clank444 Posted January 18, 2011 Posted January 18, 2011 Hey, I replaced the clutch disks on my 1978 DT125E today and now the clutch doesnt seem to work at all. I can put the bike in any gear when not running with the clutch in but when I release the clutch lever I can still roll the bike around as if the clutch is constantly engaged. I have yet to add oil to the crank case just in case the cover has to come off again. what could be wrong with my bike? I have been restoring this bike to working condition for months as my high school senior project and this is just puzzling, at first the clutch was constantly engaged and now its just the opposite What The Hell! Any help would be fantastic, names Mike by the way.
Moderator Cynic Posted January 18, 2011 Moderator Posted January 18, 2011 First off , 'name's mike' is a bit lame as an intro. 1/10 Why not throw a proper intro up in the noobs section. Forum etiquette done. Important question first, why have you changed the clutch? and do you actually know how to adjust one properly?
clank444 Posted January 18, 2011 Author Posted January 18, 2011 I replaced the disks since before the clutch didnt work and my break down of the clutch found a disk frozen to two plates. I adjusted the clutch step by step per the 1978 Yamaha DT125/175E manual. the clutch lever works the clutch in and out just fine but the clutch doesnt seem to press the plates and disks together when the clutch lever is at rest. I apologise for the poor introduction, I said hi in the Noob section this morning. I am an 18 year old high school student at Bothell high school in Washington U.S. I am restoring the bike to "street-able" condition for my senior project and learning a lot in the process. I have never been to a forum so high class as to require an introduction.
barkwindjammer Posted January 18, 2011 Posted January 18, 2011 I replaced the disks since before the clutch didnt work and my break down of the clutch found a disk frozen to two plates. I adjusted the clutch step by step per the 1978 Yamaha DT125/175E manual. the clutch lever works the clutch in and out just fine but the clutch doesnt seem to press the plates and disks together when the clutch lever is at rest. I apologise for the poor introduction, I said hi in the Noob section this morning. I am an 18 year old high school student at Bothell high school in Washington U.S. I am restoring the bike to "street-able" condition for my senior project and learning a lot in the process. I have never been to a forum so high class as to require an introduction. High class-on here ? , an introduction isn't a 'requirement' its good manners-it helps to 'break the ice' and 'open doors' n'est pas ?
Moderator Cynic Posted January 18, 2011 Moderator Posted January 18, 2011 I replaced the disks since before the clutch didnt work and my break down of the clutch found a disk frozen to two plates. I adjusted the clutch step by step per the 1978 Yamaha DT125/175E manual. the clutch lever works the clutch in and out just fine but the clutch doesnt seem to press the plates and disks together when the clutch lever is at rest. I apologise for the poor introduction, I said hi in the Noob section this morning. I am an 18 year old high school student at Bothell high school in Washington U.S. I am restoring the bike to "street-able" condition for my senior project and learning a lot in the process. I have never been to a forum so high class as to require an introduction. No sweat, its just the forum, well this forum anyway really is a very open place with a lot of very real friends here. It seems to be something that has grown from the club due to a lot of (no dispespect intended) "Oive go a yam 125 an i wont go,ow do i make it do a million mph" There are some very experienced 125 owners on here who have lives, wives and kids and it just rankles a bit. And like myself when you have owned a bike over 20 years and know its vital parts better than the wife's (some may say thats no difficult for a bloke) being patronised by someone asking for help just aint nice. The very fact you have written the above intro removes you entirely from that group of people. Enterprising people with an interest in all things bikes we need, motorcycling is getting smaller as a pastime. Your the future not the oik who can;t spell. Hmm don't know where all that came from, Back to bussiness. You say you have adjusted it as per the manual. Did you set the pushrod too, or just the cable, i.m a little confused by the disk description. I take it you mean plain and friction plates. Have you replaced the springs or at least checked their free length?
clank444 Posted January 18, 2011 Author Posted January 18, 2011 I do mean the plain and friction plates, I checked the spring length and they meet the manuals required 34mm in length. I adjusted the cable and made the clutch arm on the flywheel side of the engine to match the mark where it needs to be. which push rod are you mentioning? I know there should be two one connected to the pressure plate (which I adjusted as my manual said) and one farther into the crank case.
Moderator Cynic Posted January 18, 2011 Moderator Posted January 18, 2011 Hmm, looks like you have a lot of it coverd. I take it there are no ridges on the basket or the hub that might snag the plates? I know you said there isn't any oil in the box. How long did you leave the friction plates to soak. They generally want an hour or so in some clean engine oil, my old man would leave them overnight which i think is seriously excessive.
clank444 Posted January 18, 2011 Author Posted January 18, 2011 I had my disks soak in yamalube for two days before putting them in, the inner clutch basket has no marks what so ever and the outer basket has five marks on it (all the way around) that can only be seen in the right light and cant be seen looking from the sides of the basket inward. there is definitly no signs of severe gouging or need to replace the clutch baskets by what the manual says in the engine rebuild and inspection chapters.
Moderator Cynic Posted January 18, 2011 Moderator Posted January 18, 2011 I had my disks soak in yamalube for two days before putting them in, the inner clutch basket has no marks what so ever and the outer basket has five marks on it (all the way around) that can only be seen in the right light and cant be seen looking from the sides of the basket inward. there is definitly no signs of severe gouging or need to replace the clutch baskets by what the manual says in the engine rebuild and inspection chapters. Damn, tricky one. I take it the bike is all done ready to test ride then. Chain, sprockets etc etc.
clank444 Posted January 18, 2011 Author Posted January 18, 2011 its in riding shape minus all the lights and the oil pump being removed. This clutch buisness is frustrating and I will probly have to go back and repeat it step by step to ensure I didnt miss anything. Thanks for your help in the matter though its very nice to be able to discuss these issues.
blackhat250 Posted January 18, 2011 Posted January 18, 2011 Hi " & welcome, Have you a manual? there shud be 5 fibre plates, 5 steel plates,& 5 cusion rings, is there a dot on inner clutch Hub, that may line up with a mark on preasure plate, I know you say thers 5 marks, is there a liniar mark on one of the 5 .
Moderator Airhead Posted January 18, 2011 Moderator Posted January 18, 2011 Its an odd one, assuming you rebuilt and adjusted the clutch correctly... Have you had the primary gear off, replaced with key in situ?
clank444 Posted January 19, 2011 Author Posted January 19, 2011 Well my clutch now works but has not been rode tested. The matter was easy to see after a visual inspection, I had the push rod much too far forward which was reducing pressure plate pressure. I screwed the rod back and re-adjusted the clutch and now it works the best it ever has. When I put the oil in I am 90 percent sure its over filled, what negative affects should I expect from this? Thanks again for your help.
Moderator Airhead Posted January 19, 2011 Moderator Posted January 19, 2011 Drain it to the correct level, with that bike you use the dipstick without screwing it down to check the level. If your'e careful you will be able to drain just some rather than all the oil by holding the drain plug up against the hole as you unscrew it until some has drained...if you see what i mean. It seems an odd question to me...to know something is wrong and then ask what ill effect it will have...just correct it I say.
clank444 Posted January 19, 2011 Author Posted January 19, 2011 I was planning on riding the bike briefly and then doing a full oil change, I just asked because I wanted to know if there is going to be an immediate negative affect.
Moderator Airhead Posted January 19, 2011 Moderator Posted January 19, 2011 a couple of times round the block wont do any harm, if it gets too hot and it is too full it could possibly come out of the breather pipe and end up on the rear tyre thats TYRE not tire How come youre doing an oil change? you had the engine in bits only 5 minutes ago ?
clank444 Posted January 19, 2011 Author Posted January 19, 2011 I am going to do an oil change since when i drained the oil to work on the clutch the engine was cold and left plenty contaminants left in the crank case.
Moderator Cynic Posted January 19, 2011 Moderator Posted January 19, 2011 You could be going a little far there. Not really a lot of 'precicion' components in there. I've had mine full of river water at least twice. They are built to last, really last.
clank444 Posted January 19, 2011 Author Posted January 19, 2011 I just worry about there being too much oil in the case and that it may foam like in a car engine when you overfill the oil. My bike has had the same oil in it for about 15 years so its about time for a change anyway. Hopefully I can get the oil pump on today and fill it with 2 stroke oil to take it for a ride today. we will see. Now when I pull in the clutch lever all the way the clutch works but you can still feel the engine and gear plates move on each other since its not as smooth to roll around with the clutch lever pulled in as the bike is to roll around in neutral. could this be due to the 32 year old clutch cable being worn out and stretched? When I adjust all the free play out of the cable it makes no difference in the feel of the bike rolling.
Moderator Airhead Posted January 19, 2011 Moderator Posted January 19, 2011 I just worry about there being too much oil in the case and that it may foam like in a car engine when you overfill the oil. My bike has had the same oil in it for about 15 years so its about time for a change anyway. Hopefully I can get the oil pump on today and fill it with 2 stroke oil to take it for a ride today. we will see. Now when I pull in the clutch lever all the way the clutch works but you can still feel the engine and gear plates move on each other since its not as smooth to roll around with the clutch lever pulled in as the bike is to roll around in neutral. could this be due to the 32 year old clutch cable being worn out and stretched? When I adjust all the free play out of the cable it makes no difference in the feel of the bike rolling. 15 years there must be a good ten left, ah well it's only money. I would not ride that bike until I had bled the two stroke pump and seen for myself that it is functioning. to do that first bleed it, then with the engine idling, turn the pump pulley by hand until fully turned (max stroke) then pull off the oil connection from the carb and witness the oil is pumping in a pulsed manner in sync with the pump strokes. Only then would I venture out on it...up to you
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