Moderator drewpy Posted March 12, 2011 Moderator Posted March 12, 2011 Anyone know how these work? got them in Maplins and wanted to use them in my tracker for high bean and neutral. would need to alternate between colours or be a mix of colour if both on at the same time. any electricla gurus out there (Its not often i ask for help) schematic from Maplin site
up.yours Posted March 12, 2011 Posted March 12, 2011 i had them on my car when i was younger ,, the police told me not to take the piss, and remove them..
Speedshop Posted March 12, 2011 Posted March 12, 2011 I was going to say..... I'd work out a resistor for 14.7 volts and place it between the centre connection (2) and earth. Then connect the feed from the hi beam to one side and from the neutral the other...... The big flaw in that is that the hi beam works when a voltage is applied - the neutral works when you apply an earth to a live feed.......... Which means you'd only ever see a hi beam indication if you were in neutral. So unless you used a relay where the bikes neutral circuit operated the relay control coil that switched a live feed on to the LED when in neutral, it ain't going to work. The other thing is don't these show 3 colours? 1 for each side of the diode and the combined colour when both sides are powered?
barkwindjammer Posted March 12, 2011 Posted March 12, 2011 Some thin speaker wire and some messing about and I'm sure you could get it figured out Drewpy ?
Moderator drewpy Posted March 12, 2011 Author Moderator Posted March 12, 2011 I was going to say..... I'd work out a resistor for 14.7 volts and place it between the centre connection (2) and earth. Then connect the feed from the hi beam to one side and from the neutral the other...... The big flaw in that is that the hi beam works when a voltage is applied - the neutral works when you apply an earth to a live feed.......... Which means you'd only ever see a hi beam indication if you were in neutral. So unless you used a relay where the bikes neutral circuit operated the relay control coil that switched a live feed on to the LED when in neutral, it ain't going to work. The other thing is don't these show 3 colours? 1 for each side of the diode and the combined colour when both sides are powered? def 2 colours as the pikkies only showed red and green, the colours can be combined to see amber. gutted it won't work as is, I'll keep scouting the t'internet for something that will work cheers for the input fellas ( not kevs though )
up.yours Posted March 12, 2011 Posted March 12, 2011 i was about to tell you how to,, but you can bugger off now...
barkwindjammer Posted March 12, 2011 Posted March 12, 2011 def 2 colours as the pikkies only showed red and green, the colours can be combined to see amber. gutted it won't work as is, I'll keep scouting the t'internet for something that will work cheers for the input fellas ( not kevs though ) yebbut, red and green makes brown, you dont want a brown light on your dash Drew, you'll get pointed at in the local supermarket
Paulwhite Posted March 12, 2011 Posted March 12, 2011 i dont see how it wouldnt work.... the neutral light needs a positive and negative as with the high beam (bulb) so in theory you could rout some new wire (positive)from the bulb connector to the colour you need, then run the positive from the neutral to the other colour... on the same l,e,d, then rout all the earth wires back to earth. id say best thing to do is use the connectors to hook up the led (then ur not cutting any loom) and see if it works.
Paulwhite Posted March 12, 2011 Posted March 12, 2011 i dont see how it wouldnt work.... the neutral light needs a positive and negative as with the high beam (bulb) so in theory you could rout some new wire (positive)from the bulb connector to the colour you need, then run the positive from the neutral to the other colour... on the same l,e,d, then rout all the earth wires back to earth. id say best thing to do is use the connectors to hook up the led (then ur not cutting any loom) and see if it works. ahh iv just re-read the post by speedshop... (forget what i said it wouldnt work) you could do with an extra earth on the l,e,d lol
Moderator Cynic Posted March 12, 2011 Moderator Posted March 12, 2011 TBH the only thing that i am not keen on with your tracker is them lights. They look messy and overcomplicated and spoil the front. For my money i'd have one on each bar, bit like DT 175 indicators. You could then have one idiot light in each light body, tint the lenses in the warning lamps and unless there on you wouldn't see em. Am i ducking rocks now?
2 Wheels Posted March 12, 2011 Posted March 12, 2011 Am i ducking rocks now? That last rock just missed ya
Moderator drewpy Posted March 12, 2011 Author Moderator Posted March 12, 2011 TBH the only thing that i am not keen on with your tracker is them lights. They look messy and overcomplicated and spoil the front. For my money i'd have one on each bar, bit like DT 175 indicators. You could then have one idiot light in each light body, tint the lenses in the warning lamps and unless there on you wouldn't see em. Am i ducking rocks now? Nah, there not fixed yet, just playing again, BUT, I've seen about 4 bikes with my setup over the last 3 days and I'm wondering if they've copied me I'm wiring the bike from scratch so i need to know what's going where before I get me hot irons out for Kevs tattoo!
Moderator drewpy Posted March 13, 2011 Author Moderator Posted March 13, 2011 here's a circuit, what do you think?
Moderator Cynic Posted March 13, 2011 Moderator Posted March 13, 2011 Nah, there not fixed yet, just playing again, BUT, I've seen about 4 bikes with my setup over the last 3 days and I'm wondering if they've copied me I think they have more likely copied KTM, they have stacked lights. here's a circuit, what do you think? You need voltage correction both sides of the diode, it will only take maybe 3v reverse and wont want more than 5v foreward. The challenge and i'm on my limits here with electronics is the fact that LED's need a fairly constant voltage and bikes just don't generate it, especially at the headlight. You need an electronics man, unless you settle for 12v led's that dont change colour you just have 2 instead. Can you not mount something in the face of the speedo?
Moderator drewpy Posted March 13, 2011 Author Moderator Posted March 13, 2011 You need voltage correction both sides of the diode, it will only take maybe 3v reverse and wont want more than 5v foreward. The challenge and i'm on my limits here with electronics is the fact that LED's need a fairly constant voltage and bikes just don't generate it, especially at the headlight. You need an electronics man, unless you settle for 12v led's that dont change colour you just have 2 instead. Can you not mount something in the face of the speedo? I though diodes only permitted one way current! I did post this on an electronics site but had this schematic quickly drawn for me. the tri-color leds are basically 2 LEDs inside a cover and when both are lit, make another colour. maybe need something in there to stabilize voltage both ways! putting "something in my speedo" would be LEDs as its a mini one
Moderator Cynic Posted March 13, 2011 Moderator Posted March 13, 2011 I though diodes only permitted one way current! I did post this on an electronics site but had this schematic quickly drawn for me. the tri-color leds are basically 2 LEDs inside a cover and when both are lit, make another colour. maybe need something in there to stabilize voltage both ways! "something in my speedo" its a mini one Unfortunate Yep, they do only permit one way current. Problem being that if there is enough juice the other way you can force through it and the unit will go off like a tiny blasting cap and the problem with the bi colour things is that they run at around 5 volts so your looking at a little black box of bits and pieces to correct the voltage thats all. The specific 12v ones work fine on a bike, i have one on my TDR for main beam as it happens
Moderator drewpy Posted March 13, 2011 Author Moderator Posted March 13, 2011 so I need 12v tri-colour LED's here's an RD with those lamps on
barkwindjammer Posted March 13, 2011 Posted March 13, 2011 As the LED's in the diagram (drawn by your new friends on the electronics forum ) are wired in parallel, wont they then just 'draw' power relative to their rating ? I think Speedshop is the man to stick with as he messes with this stuff every day
pilninggas Posted March 13, 2011 Posted March 13, 2011 The circuit ^^^ looks just the ticket i'd just stick a 330ohm resistor (x2) in series with the led anodes, i've never had a problem ballasting LEDs like this. If your concerned about the LED flickering a 1000microfarad (uF) electrolytic capacitor connected between the resistor/led-connection and the cathode of the LED should provide enough smoothing. Make sure it's rated for at least 40v (50V or 63V would be better and probably easier to get). - maplin should have some. Drewpy, procede with caution, as I am thinking this from my knowledge and not from direct testing.
barkwindjammer Posted March 13, 2011 Posted March 13, 2011 I just couldn't remember the name of them,,,yes electrolytic capacitors are another thing that makes a terrific bang when it goes off
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