Rear wheel Hub Dampers causing sproket mount to move forward and backward

[Kelum]

Hi guys,

Rear sprocket of the bike had some slight forward-backward rotation which I didnt pay much attention, but now the movement distance has increased lets say twice the earlier distance..I asked from a mechanic and he said its the rubber dampers..but we didnt disassemble it to see..

I checked on the net to find dampers but couldnt find any vendor. Am referring to what the image below depicts;

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As I ride I feel some creeky noise from the rear axle..its not very loud...break working fine, as I move the bike neutral engine off the wheel causes a slight vibration on the frame which is prominent if you hold on the sissy arm..

They are available for other bikes as a 4/3 set but I dont know what is the size and dimensions..can someonehelp me with the dimensions so I can match them up with what is available in the market?

The wheel not shaking at all..its perfect...sorry am hoping I gave u the idea..I may not be using proper words u use for stuff like this...

Thank you guys...!

[Paulwhite]

hi kelum

cant help you with sizes, but i know the xvs dragstar 125 ones will fit! there were a couple on ebay last time i looked, but just as long as its only a small movement you will be ok, i can move my dragstar one about 5mm forward and backward so think its normal to have a little movement.

[Kelum]

Thanks Paul, am really worried of this strange friction issue...I should get it checked...this has become a big issue only because the bike has no main stand...otherwise checking is not a prob..mechanics are reluctant to have look, they scratch head when it comes to remove the rear tyres..

[Paulwhite]

lol well its not hard taking them out but it is a little tricky putting them back in. i had to do it when i was painting the rims, ended up having to jump on the tire once i lined it all up lol.

[Kelum]

lol well its not hard taking them out but it is a little tricky putting them back in. i had to do it when i was painting the rims, ended up having to jump on the tire once i lined it all up lol.

Really..he he...Paul what will you feel as u ride the bike when these dampers are worn out? will you experience what I am...?

[Kelum]

These guys seem to be cool..

enjoy!

[yamahait]

hi

the part i would be looking at is the bearing in the sprocket carrier,the dampers you are referring to are cush drive rubbers that are there to cushion the forcre of acceleration and brakingso as not to rip sprocket from mounts,any excess play you have i would put monet on is caused by the carrier bearing,remove the sprocket carrier and feel the inside of bearing and try to move it,it should be quite solid with no sideways movement.

cheers

mark.

[neversaydie]

hi

the part i would be looking at is the bearing in the sprocket carrier,the dampers you are referring to are cush drive rubbers that are there to cushion the forcre of acceleration and brakingso as not to rip sprocket from mounts,any excess play you have i would put monet on is caused by the carrier bearing,remove the sprocket carrier and feel the inside of bearing and try to move it,it should be quite solid with no sideways movement.

cheers

mark.

Yep, check bearings/housing/shaft, wear in the dampers would not result in the wheel moving forward on its mounting. Also check to make sure that the rear wheel/chain adjusters for both sides are set the same and are tight, remember that if you adjust the rear wheel you have to reset the rear brake. Check that the axle nuts are tight.

[Paulwhite]

i think ppl misunderstood my comment abut the sprocket moving when the wheel is stationary, what i meant was that with the rear wheel on the bike you can TURN the sprocket (the way its meant to) by about 5mm each way, which i think is normal, if however you have any other movement, then yes more than likely the bearing is worn.

[Kelum]

Hi guys..I opened the covers, wheel was not moving, one bearing requires replacing, all the dampers were broken from the top small piece of rubber that connects one pair..they were not worn out though..bearing's worn out seemed very small...so what is the problem here..thanks for replies..

[Paulwhite]

Hi guys..I opened the covers, wheel was not moving, one bearing requires replacing, all the dampers were broken from the top small piece of rubber that connects one pair..they were not worn out though..bearing's worn out seemed very small...so what is the problem here..thanks for replies..

dont worry about the bit of rubber holding the dampers together. there fine. an easy way to check the bearings, get the big bolt that holds the wheel on and put it in the bearings and wiggle it side to side if you get any play then the bearing needs replacing ,

a broken/worn bearing could happen because of the bent swingarm plus lack of grease.

[Gas up - Let's Go!]

Worn cush rubbers....... welcome to my world !

Mine wear out every 1 1/2 tyres, so I extend the life a little by packing out the rubbers with sheets of old inner-tube. Bicycle ones will work (but won't last long) but motorcycle ones are better.

The method is to cut a sheet that is the right size to cover the 'fin' (part 6) on the sproket carrier, place the sheet over the hole on the hub side then push the carrier (part 8) into the gaps. If it is very tight then you are onto a winner, if it's still slack then your inner-tube bodge won't last very long at all. You can make it a little easier by using a small ammount of talcum powder as this acts as a lubricant for the rubber.

Try it, you've nothing to loose.

[growls]

Have a look at this page it shows how to make a diy bike lift. http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/bikelift.htm.

you may find it help's if your working on the rear end a lot.

[Paulwhite]

Worn cush rubbers....... welcome to my world !

Mine wear out every 1 1/2 tyres, so I extend the life a little by packing out the rubbers with sheets of old inner-tube. Bicycle ones will work (but won't last long) but motorcycle ones are better.

The method is to cut a sheet that is the right size to cover the 'fin' (part 6) on the sproket carrier, place the sheet over the hole on the hub side then push the carrier (part 8) into the gaps. If it is very tight then you are onto a winner, if it's still slack then your inner-tube bodge won't last very long at all. You can make it a little easier by using a small ammount of talcum powder as this acts as a lubricant for the rubber.

Try it, you've nothing to loose.

wouldnt washing up liquid work better? just put a light smear all over the rubber?

[Paulwhite]

Have a look at this page it shows how to make a diy bike lift. http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/bikelift.htm.

ou may find it help if your working on the rear end a lot.

fookin sweet idea! might have to make one for myself

[Kelum]

fookin sweet idea! might have to make one for myself

Yeah that's cool...I was very much worried due to lack of a main stand..however...how strong the silencer area to hold the bikes weight...I think its not advisable..so u need to place the lifter where the cradle is...the bike is longer so the rear end wouldnt raise that easily..however..this is a great idea to have a try..

Thanks for all the replies...thanx Gas up-Lets Go and Growl for the solutions..May you never get a bike trouble!

Oh..guys I just wanna say..right after I rode the bike and stopped..the rear hub became extremely heavy..which meant extreme friction...we removed break shoes too and they were kinda worn...one bearing too required replacement..

Yes the Cush rubbers were broken only..they perfectly fitted the hub..

And my mechanic said too much oil in the engine causes issues only in the two-stroke engines, 4 strokes wont have issues..is that true guys..he's been working with bikes for ages..even from long before I was born..

[Paulwhite]

well put it this way a 2 stroke burns the oil with the fuel (they are mixed together) so more oil = less fuel = boom of engine.

where as the 4 stroke just uses the oil for lubrication only, in the crank case.

iv always been told that having too much oil in a 4 stroke does the same damage as having not enough or bad oil.

iv been told this by many mechanics of all ages who have had many years in the trade (my main mechanic has been doing his job for over 35 years)

i couldnt tell you why its bad having too much oil as i dont know, but im sure that anyone else on the forum would tell you the same thing.

i might have to google it and see why its bad having too much oil. and then get back to you lol

[drewpy]

well put it this way a 2 stroke burns the oil with the fuel (they are mixed together) so more oil = less fuel = boom of engine.

where as the 4 stroke just uses the oil for lubrication only, in the crank case.

iv always been told that having too much oil in a 4 stroke does the same damage as having not enough or bad oil.

iv been told this by many mechanics of all ages who have had many years in the trade (my main mechanic has been doing his job for over 35 years)

i couldnt tell you why its bad having too much oil as i dont know, but im sure that anyone else on the forum would tell you the same thing.

i might have to google it and see why its bad having too much oil. and then get back to you lol

too much oil pressurises the case and blows the oil seals and could also put a fair amount of pressure under the piston, something has to give!

[Kelum]

I found..

There is DEFINITELY harm in having too much engine oil. The most common problem is -- believe it or not -- lack of lubrication caused by low oil pressure. What happens is the crankshaft "whips" the oil in the oil pan into a foam. The foamed oil is then pushed through the lubrication system. The air bubbles causes a drop in oil pressure and less oil is delivered to moving parts. This results in increased wear, lower fuel economy, higher temperatures and generally just a Whole Lot Of Bad Things.

The action of the crankshaft whipping up the oil also robs the engine of some power; it takes effort to push the crankshaft through all that extra oil.

Drain the oil to the proper level.

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You'll also blow out your engine seals. Gaskets that keep oil from getting into the wrong places. Replacement means engine removal.

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it can also cause stuttering, bounced checks, male pattern baldness, halitosis, some rare untreatable malignancies and severe birth defects.

don't risk it, drain a couple quarts out!

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Have none of you heard of hydrolock? How about the piston attempting to submerge itself in oil, and the rod bending/breaking? Oil doesn't compress. It is the foundation for hydraulics.

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[Paulwhite]

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it can also cause stuttering, bounced checks, male pattern baldness, halitosis, some rare untreatable malignancies and severe birth defects.

ha ha! lol so true