Jump to content

XV 125 parts - gaskets, steering head bearings


Kelum
This post is 4951 days old and we'd rather you create a new post instead of adding to this one. You can't reply in this post.

Recommended Posts

Hi guys after long time...

Was sometime away dealing with the bike, been understanding it more..plus I found a local store that sell genuine Japanese parts..at least they know the bike...errr yes they know the bike but for the gaskets I was given XV250 gaskets which I strongly think wouldnt fit..

Has someone got any experience on gasket replacing? XV250 thing wouldnt fit at all right?

Same store gave me steering head bearings but the lower one's hole was smaller than the vertical rod of the steering head so had to put the old one once again which seems to cause issues..must remove them once again and take the lower older one to store to get a matching one..

My silencers have several corrosions (holes) and I wanna get them fixed...welding with some non-corrosive metal would work? When you weld would it be better to remove silencers from the bike?

I replaced oil seals and dust seals in front forks...:D however bearing problem still there :(

Removed a link of the drive chain and put new break shoes..had to remove front break pads...they had worn out..bought new ones but there's an oil leak in the break oil reservoir..oil was removed and now no break in front wheel...

Please someone help me on these..if someone could send me break reservoir system for the bike I can send him the cost..I will see if that's available here..

Guys am wishing you merry christmas here! (am a Buddhist) :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you want an ad-free experience? Join today and help support the Yamaha Owners Club.

Hi guys after long time...

Was sometime away dealing with the bike, been understanding it more..plus I found a local store that sell genuine Japanese parts..at least they know the bike...errr yes they know the bike but for the gaskets I was given XV250 gaskets which I strongly think wouldnt fit..

Has someone got any experience on gasket replacing? XV250 thing wouldnt fit at all right?

Same store gave me steering head bearings but the lower one's hole was smaller than the vertical rod of the steering head so had to put the old one once again which seems to cause issues..must remove them once again and take the lower older one to store to get a matching one..

My silencers have several corrosions (holes) and I wanna get them fixed...welding with some non-corrosive metal would work? When you weld would it be better to remove silencers from the bike?

I replaced oil seals and dust seals in front forks...:D however bearing problem still there :(

Removed a link of the drive chain and put new break shoes..had to remove front break pads...they had worn out..bought new ones but there's an oil leak in the break oil reservoir..oil was removed and now no break in front wheel...

Please someone help me on these..if someone could send me break reservoir system for the bike I can send him the cost..I will see if that's available here..

Guys am wishing you merry christmas here! (am a Buddhist) :P

Buddhist? Well, in that case, Seasons Greetings

Not sure about the gaskets, but why are you changing them anyway?

Steering head bearing, your supplier should be able to match up the old one, it should have the part number marked on the race somewhere.

Silencer holes, just make sure that they are not the drain holes. Welding repairs? Depends on how badly corroded the silencers are, its not always easy to weld onto corroded metal without making a mess, if you weld with them on the bike, make sure to cover up the surrounding parts properly so as to avoid damaging other areas. You may find it easier to take them off to repair as you would have beter access and less risk of damaging anything else.

Drive chain link removal? Why? If its an old chain, Id be worried as that tells me that the chain might have stretched and require replacing, safety issue here!

Front brakes? Thats right, if you remove the oil, the front brake wont work. Where is the oil leaking from, the joint of the lid/the sight glass/the pipe connection. Stop the leak, refill the system, bleed the air out, brakes should work again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Buddhist? Well, in that case, Seasons Greetings

Not sure about the gaskets, but why are you changing them anyway?

Steering head bearing, your supplier should be able to match up the old one, it should have the part number marked on the race somewhere.

Silencer holes, just make sure that they are not the drain holes. Welding repairs? Depends on how badly corroded the silencers are, its not always easy to weld onto corroded metal without making a mess, if you weld with them on the bike, make sure to cover up the surrounding parts properly so as to avoid damaging other areas. You may find it easier to take them off to repair as you would have beter access and less risk of damaging anything else.

Drive chain link removal? Why? If its an old chain, Id be worried as that tells me that the chain might have stretched and require replacing, safety issue here!

Front brakes? Thats right, if you remove the oil, the front brake wont work. Where is the oil leaking from, the joint of the lid/the sight glass/the pipe connection. Stop the leak, refill the system, bleed the air out, brakes should work again.

Hi...lot of questions..

Changing gaskets because at either ends of the engine heads where exhausts fit..there are oil leaks..I should look into gaskets in heads therefore..

On silencers the corroded holes exist under the belly area.. and side so they are not drain holes..they are not that big so I can get them covered..then I may be able to smoothen them and apply some chrome paint?

It is normal here to remove a drive chain link or two when the slack becomes unmanageable..that solves the problem..a new chain would be a bit pricey so people try best to repair the existing. I pulled the rear wheel backward to the max to solve the issue but you have no option other than shortening the chain by removing a link thereafter when excessive slack troubles you..trust me removing a link will solves the problem..

There is a oil leak in the container..from the piston area where break handle presses the piston..washers worn out? what should I do..am not sure if I could find the unit here man... :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi...lot of questions..

Changing gaskets because at either ends of the engine heads where exhausts fit..there are oil leaks..I should look into gaskets in heads therefore..

On silencers the corroded holes exist under the belly area.. and side so they are not drain holes..they are not that big so I can get them covered..then I may be able to smoothen them and apply some chrome paint?

It is normal here to remove a drive chain link or two when the slack becomes unmanageable..that solves the problem..a new chain would be a bit pricey so people try best to repair the existing. I pulled the rear wheel backward to the max to solve the issue but you have no option other than shortening the chain by removing a link thereafter when excessive slack troubles you..trust me removing a link will solves the problem..

There is a oil leak in the container..from the piston area where break handle presses the piston..washers worn out? what should I do..am not sure if I could find the unit here man... :(

Hmmmm. Oil leaking from the exhaust gasket. Shouldn't do that, but I'd be worried because I don't think there should be any (much) oil there in the first place. I hope someone else answers too, but I think this may be piston ring problem.

Sorry Kelum, but when chain slack becomes unamanageable to the extent that you have to remove a couple if links, it is time to fit a new chain, trust me. (and check your sprockets for excess wear). Cost of chain over here is £30 to £40

Sounds like the seals have gone on the brake master cylinder. You should be able to buy a replacement seal kit for the bike (Ebay etc), shouldn't be too expensive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmmm. Oil leaking from the exhaust gasket. Shouldn't do that, but I'd be worried because I don't think there should be any (much) oil there in the first place. I hope someone else answers too, but I think this may be piston ring problem.

Sorry Kelum, but when chain slack becomes unamanageable to the extent that you have to remove a couple if links, it is time to fit a new chain, trust me. (and check your sprockets for excess wear). Cost of chain over here is £30 to £40

Sounds like the seals have gone on the brake master cylinder. You should be able to buy a replacement seal kit for the bike (Ebay etc), shouldn't be too expensive.

Hey..really? I'm afraid of inside-engine issues..what should I do if it is a piston ring issue??? Rings are available to buy?

Please answer...both rings gone since oil leaking from both heads? This affects combustion? will it consume more fuel? what will be the worst at the end? Please advice! :o

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if oil is leaking from the exhaust hole then its not good :blink: but i think it might be leaking from the worn gaskets between the head and barrel and just dripping down to the exhaust port. the 250cc gasket wont fit as the hole for the piston is bigger and will probably cover oil-ways to the head. so get the 125 version and get a tube of instant gasket just to make sure.

one question.... does the bike start OK? say 2nd or 3rd try? if its a piston ring problem then it wont start up (on the electric start). and lets hope and prey that its not the piston rings! i cant seem to find any in the uk (at a reasonable price) so you will have no chance of getting any!

and finally .......removing a link or 2 is only a temporary fix! it will grind your sprockets down smooth! so best get looking and saving for a new chain and sprockets.

and as to the exhaust, best bet would be to patch the holes, try not to take the exhaust off as you might snap a bolt (if its badly corroded)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if oil is leaking from the exhaust hole then its not good :blink: but i think it might be leaking from the worn gaskets between the head and barrel and just dripping down to the exhaust port. the 250cc gasket wont fit as the hole for the piston is bigger and will probably cover oil-ways to the head. so get the 125 version and get a tube of instant gasket just to make sure.

one question.... does the bike start OK? say 2nd or 3rd try? if its a piston ring problem then it wont start up (on the electric start). and lets hope and prey that its not the piston rings! i cant seem to find any in the uk (at a reasonable price) so you will have no chance of getting any!

and finally .......removing a link or 2 is only a temporary fix! it will grind your sprockets down smooth! so best get looking and saving for a new chain and sprockets.

and as to the exhaust, best bet would be to patch the holes, try not to take the exhaust off as you might snap a bolt (if its badly corroded)

Ya Paul I think you are right about the gaskets as I see some worn out gasket parts in joints..yes it starts fine..no issues..hm seems the only option I will have is to buy tube and gaskets from ebay...

I bought WD40 and applied it to battery terminals...once or twice I had terminal oxidation that didnt send in the current to lights and starter motor..so I abraded the terminals fit them back and applied WD 40 so the surfaces wont have oxygen/water to react..is that cool? that is cool as issue fixed after that..

Am pretty sure oil leaking from worn out exhausts..I got afraid after NEVERSAYDYE's comments..I am scared of engine issues.. :blink::unsure:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if it starts ok then its not a big engine issue :D the "oil" from the exhaust is probably water that has turned black due to the carbon deposits in the exhaust, but get the gaskets sorted then see if its ok.

will you be doing the gaskets yourself? or will you get a mechanic to do it? if you decide to do it yourself i can go through step by step how to do it, plus you could get the exhaust done while you take the engine apart. ;)

as to the battery, just make the terminals shiny with a wire brush or some sand paper, then once you put the connectors back on spray it with wd40 B) otherwise you get wd40 between the terminals and connectors which will interfere with the electrics.

but yeah hope you get it sorted m8 :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ya Paul I think you are right about the gaskets as I see some worn out gasket parts in joints..yes it starts fine..no issues..hm seems the only option I will have is to buy tube and gaskets from ebay...

I bought WD40 and applied it to battery terminals...once or twice I had terminal oxidation that didnt send in the current to lights and starter motor..so I abraded the terminals fit them back and applied WD 40 so the surfaces wont have oxygen/water to react..is that cool? that is cool as issue fixed after that..

Am pretty sure oil leaking from worn out exhausts..I got afraid after NEVERSAYDYE's comments..I am scared of engine issues.. :blink::unsure:

Sorry Kelum, I appear to have misunderstood your message, I thought that you had oil leaking out FROM the exhaust joint, didnt mean to worry you unduly

Ray

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry Kelum, I appear to have misunderstood your message, I thought that you had oil leaking out FROM the exhaust joint, didnt mean to worry you unduly

Ray

Its ok Ray..no worries..you owe me several pints of blood though...that burned lot of blood in me..couldnt even eat... :D

tc man..merry x mas plus happy new year to all!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if it starts ok then its not a big engine issue :D the "oil" from the exhaust is probably water that has turned black due to the carbon deposits in the exhaust, but get the gaskets sorted then see if its ok.

will you be doing the gaskets yourself? or will you get a mechanic to do it? if you decide to do it yourself i can go through step by step how to do it, plus you could get the exhaust done while you take the engine apart. ;)

as to the battery, just make the terminals shiny with a wire brush or some sand paper, then once you put the connectors back on spray it with wd40 B) otherwise you get wd40 between the terminals and connectors which will interfere with the electrics.

but yeah hope you get it sorted m8 :D

Thanks Paul, but I just have few tools with me (just few wrenches and allen key set..so will get to a mechanic...yes I applied WD 40 after making them shiny and fitting together..I foresaw your point.. B)

Yeah will get it sorted out...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Who's Online (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...