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92 xtz 660 tenere


Alan m
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the crank on my 1992 tenere ENGINE NUMBER 3YF 006~~ has decided it wants to make lot of hammering noise

i can get hold of a lump with a good crank from my local breakers but it came from the mz version of the tenere my top end is perfect so i want to transfer my good top end to the yam/mz bottom

he has gone over it and matched it up to a knackered lump from a 92 and reckons it look and fits but i need a nod from some one in the know before i hand over my cash

so over to any one who knows if it will fit with my good top end and all the gubblins hoses etc

any help appreciated

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cmon lads must be someone knows something?

the crank on my 1992 tenere ENGINE NUMBER 3YF 006~~ has decided it wants to make lot of hammering noise

i can get hold of a lump with a good crank from my local breakers but it came from the mz version of the tenere my top end is perfect so i want to transfer my good top end to the yam/mz bottom

he has gone over it and matched it up to a knackered lump from a 92 and reckons it look and fits but i need a nod from some one in the know before i hand over my cash

so over to any one who knows if it will fit with my good top end and all the gubblins hoses etc

any help appreciated

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  • 2 weeks later...

Alan

Found your problem whilst brousing google so thought I'd join group & answer your question.

Your head will bolt straight on to the mz bottom end.

Personaly I'd mend the hammering.

I had a similar problem on my '97 tenere, as have loads of people with szr660s & mz skorpions. The noise is caused by the balancer shaft drive gear becoming loose & banging against its' locating key, the key will eventualy shear & the balancer shaft will smash into your crank!

Take your water pump off & you'll see the drive gear on the crank. If there is any play in it, that's your problem. Note the tab washer will probably be in place & undamaged, wear occurs between the 2 inner most washers which has the same effect as losening the nut.

Yamaha appear to have solved the problem, the parts I bought had been made by a different process from the original ones.

Let me know if you want to mend yours & I'll send you the part no.s from "oemmotorparts.com" & tell you what to do.

Rick.

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cheer the part nums would be great is it an engine split job or can i get to the prob easy enough ?

Alan

Found your problem whilst brousing google so thought I'd join group & answer your question.

Your head will bolt straight on to the mz bottom end.

Personaly I'd mend the hammering.

I had a similar problem on my '97 tenere, as have loads of people with szr660s & mz skorpions. The noise is caused by the balancer shaft drive gear becoming loose & banging against its' locating key, the key will eventualy shear & the balancer shaft will smash into your crank!

Take your water pump off & you'll see the drive gear on the crank. If there is any play in it, that's your problem. Note the tab washer will probably be in place & undamaged, wear occurs between the 2 inner most washers which has the same effect as losening the nut.

Yamaha appear to have solved the problem, the parts I bought had been made by a different process from the original ones.

Let me know if you want to mend yours & I'll send you the part no.s from "oemmotorparts.com" & tell you what to do.

Rick.

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stripped the clutch cover off today wood ruff key was split in two on the balance shaft and the washers were worn down

luckily the key ways are fine but new parts are a priority now

the plus side is its not the crank so no new motor needed i hope

see pics

completly split lucky it did not seize

th_Photo0013.jpg

badly worn away

th_Photo0015.jpg

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Nice pics mate.

I'll give you the part no.s from "oemmotorparts" again & as I said these are genuine yamaha parts but not yamaha part no.s. It might be cheaper to buy from a yamaha or parts dealer, in which case you need yamaha part no.s (look on their microfiche & point @ the parts you need). Then I'll explain why I used genuine yamaha, then a few tips.

Go to "oemmotorparts" click on "yamaha" then "xtz660" then any year, theses parts are all the same.

In the clutch section you need:

no.2 key YA00245281

no.3 tab washer YA00243821

no.18 tab washer YA00243839

In the crankshaft piston section you need:

no.15 plate washer YA00241764

2x no.16 washer YA00120022

no.26 key YA00245262

no.29 tab washer YA00243729

You also need a new gasket (cut new 1 or buy an after market kit).

New oil & filter (your old 1 is full of swarf)

When I got this problem I read lots of fixes on the 'net. Some, with experience in racing, say the only fix is to fit a solid balancer drive gear from "slipstream" I don't know when they last tried genuine yam replacement parts & I believe yamaha fitted a "cush drive" for a reason, probably vibration. I can't remember if they mention washer no.15 which on mine was the cause of the problem.

Before I stripped my engine I had come to the conclusion part no.16 was too soft, I ordered a new 1 to use as a template so I could get new 1's made out of a harder metal. When it arrived, me & a blacksmith friend compared original with new. The original washer is plain in colour, has rounded edges & if you hang it from string & tap it with a screwdriver, the ringing doesn't last long. The new washer is mottled in colour (indicating it's been heat treated) has less rounded edges (indicating it's been machined) & in the ring test, it rang alot longer (indicating it's harder metal).

We came to the conclusion yamaha have already addressed this problem.

Washer no.15 was the cause of my problem, the original was warped by the stamping process that formed it, causing high spots that rub into washer no.16. I don't know if yamaha have addressed this, I flattened my original 1 on emery cloth stuck to plate glass. When you get your new 1, make sure it's FLAT ON BOTH SIDES! (If you use emery cloth, rotate the washer now & then to keep the sides parralell & make sure the washer's still thick enough to hold the nut off the crank boss when everything is assembled)

To undo & tighten the clutch center nut, I put the bike in 1st & stood on the rear brake, I also put a screwdriver through the back disk, to lock the rear wheel (THIS METHOD IS LIKELY TO DAMAGE YOUR CHAIN, use an old one or buy a clutch tool, IT'S YOUR CHOICE!)

To lock the crank, stuff cloth or leather between the balancer gears (official yamaha manual method) & make sure all 3 dots are inline when you reassemble.

Before you attach the clutch basket, you might like to file down any notches in it.

It might take 2 or 3 attempts @ replacing the clutch cover to get the clutch arm in the right place.

Torque settings:

Crankshaft nut 85 lbsft

Balance shaft nut 43 lbsft

Clutch center nut 65 lbsft

Good luck

Rick

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ordered the parts today its a first for rip off ireland but the parts came in at 43 euro including vat ,a hell of a lot cheaper than i thought they would be

their genuine yam parts aswell got them from the irish yam distributor direct

will have them in 48 hrs from holland . oem wanted to charge me 30 euro for a courier

can you enlighten me about the dots ? i figured the shafts will have to be lined up will have to read my manual

thanks for all the info

Nice pics mate.

I'll give you the part no.s from "oemmotorparts" again & as I said these are genuine yamaha parts but not yamaha part no.s. It might be cheaper to buy from a yamaha or parts dealer, in which case you need yamaha part no.s (look on their microfiche & point @ the parts you need). Then I'll explain why I used genuine yamaha, then a few tips.

Go to "oemmotorparts" click on "yamaha" then "xtz660" then any year, theses parts are all the same.

In the clutch section you need:

no.2 key YA00245281

no.3 tab washer YA00243821

no.18 tab washer YA00243839

In the crankshaft piston section you need:

no.15 plate washer YA00241764

2x no.16 washer YA00120022

no.26 key YA00245262

no.29 tab washer YA00243729

You also need a new gasket (cut new 1 or buy an after market kit).

New oil & filter (your old 1 is full of swarf)

When I got this problem I read lots of fixes on the 'net. Some, with experience in racing, say the only fix is to fit a solid balancer drive gear from "slipstream" I don't know when they last tried genuine yam replacement parts & I believe yamaha fitted a "cush drive" for a reason, probably vibration. I can't remember if they mention washer no.15 which on mine was the cause of the problem.

Before I stripped my engine I had come to the conclusion part no.16 was too soft, I ordered a new 1 to use as a template so I could get new 1's made out of a harder metal. When it arrived, me & a blacksmith friend compared original with new. The original washer is plain in colour, has rounded edges & if you hang it from string & tap it with a screwdriver, the ringing doesn't last long. The new washer is mottled in colour (indicating it's been heat treated) has less rounded edges (indicating it's been machined) & in the ring test, it rang alot longer (indicating it's harder metal).

We came to the conclusion yamaha have already addressed this problem.

Washer no.15 was the cause of my problem, the original was warped by the stamping process that formed it, causing high spots that rub into washer no.16. I don't know if yamaha have addressed this, I flattened my original 1 on emery cloth stuck to plate glass. When you get your new 1, make sure it's FLAT ON BOTH SIDES! (If you use emery cloth, rotate the washer now & then to keep the sides parralell & make sure the washer's still thick enough to hold the nut off the crank boss when everything is assembled)

To undo & tighten the clutch center nut, I put the bike in 1st & stood on the rear brake, I also put a screwdriver through the back disk, to lock the rear wheel (THIS METHOD IS LIKELY TO DAMAGE YOUR CHAIN, use an old one or buy a clutch tool, IT'S YOUR CHOICE!)

To lock the crank, stuff cloth or leather between the balancer gears (official yamaha manual method) & make sure all 3 dots are inline when you reassemble.

Before you attach the clutch basket, you might like to file down any notches in it.

It might take 2 or 3 attempts @ replacing the clutch cover to get the clutch arm in the right place.

Torque settings:

Crankshaft nut 85 lbsft

Balance shaft nut 43 lbsft

Clutch center nut 65 lbsft

Good luck

Rick

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got them from the irish yam distributor direct

Howya Alan,,

ya got a link to this Irish Yam distributor direct ?

Cheers if ya have sir !

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danfay down in sallynoggin when i said direct i meant i bought off them direct

shops will charge ya for the privilage dont ya know good lads out there which wee island you from any were near letter kenny good mate o mine hails from up there have his beemer in me garden doin a bit o work on it for him

Howya Alan,,

ya got a link to this Irish Yam distributor direct ?

Cheers if ya have sir !

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danfay down in sallynoggin when i said direct i meant i bought off them direct

shops will charge ya for the privilage dont ya know good lads out there which wee island you from any were near letter kenny good mate o mine hails from up there have his beemer in me garden doin a bit o work on it for him

Aye,,,Letterkenny is only an hour away from me.

The wee Island is where im from,,,,,but i live in Ballybofey.

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what are ya looking for im going out to them on fri to collect my parts i can check with them

part numbers would be handy i can get prices and have them for ya fri evening

Aye,,,Letterkenny is only an hour away from me.

The wee Island is where im from,,,,,but i live in Ballybofey.

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Glad you're making progress mate

40 euros sounds alot cheaper than an engine.

You have one dot (punch mark) on the balance shaft gear & two on the crank gear, as long as you haven't taken the crank gear apart, they will still be inline. Just make sure all three dots point toward each other when you reassemble, pic on page 4-75 in ya manual.

Let us know if the inner plate washer has been updated, there are a few more interested parties.

Rick

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well its all back together and sounds sweeet a lot quieter than before replaced the generator coil aswell while i weas at it used one from a fazer 600

but the pick up would not fire so swapped it for the original pickup gonna take it out tomorrow for work a days dispatching will give it a proper test

rick the parts were all new superceded parts the pic shows the difference in the color between the new and the old

left are the new ones

Photo0016.jpg

Glad you're making progress mate

40 euros sounds alot cheaper than an engine.

You have one dot (punch mark) on the balance shaft gear & two on the crank gear, as long as you haven't taken the crank gear apart, they will still be inline. Just make sure all three dots point toward each other when you reassemble, pic on page 4-75 in ya manual.

Let us know if the inner plate washer has been updated, there are a few more interested parties.

Rick

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days work done and it went fine no prob job sorted touch wood

looking fior a right hand side panel if you know of one lying around any other tips for the tenere appreciated

would like to go for the later twin headlight set up dont know if it will fit ?

cheers for the info any way

it would be good to get a list of compatable parts if you know any

fazer 600 generator coil fits for a start you will need the xtz pick up

honda cb 500 reg/rec aswell red to red earth to green

there are 2 red and two green on the cb 500 any one will do as they are in the same block

three other colors to white from the loom

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full weeks work done on the bike and its running sweet

days work done and it went fine no prob job sorted touch wood

looking fior a right hand side panel if you know of one lying around any other tips for the tenere appreciated

would like to go for the later twin headlight set up dont know if it will fit ?

cheers for the info any way

it would be good to get a list of compatable parts if you know any

fazer 600 generator coil fits for a start you will need the xtz pick up

honda cb 500 reg/rec aswell red to red earth to green

there are 2 red and two green on the cb 500 any one will do as they are in the same block

three other colors to white from the loom

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  • 6 years later...
On 1/17/2011 at 1:19 AM, xtzrick said:

Alan

 

Found your problem whilst brousing google so thought I'd join group & answer your question.

 

Your head will bolt straight on to the mz bottom end.

 

Personaly I'd mend the hammering.

 

I had a similar problem on my '97 tenere, as have loads of people with szr660s & mz skorpions. The noise is caused by the balancer shaft drive gear becoming loose & banging against its' locating key, the key will eventualy shear & the balancer shaft will smash into your crank!

 

Take your water pump off & you'll see the drive gear on the crank. If there is any play in it, that's your problem. Note the tab washer will probably be in place & undamaged, wear occurs between the 2 inner most washers which has the same effect as losening the nut.

 

Yamaha appear to have solved the problem, the parts I bought had been made by a different process from the original ones.

 

Let me know if you want to mend yours & I'll send you the part no.s from "oemmotorparts.com" & tell you what to do.

 

Rick.

Thanks, man. On my old SZR660 had the same issue. Now I ordered the same parts that you showed & swapped them. Without your help, it would have been impossible !

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