LewLar Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 Howdy again! During the summer I picked up a dirt cheap DTR that turned out to be a bit ropey, I had plans to tart it up a bit, maybe get it on the road etc etc...anyhow the frame is still sitting in my garden with the engine locked in by a bastard of a pivot bolt that I just can't shift. Here's the DTR... Then this week a mate offered me an F reg '89 DT for a £100 with a seized engine. So I went and got it. Now the questions. Will the engine fit? Are there any other bits I can use from my DTR on the DT? Ta! Lewis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vez Posted December 14, 2010 Share Posted December 14, 2010 89 and 92 are both DTR's. ( DT125R's ran from 88-03) I say again, as i did in the previous thread (you linked too), 88-03 are all the same frame as far as I'm concerned. There are slight differences in the engines, gear ratios, generator/flywheel, barrel design and standard piston sizes etc., but the engine dimensions remained the same and will swap over. The list of compatible parts is basically everything except the electrical system for the engine (cdi, stator etc) and lights. Some of the designs of the plastics were changed slightly but they still swap over iirc. If you want to swap the engines over its probably best to change the electrics with it, or at least the ignition system. The early models had an ignition control unit separate from the cdi where as the later it was built into the cdi. Although I'm 99% sure you can swap the ignition electrics over. If you have the time and patience to split the loom and swap generators etc. that is. If it was me, i would get the stubborn bolt out of the 92 as it will give you more scope with spares. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted December 14, 2010 Moderator Share Posted December 14, 2010 Post a photo of the bolt and tell us how you attempted to extract it, maybe we can suggest something Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LewLar Posted December 15, 2010 Author Share Posted December 15, 2010 As for the bolt I hit it very very hard with a hammer. A lot. Still wont budge. Will have to take it to a garage I think... As for the new bike, I'm certain the frame is very different, the shock seems to mount "inside" the frame a lot more, and oil and water tanks are under the seat? Any ideas?! I'll get a photo on as soon as I'm at home in daylight! Lewis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted December 15, 2010 Moderator Share Posted December 15, 2010 As for the bolt I hit it very very hard with a hammer. A lot. Still wont budge. Will have to take it to a garage I think... As for the new bike, I'm certain the frame is very different, the shock seems to mount "inside" the frame a lot more, and oil and water tanks are under the seat? Any ideas?! I'll get a photo on as soon as I'm at home in daylight! Lewis Patience imagination and a hacksaw will get it out. You may have to persuade the blade in but cutting it will be the only way if brute force has failed. Lubrication the spindle runs in a sleeve. The sleeve rusts to the spindle and it dont matter how hard you hit it it wont move. Air gun might have done it, using it as a hammer. Otherwise its just graft and cut fingers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhat250 Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 Lubrication Just a wee tip on penitrating fluids , i have read in Classic Motor .C. Mechanics , the best product off the shelf is -" Liquid Wrench. " even better is ATF. mixed with Acitone[ nail varnish remover] B.W.J. uses this. , these products are 3 times better than WD40, . Anthing else we can add on lubrication cynic "? [ two-stroke oil ] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barkwindjammer Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 Another good tip is to use a broken drill bit, large diameter (10mm etc) and put it into a hammer drill the wrong way round, pour on lashings of release agent -WD40, ACF 50, Plus gas, and as suggested by Blackie- nail varnish remover (Maybelline ?) hammer stubborn bolt at 05:35 hours on a sunday for 15 minutes in an intermittent pattern-reassuring your weary neighbours that you are indeed an irritating head case Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LewLar Posted December 15, 2010 Author Share Posted December 15, 2010 I tried lubing the sucker, didn't get as far as exotic solutions reccomended above, but I'll definately give them all a go. As for the bike, here's a (dark) photo... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted December 15, 2010 Moderator Share Posted December 15, 2010 The problem is often that the frame flexes, the wheels flex etc etc, all in all it is not a solid structure when you are hammering at it and will absorb much of the force you are trying to exert on the bolt. The answer can be to place a metal tube over the head of the bolt and up against the frame, jam the other end of the tube up against a solid brick or concrete wall and get a helper to keep it in place. Now your full effort will delivered to the bolt...if it doesnt move now it's the sawing method . Be sure that the bolt will clear the inside of the tube, dont forget some bolts have an in-built washer under the hexagon. I didnt want to see the bloody bike but the bolt!...never mind Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LewLar Posted December 15, 2010 Author Share Posted December 15, 2010 The problem is often that the frame flexes, the wheels flex etc etc, all in all it is not a solid structure when you are hammering at it and will absorb much of the force you are trying to exert on the bolt. The answer can be to place a metal tube over the head of the bolt and up against the frame, jam the other end of the tube up against a solid brick or concrete wall and get a helper to keep it in place. Now your full effort will delivered to the bolt...if it doesnt move now it's the sawing method . Be sure that the bolt will clear the inside of the tube, dont forget some bolts have an in-built washer under the hexagon. I didnt want to see the bloody bike but the bolt!...never mind Sorry OGOAB the bike pic was for the other question, what is it, I'm guessing the engine thats stuck in my '91 DTR frame ain't gonna fit in that one. Will try and get a photo of the bolt tomorrow, looks like the same bolt in my new bike is the same, used a scaffolding pole on my breaker bar, that sucker ain't turning either! Will have to try some of the stuff up there ^^ L Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vez Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 Sorry OGOAB the bike pic was for the other question, what is it, I'm guessing the engine thats stuck in my '91 DTR frame ain't gonna fit in that one. Will try and get a photo of the bolt tomorrow, looks like the same bolt in my new bike is the same, used a scaffolding pole on my breaker bar, that sucker ain't turning either! Will have to try some of the stuff up there ^^ L Its looks like a DT125LC. I don't know if the engines will switch over as i have zero experience with dt125lc's. Why not do some investigation and see? My suggestion for the bolt would be to heat the stubborn bolt up and the surrounding area with a blow torch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted December 16, 2010 Moderator Share Posted December 16, 2010 My suggestion for the bolt would be to heat the stubborn bolt up and the surrounding area with a blow torch. Don't work Vez, the bolt is siezed in a sleeve inside the sw arm and thats ally, and unfortunately it dissapates heat far better than steel so the sw/arm would be practicly melting out of the frame before the bolt had any worthwhile heat where it matters. Had the self same problem with mine and had to saw the f/ker out, the only real option would be a drift and an air gun. Not so many people got them in their garage though eh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted December 16, 2010 Moderator Share Posted December 16, 2010 Don't work Vez, the bolt is siezed in a sleeve inside the sw arm and thats ally, and unfortunately it dissapates heat far better than steel so the sw/arm would be practicly melting out of the frame before the bolt had any worthwhile heat where it matters. Had the self same problem with mine and had to saw the f/ker out, the only real option would be a drift and an air gun. Not so many people got them in their garage though eh. i'm confused now, I thought it was an engine bolt that was stuck not a swing arm pivot...although the op did for some reason put the words engine and pivot together Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted December 16, 2010 Moderator Share Posted December 16, 2010 i'm confused now, I thought it was an engine bolt that was stuck not a swing arm pivot...although the op did for some reason put the words engine and pivot together But thats easy just drill the b'stard off. I got confused to with the pivot thing. Bet its stuck in that damper assy. So its stuck the same way but it should be easy to get off. Just ask Black and Decker for assistance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted December 16, 2010 Moderator Share Posted December 16, 2010 But it's the engine he wants out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barkwindjammer Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 Bike would be better lying on its side too on top of old tyres or summink, make a small reservior out of plasticine or similair around the bushing-pour in your lubricant mixture and let it sit for a day or two Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vez Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 Don't work Vez, the bolt is siezed in a sleeve inside the sw arm and thats ally, and unfortunately it dissapates heat far better than steel so the sw/arm would be practicly melting out of the frame before the bolt had any worthwhile heat where it matters. Had the self same problem with mine and had to saw the f/ker out, the only real option would be a drift and an air gun. Not so many people got them in their garage though eh. The sleeves in the sw arm are steel on the DTR, with a brass bush on the engine. If it is the sw arm bolt, then the bolt itself has a hole through the middle which is ideal for passing a flame through to get heat where its needed. If its either of the other four, some one needs to man up as they are 13-14mm bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vez Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 i'm confused now, I thought it was an engine bolt that was stuck not a swing arm pivot...although the op did for some reason put the words engine and pivot together The engine is held in place by the swing arm pivot bolt . Or am i missing your point? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted December 16, 2010 Moderator Share Posted December 16, 2010 The engine is held in place by the swing arm pivot bolt . Or am i missing your point? Aah, didnt realise that... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted December 17, 2010 Moderator Share Posted December 17, 2010 The engine is held in place by the swing arm pivot bolt . Or am i missing your point? OOOps, sorry vez oldfarticitus i'm afraid. On my dt they are separate i thought these were the same . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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