Posted October 30, 200420 yr Hi, at first you can think and say that I'm fool or crazy or lunatic but I'm planning to create the most coolest T-Ace what has been. Full carbon fibre fairings made look a like YZR M1 model. Also fuel tank will be made from carbon and kevlar. I had rip off all fairings and tail also so fun starts soon. I have calculate litle bit and only materil cost will be around 850 Eur. Also some thought to build airbox with ra-mair system (carbon)... I will post some project photos to here at time to time.
November 2, 200420 yr Sounds like a cool project. A word of unsolicited advice, though - use a steel or aluminum tank or fuel cell with a carbon/kevlar cover. Steel and aluminum will both deform a LOT before breaking. A carbon or fiberglass tank has a much greater propensity to smash or shatter. I'm sorry, I can't find references now, but since carbon tanks have been allowed in some top-level racing categories, fireball/explosion type failures have become much more common. On the street, I think it's a bad risk. Looking forward to seeing some pics, though!
November 2, 200420 yr Also a carbon fibre tank won't stay fuel tight for long so you'll end up having to make another one.
November 2, 200420 yr Author Carbon fibre is resist for bending and streching but does not hadle sharp shock. Kevlar insted can take guite hard sharp pulse on it. Epox what I'm planning use is flexible and also gasoline proof. Also planning to use rubber linside on tank (it will be sprayed to tank). I know all risks what will come with composite tank and I'm willing to try it (because some one is using tank like that).
November 3, 200420 yr Author Carbon fibre is resist for bending and streching but does not hadle sharp shock. Kevlar insted can take guite hard sharp pulse on it. Epox what I'm planning use is flexible and also gasoline proof. Also planning to use rubber linside on tank (it will be sprayed to tank). I know all risks what will come with composite tank and I'm willing to try it (because some one is using tank like that). And learn how to write... linside -> inside.
November 18, 200420 yr Author rip off picture for start here http://www.sparewheel.net/sparebb/viewtopic.php?id=69
December 23, 200420 yr Author http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/262017/ http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/262018/ http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/262016/ Here is classfibre model under modification. It's much smaler that original and will be litle bite sharper and smaler. Side fairings will be done between x-mass and new year.
January 14, 200520 yr Author Still a lot of work left but I have about 3 months left before molds needs to be ready. Fuel tank is major problem but I have get some information how to do it so it should be too big issue. I'll keep you guys up to date on this.
January 21, 200520 yr Keep the updates coming...this is really cool....is this our answer to american custom chopper projects? ...
January 25, 200520 yr yea, once finished you should do a proper big write up, id be interested in doing me some of those, but really dont have a clue where to start lol
January 26, 200520 yr Admin You had better learn to GRP skyline before you touch carbon, would cost you a fortune in feck ups if you cant lay fibre glass
January 27, 200520 yr Author Well most biggest issue what comes to my mind when thinking that project is. If you start to change original desing as mush as I'm doing it, you will have 4 month's work practically worth of nothing... After you have REALLY good molds ready you can destroy desing work. All you have left is (I hope) really good molds. After that all is like coming out from last hair spinn and just open throthle. I mean you just take good P115 epox and some glass fibre and carbon fibre and start to work. First you add some epox to molds after that add thin fibre glass (40 gr / m2) to mold. After that you add carbon fibre add some epox and more carbon fibre. When you have as many layers as you need at that part you go to next phase. Take plastig bag (you need to make this one by your self) put mold (where is all that smelly shit) to bag, close that bag tight (and when you did made that bag you did add there valve what you can use to suck air out of that bag). You can use duck tape and silicon glue to seal that bag. So bag is sealed and air is out from there. You can see that all layers is pressed to mold very tight. Now you put that whole creation to some safe place where it can be till next day. Now is time to take care of your self. Go home, take shower and take a beer (or two -> ten). My fairings will take alot plastig padding before I can pait those and after taking those molds I can just burn all that base work I have been doing for 4 month's. Next pictures what is coming is when there is some padding added to front fairings. I do not recoment that project to enyone but if you are mentally ill or you just do not have any other way to get your head mixed (with epox) then do what you wanna do but don't blame me.
February 10, 200520 yr I'm really curious about this. I have done some fiberglass fabrication, and will be doing a lot more on future projects. What I did to form the molds was fabricating it with foam-core posterboard, paper mache, and plaster of paris. But this approach wouldn't work for fabricating a full fairing like you're doing... ...what approach do you take to define the shape of the basic fiberglass pieces? I have seen people using chicken wire + paper mache, and stuff like that... But again, I don't see how that would work here. And do you do anything special to get the left and right sides the same? Or just artistic skill? Great work so far!
February 11, 200520 yr Author I did use those original fairings as molds. After cleaning just drill all needed screw holes and fit original look a likes on and start to find new desing. Cutting and more fibre class and again cutting and fibre class. Tomorrow I will do underseat and start to fit new rear light (clear CBR 600 model).
February 17, 200520 yr I did use those original fairings as molds. Ahhhhh! Gotcha. Thanks very much for the info.
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