Moderator Airhead Posted January 12, 2011 Moderator Posted January 12, 2011 no wonder it stripped gears totally different thread pitch add shims to reduce pump stroke yes but I think it is not possible on later style pumps, ie the ones with a push on cover over the bleed instead of a screw plug. not 100% on that but I think I read it somewhere between Haynes pages
Vez Posted January 13, 2011 Posted January 13, 2011 You say you have 2 engines, have you taken the drive shaft out of the spare and compared the 2. Do you have the pump on the other engine or did that die in the second test. Think this was a case of too many cooks spoil the broth as the answer was here all along. There's adjustment on the 2-stroke pump cable. Also the option of adjusting the throttle cable junction box. Both worth checking for incorrect adjustment before going down the shim route imo. TO add a picture click the icon to the right of the link icon and past the URL in the popup box, or use img the code below
Dooooogster Posted January 14, 2011 Author Posted January 14, 2011 That's twice cynic has hit the nail on the head. A bit spookie really. 1st was spotting that my bike cutting out wasn't an electrical problem but the cylinder going tight around the barrel due to lack of oil (see my other post) and then suggesting that the oil drive should be compared on this post. 100% - Great forum, great folk. Many thanks.
YPVS TONE Posted January 15, 2011 Posted January 15, 2011 I think you will find that by adding shims (item 14 in exploded diagram) that you will increase the minimum pump stroke and make the pump deliver more oil. Usually once set this rarely needs adjusting but it is best to check now and again. To check run the engine on tickover and watch the adjusting plate (item 13) which you should see move in and out a small amount.Now when it is at its furthest most point out hit the kiil switch and measure the distance between the adjusting plate and the raised part of the pump pulley. On the early DTRs 3DB1 prefix the clearance should be 0.20-0.25mm or 8-10 thou and the later DTRs 3RN1 prefix 0.15-0.20mm or 6-8 thou.If necessary remove the small nut and washer(items 11 and 12) and remove the adjusting plate and add or subtract shims to get the clearance right. It is best to check a couple of times to make sure that the adjusting plate is at its furthest most point out before checking the gap. Tony.
shakey69s Posted December 19, 2012 Posted December 19, 2012 Im new to this so dont shout at me please,my question is are there any marks on the oil pump that should line up when the throttle cable is fully closed ? the reason i ask is because i have a dt125r 2002 model and i think the cable is too short and its keeping the 2 stroke oil pump fully open ?when i connect the cable to the pump i have to turn the pump head quite a good distance to hook the cable in.. i know tzr125s have marks to set the pump.
Moderator Airhead Posted December 19, 2012 Moderator Posted December 19, 2012 theres usually a little 'pip' cast into the face of the pulley and when the throttle is closed this should align with the pin thats screwed into the plunger shaft
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