Some noob questions for the seasoned riders among you...

[2010yammyybr125]

Hello folks,

Having only done about 200 miles since I got my YBR (I'm not counting however many miles I did way back when I had my first bike in '93), I was wondering if some of you could help me with some noob questions?

1) When I come up to a red light (for instance) I go... See red light, clutch in, down down down down to first gear, coast to a stop at the light still in first with the clutch in, ready to go again. Is that bad for my engine? It's what I used to do before, but neither of my CBT instructors ever actually told me what I should be doing. Should I be changing gear down one at a time with throttle in between? Because the bike doesn't seem to like that (it goes a bit lurchy), and there's not always time.

When I'm cruising along in 5th, not full throttle (because the manual says NO FULL THROTTLE!!!! between 90-300 miles), at 50ish mph on a nicely tarmacked road, what should my revs be? Because my manual says during break-in, don't run at 6000 revs for extended periods, but in the above scenario, my engine is doing between 5-6k revs as standard. Purring along nicely though, it doesn't sound like it's working particularly hard or anything. Is that too high?

lastly) On this particular country lane I've travelled a couple of times, where the road has obviously been mullered by tractors or something and the first layer of tarmac is gone in some places, and there's re-tarmaced bits in others, my handling is REALLY sketchy. It feels like the bike is wobbling all over the place trying to throw me off. Is this the road or my (stock) tyres? I don't remember it being this bad with my old bike and I lived in an even more rural area then. Although that was a DT50 MX so I think it had more chunky tyres? I'm getting Michelin Pilot Sportys next weekend - do you think that will improve the handling on less than perfectly tarmacked roads or should I just avoid them in future?

Sorry for the essay. Hope someone can help

[Airhead]

Hi O_M. When slowing for lights I go down down down but only to second, then just before the bike stops snick it into neutral, It's easier on the clutch and stops any tendency for the bike to pull a little for example if the engine was cold and the oil thick. Well thats what I do but nobodys watching me

As the running in goes it sounds like you know what youre doing and the engine is easy so carry on with it.

Tyres I dunno, try avoid the worst of the ruts and check your pressures are good.

[Cynic]

Got to be honest after 25 years on motorbikes i couldnt tell you what gear i'm in, if the bike is labouring i change down if its racing i change up. Which one don't really matter so long as the engine's happy.

I will quite often run up to the lights gradually dropping a gear at a time, that way if the lights change your ready to go.

Your method OM will leave you in the wrong gear, the time it takes to sort out which one you need in bad traffic could be dangerous to you or others as you may panic/ pick a gear too high and stall, even fall over cos you forgot to put your feet down. You can laugh but i've seen it first hand. Other car drivers wont understand the issue and will have no consideration.

Rolling holding the clutch is classed as coasting which is badly frowend upon buy instructors etc. Essentialy the vehicle is not under full control, a bike is most stable when under power no mater how slight, coasting will at the very least cause chain snatch which if your chain is badly adjusted may cause it to jump the sprockets Unlikely but possible none the less.

As far as the handling goes, when i moved from a 50 to a GP 100 i could lean the bike over far enough to run out of ground clearance on either side. 20+ years later i'm nowhere near that level (spending a lifetime not leaning in cars/trucks don't help). Relax and ride with confidence, you may actually be feeling your own nervousness as you tighten your grip on the bars. People say "The most important part of a bike's handling is the nut(er) holding the bars", personally i don't thing they are far off the mark.

Oh and running it in, so long as you don't rag it to death, forget about it. Modern engines and machining are so much better that the initial running period to settle everything in is pretty redundant.

We didn't run our car in when we got it over a decade (90000+ miles) ago and apart from avoiding wide open flat out running i have never botherd on any of my rebores/bigbores etc.

[christofeser]

I think Cynic hit the nail on the head. When I started I used to get caught out loads in 1st gear when the lights turn green and I'm still doing 20-30mph! NOT GOOD.

If you can see the light on red start breaking easily, and get your revs right BEFORE you change down again. If you need to get used to this, try shifting down GRADUALLY as you get towards the light and as you slow down. You should already know by now your gear ratios so try and adjust your speed to what gear you are in...

Shifting from 2nd into Neutral is always a handy tactic that a lot of people often overlook. Takes some practise to get it just right though .

Is the country road like semi-gravelly? And is the problem mainly when you're breaking? It could just be a the standardly "Loose road surface" problem - in which case use your back brake more than your front.

You'll get things moving you about all over, be it grooves in the road, wind, or loose stuff here and there. You'll get used to it and learn to avoid it eventually.

but what do I know - I'm still on L plates!

[chris66]

going from 5th to first with clutch held in cant be done on many bikes.

i have always changed down gears as the the bike speed decreased until second then if i need to stop then put it straight into neutral.

this way if the lights suddenly change and you are not made to stop you are in the correct gear to continue.

your way will catch you out eventually, if the lights change before you stop[ you will be fumbling for the right gear, and as you are new you will probably have to stop and find first holding everybody up. chris

[Mark K]

Yup, the stock tyres are terrible and do give you an uneasy feeling on rough roads, particularly in the wet. The Michelins you're fitting will make it feel like a completely different bike.

I change down when the bike wants to go down, and usually roll up to the lights still in 2nd until the last second.

My old YBR used to be a bit sticky going from 2nd to 1st or neutral whilst stopped so I'd change to 1st just a second before it completely stopped (08 model). I never get this problem with my 09 model.

[Gas up - Let's Go!]

Lots of variation on how different peole ride, and that's the point to take onboard. We each find our own comfortable way of riding, and it changes as the seasons do and with experience.

Now (a he puts on his IAM hat), the safe way (read the IAM way!) is to remain in a responsive gear at all times (except of course when 'cruising') so that would be to downshift as you slow, keeping the revs and speed matched by way of clutch controll. When you stop, you 'should' be in neutral with your foot on the rear brake. When the lights change you do the old Hendon Shuffle to get it into gear and go. The reason for this is in case someone rear ends you, it's safer for you! However you'll soon notice that it takes you an age to get off the line....

What I do, (taking his IAM hat off again)depends on the situation, if I filter to the front I'll be in the right gear for the speed (bike and traffic dependant), as in a responsive gear (and like Cynic, I usually have no idea what gear I'm in) and slowly filter to the front, and I mean slowly, pretty much a bit slower than walking pace. It's not often I have to 'go' from a stationary possition at lights while filtering. Oh, and make sure you plan each car you take with a way of geting back into traffic if it starts to moves (becuase it then changes from filtering to overtaking!). Then again I've had lots of practice and on a good day I can pretty much balance the bike at near stationary speeds anyway - A good trick to practice in a car park on a Sunday morning and it always looks cool too.

If I'm the first to the lights, I'll go into neutral and use the rear brake, onca I have a car behind me I'll get ready yo go in anticipation of the lights changing.

There is only a right and wrong way during training and testing - every other time you'll do just what you feel comfortable with, if its wrong it'll stay wrong until something happens to cause you to rethink.

I wouldn't get too hung up on what you should be doing, just do what you do and each time ask yourself if you feel safe, is there something you can do differently, etc etc

Running in, I think you are doing just fine.

Riding rough surfaces is always a bit funny on road tyres. I have a Tenere, and it just soaks up that sort of stuff, the TTR doesn't even notice it (although to be fair, it's normally alot commother that the normal terrain for that bike), on the XJR though, it can be a total 'mare. Road bike are ment for roads, it's just how life is, and if you want better controll on the rough stuff you'll need tyres to suit, but you will loose controll on the smooth faster stuff - it's always a trade off. Remember that a bike carrying speed will handle the rough crap easier, as long as you are moving you will not fall off, unless you are mid corner, but why would you get some lean on a rough road anyway? These types of raods alway favour the trail bikes, on many occasion I've left supersport bikes behind in a clowd if dusty & stones on a 40hp trail bike, tyres and suspension count for alot. When the road opens up they pass and are gone, but it's fun passing them...

If you want to improve your riding, buy yourself a copy of Roadcraft, The Police Riders Handbook - it will teach you to think about things for yorself.

[2010yammyybr125]

Thanks guys

So... It's OK to go from 2nd to neutral then? I've done it by accident a couple of times but I thought it was a bad thing. Can I go back up from neutral to 2nd too? Without breaking the engine, I mean? Can I start the bike from a stop that way?

So far (touch wood) I've not had any embarassing moments at lights or anything after stopping / slowing down to first. It's just hills that are my nemesis

I'm quite looking forward to getting new tyres, lots of people have said how much of a difference they make. I've got to do 350 miles in the next 3 weeks so I can book in for its first service, and just the thought of better tyres gives me more confidence

[2010yammyybr125]

There is only a right and wrong way during training and testing - every other time you'll do just what you feel comfortable with, if its wrong it'll stay wrong until something happens to cause you to rethink.

I wouldn't get too hung up on what you should be doing, just do what you do and each time ask yourself if you feel safe, is there something you can do differently, etc etc

Thanks Gas up

Thing is, I'm planning on taking my A1 sometime in the next year, so I really need to get into the habit of doing things the 'right' way. By the book, as it were.

Oh, and I haven't even attempted filtering yet - too scary!

[Gas up - Let's Go!]

Thing is, I'm planning on taking my A1 sometime in the next year, so I really need to get into the habit of doing things the 'right' way. By the book, as it were.

In that case, you would be best advised to get yourself to an instructor and see what they say. Teaching methods change, as do tests (I'm not sure if the new 'free driving' section of the car test will make it to Motorcycles, but it would be intersting...) so I couldn't possibly advise on what is 'correct', what is right for learning isn't right at advanced, and visa-versa.

The DSA has a book out, can't remember it's name, but it does give the low down on thier approach to riding - might be worth a read? There is also a DVD called 'Better Biking' which is a training aid.