week then drain again, replace filter, then fill with the good stuff. it makes sure that there is no crappy oil in there and that its all good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fli Posted April 12, 2011 Author Share Posted April 12, 2011 Cheers for advice mate ill get that done next time i get paid. What did you do to your then too blow engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulwhite Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 Cheers for advice mate ill get that done next time i get paid. What did you do to your then too blow engine well.....i put a pod filter on and straight through exhaust, then re- jetted the carb got more power out of it for a while then the piston rings went so i got hold of some xvs 125 piston rings (had a spare engine in the shed) put them on to find that it wasnt the rings but the crank. so i got a new crank and split the engine. put the new crank in and didnt set the timing properly so after about 10 min of goin up and down the road the head went.... so its now sat in the garden lol. the rest of the bike is in nearly new nick as i spent a small fortune on new parts but iv given up on the engine.....gonna get a decent 2 stroke to stick in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fli Posted April 12, 2011 Author Share Posted April 12, 2011 if you dont need the clutch cable mate id buy it of you, mines snapped so im using a repair kit at the moment, as for engine swap i were thinking about putting a 250 xvs in mine but tbh its not worth the hassle although i was told it is a straight swap. ( what colours yours? ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulwhite Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 if you dont need the clutch cable mate id buy it of you, mines snapped so im using a repair kit at the moment, as for engine swap i were thinking about putting a 250 xvs in mine but tbh its not worth the hassle although i was told it is a straight swap. ( what colours yours? ) the xvs 250 engine is a rare engine in the uk so if owt went u will struggle to find parts. i did a nice white with a red/black tribal design...looked good but i had to paint it blue for the mot was a rush job so used hamer blue and a brush lol looks well tacky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fli Posted April 14, 2011 Author Share Posted April 14, 2011 lol What engine are yu thinking off putting in yours? A dt engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts