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NE0

DT 175 MX 12volt conversion

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And here's the same circuit with the modification. Note nothing else has been touched.

dtwd2.jpg

Edited by NE0

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Thanks NEO

We are now running and offf for a blue slip tomorrow morning.

Does your bike have AC or DC to the headlamp? Mine has AC still but a 12volt H4 55/60 watt lamp is working.

I have made other little changes on the way such as a DRL/LED blinker setup, LED instrument lights. The telltale on the blinkers needed to come out, will modify that light socket once we get rego sorted.

The old girl lives again.

Good Riding Brett

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Good to hear you're up and running Brett, Nice one.

As regards to the output at the headlamp, Here's a little tip for you especially if you don't understand electronics etc.

Batteries produce DC wheres a Generator will produce AC. (I know some bright spark may pipe up and say about Invertors and Commutators, which are generally expensive devices to get AC from a Battery and DC from a generator BUT you wont find these on a little DT motorbike!!!)

As you're working in the headlamp shell you will find both AC and DC. However, only the headlamp bulb is fed from the generator so it's the only one which is AC. All the other wires will supply DC from the Battery. And to supply the headlamp with AC the generator needs to be running. Turn off the engine and the AC stops....the headlamp goes out!

Hope it helps,

Well Done mate!

Edited by NE0

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Hello, 

Glad to see this conversion still gets some use out of it, I'm actually looking to rewire my RS100S to 12v this year so glad that this is still up.

wiring is basically the same.

Green or Green+Red to white to charge

Yellow to headlamp

From what I understand the DTs have a wire that comes off from the switch to the regulator as well as to the headlight? It's the only part I don't understand in the guide

Pic of my wiring just because.

9iUTbaO.jpg

 

Also looking at removing the yellow wire and running the headlight off the battery since the other lights do. Might just terminate the yellow wire straight to the regulator since I can't see it doing harm 

Edit: The other options are using a 3 phase regulator as this will either use a smoother output or more voltage to regulate (which requires a regulator with a better max wattage rating) unsure on what but if I had to guess I'd say its smoother, final option is a single phase rec/regulator with a capacitor.

Edited by rentaspoon

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Quote

From what I understand the DTs have a wire that comes off from the switch to the regulator as well as to the headlight? It's the only part I don't understand in the guide

Hi there Rentaspoon,

I thought I wrote it quite clearly but let me recap:-

dtwd2.jpg

look at the key positions marked I, II and III          *****READ THE ROWs ACROSS****

key position I;  The red wire goes from the battery and is switched to the brown (This goes to the indicators, brake light and horn) The headlight is not lit up on this key position.

Look at the GEN. the white wire (charging wire)  goes to the reg/rec and then onto the battery to charge it via the red wire the other white wire comes to the switch. We know from the first page posts that the OUTPUT of the generator on the WHITE wire is anything from 11volts to 26 volts (depending on revs) This amount of voltage would fry the battery. So it is connected BACK to the reg/rec via the YELLOW wire (on the right side of the pic) to 'clip' it and reduce the current going to the battery to charge it

This will cause the reg/rec to heat up and the fins help dissipate this heat thereby cooling it down.

 

Key position II:  The red wire goes from the battery and is switched to the brown( doing the same as above) and is also switched to the red/blue wire (This  ADDS the tail light and pilot light)

The GEN white wire is still connected to the battery via the reg/rec BUT the white wire which goes to the switch NOW does nothing because in switch position II it is NOT connected. (The battery is still charging but the output on the white wire has been reduced because the lighting coil inside the generator is now being used)

So now look at  the YELLOW wire from the GEN ( on the left)  This carries the output of the lighting coil to the headlight. It is switched to YELLOW/RED wire to run the headlight. BUT we also know from the first page post the the OUTPUT on this yellow wire is anything from 6v to 16v depending on the revs. Prior to the conversion the headlight only required 6 volt. ALL excess voltage was reduced by reg/rec on the YELLOW (right side wire) The reg/rec clips the output to 6v otherwise the output would blow the bulb.

Using a different 12v reg/rec, this clips the voltage to 12volt enabling the 12 volt bulb to be used in the headlamp instead of 6v The right side YELLOW wire is still connected to the reg/rec and still heats up as above.

Unfortunately, the generator STILL produces 6 volt at low revs, because the generator has not been altered. therefore at low revs the 12vot  bulb will glow dimly on 6v output. It only glows brightly once the generator produces 11volts plus.

 

Does that help?

Edited by NE0

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OK I think I understand, both my wiring goes to the switch first whereas yours goes to the regulator instead. 

Pretty sure I can figure it out now

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