Karranir Posted July 19, 2010 Posted July 19, 2010 So last night I messed with the clutch adjustment as per instructions elsewhere on the forums, and got it somewhere a lot more comfortable. Since my rib is still busted up and the doctor said I still can't ride until the end of the month, I took it around my drive-way to get a feel for it and see if that's where I'd like it. I pop the clutch on accident, and the bike dies. No big deal, I'll hit the electric start, which has worked incredibly faithfully so far. This time there's just a click. The bike is warm, and I kick start it and it fires right back up, happy as can be. I turn it off in the garage, electric start only clicks, but the kick start fires it back up once again. I park it in the garage overnight, and now the electric start will click and sound like it's trying to turn something over, and the kick start does nothing. Any suggestions? I'm thinking that maybe the previous owner hadn't ridden it much since the battery was replaced, and since I've been starting it and going under a 32nd of a mile and then putting it back in the garage I've killed the battery from not giving it time to charge. It's on the trickle charger, but was just wondering if anyone had any suggestions on anything else it could be.
HoughMade Posted July 19, 2010 Posted July 19, 2010 No other suggestions from me. Sounds like the battery. Charge it, then give it a shot. My bet is that if the battery will take a charge, it'll crank right over once it is charged.
johnsnownw Posted July 19, 2010 Posted July 19, 2010 No other suggestions from me. Sounds like the battery. Charge it, then give it a shot. My bet is that if the battery will take a charge, it'll crank right over once it is charged. I agree, sounds like a battery issue. The XS400 likes a full battery to start with the electronic ignition. Good Luck. Also, I suggest replacing your fuse box if you haven't yet. It's made a world of difference with mine.
Karranir Posted July 19, 2010 Author Posted July 19, 2010 She turned right over after awhile on the trickle charger! Hooray. Got new NGK caps while I was out, so I could install the BP7ES plugs I had bought, since they have a solid post. The caps look way better and somehow it had two completely different caps already? One was blank and one just said 'made in Japan'. Who knows, another mystery of the XS400. I want to replace the fuse box, I'm just not sure how I'd go about it. That seems a little daunting without any sort of direction or instruction. Before I put it away, I gave it a little gas (rev'd to like 4k) and... it stuck there, until I hit the kill switch. I've never had this happen, so it was a little confusing, and now I'm wondering what it could be? The carbs are likely dirty as sin, I've got a synchronizer on the way and was going to wait to mess with them until I get it. I hate working on the same part in pieces. But wouldn't a clog in the carbs cause it to run lean and putter down? Or could it maybe have made something stick? Even if this never happens again I want to do everything I can to make sure it never does! Thanks again guys, everyone here has been a huge help (even if just in the archives) in making fixing this bike up a really enjoyable experience.
johnsnownw Posted July 19, 2010 Posted July 19, 2010 She turned right over after awhile on the trickle charger! Hooray. Got new NGK caps while I was out, so I could install the BP7ES plugs I had bought, since they have a solid post. The caps look way better and somehow it had two completely different caps already? One was blank and one just said 'made in Japan'. Who knows, another mystery of the XS400. I want to replace the fuse box, I'm just not sure how I'd go about it. That seems a little daunting without any sort of direction or instruction. Before I put it away, I gave it a little gas (rev'd to like 4k) and... it stuck there, until I hit the kill switch. I've never had this happen, so it was a little confusing, and now I'm wondering what it could be? The carbs are likely dirty as sin, I've got a synchronizer on the way and was going to wait to mess with them until I get it. I hate working on the same part in pieces. But wouldn't a clog in the carbs cause it to run lean and putter down? Or could it maybe have made something stick? Even if this never happens again I want to do everything I can to make sure it never does! Thanks again guys, everyone here has been a huge help (even if just in the archives) in making fixing this bike up a really enjoyable experience. It's actually extremely easy to change out the fuse box. I replaced mine with inline mini blade fuse holders. You just purchase them from an auto parts store, or Radio Shack. Then you just clip the two wires from each individual fuse and solder them to the new inline fuse holders. You need 4 inline fuse holders, one for each fuse line, and just go from one fuse to the next. If you know how to solder it will probably only take you about 30-45 min to change out.
exess4 Posted July 19, 2010 Posted July 19, 2010 Before I put it away, I gave it a little gas (rev'd to like 4k) and... it stuck there, I forgot how long youre bike has sat etc. but for throttle cable etc I'm sure that you have one of these Cable Luber to start, and no frays or snags in the wire.
Karranir Posted July 19, 2010 Author Posted July 19, 2010 Hurf durf I dunno why I didn't even think of the possibility of it being a throttle cable problem, but that's a really good tip, I'll check it out tomorrow and definitely lube it. Just another item I need to buy for this damn bike. I can't wait to get the balancer in (JC Whitney hasn't shipped it yet, and come to think of it, Z1 Enterprises hasn't even sent me a receipt or even a confirmation e-mail for the carb holders so I'm kinda scared...) because I think that will really solve a lot of problems. Maybe I can even find someone with a ColorTune I can borrow, but I kinda doubt it. Also, pictures, ratty ass paint job and all:
Karranir Posted July 28, 2010 Author Posted July 28, 2010 Two more questions, didn't wanna start ANOTHER new thread. Can anyone suggest a way to make a XS400 feel a little more... stable? It's not like it's a scary shake, it just feels like there's gotta be a way to make her feel a little more stable on the road. She turns just fine, no shaking in corners, it just gets unnerving when you add in a heavy wind. And my headlight refuses to come back on. It was turning on and off, then just gave up. All the other lights are fine. Assuming the fuses look okay (I really need to replace the old box like everyone else has...) where should I start looking for a short? My tachometer shakes like a bastard so I'm thinking it might have to do with the high beam indicator light or something? I really know nothing about electronics, any help on where to start looking for the issue would be really appreciated. Going to a cycle junkyard tomorrow! Hoping to find a seat in good condition, mine is pretty ratty. Anyone got any suggestions on things I should look for, things that would be OK to take off an old bike that are prone to failure? Can I replace just the tach or will I need to snag an entire cluster?
johnsnownw Posted July 28, 2010 Posted July 28, 2010 Two more questions, didn't wanna start ANOTHER new thread. Can anyone suggest a way to make a XS400 feel a little more... stable? It's not like it's a scary shake, it just feels like there's gotta be a way to make her feel a little more stable on the road. She turns just fine, no shaking in corners, it just gets unnerving when you add in a heavy wind. And my headlight refuses to come back on. It was turning on and off, then just gave up. All the other lights are fine. Assuming the fuses look okay (I really need to replace the old box like everyone else has...) where should I start looking for a short? My tachometer shakes like a bastard so I'm thinking it might have to do with the high beam indicator light or something? I really know nothing about electronics, any help on where to start looking for the issue would be really appreciated. Going to a cycle junkyard tomorrow! Hoping to find a seat in good condition, mine is pretty ratty. Anyone got any suggestions on things I should look for, things that would be OK to take off an old bike that are prone to failure? Can I replace just the tach or will I need to snag an entire cluster? I would recommend purchasing a new headlight relay, it could be as simple as a faulty relay.
HoughMade Posted July 28, 2010 Posted July 28, 2010 Also, I suggest replacing your fuse box if you haven't yet. It's made a world of difference with mine. I agree- I took about 2 or 3 hours on Saturday and completely replaced mine, but within the original box. I also took every electrical connection apart I could reach (one at a time) and cleaned the connections. Believe it or not, I noticed the difference the moment I turned on the ignition switch- even the indicator lights were brighter.
Moderator drewpy Posted July 28, 2010 Moderator Posted July 28, 2010 I borrowed a colortune, it was rubbish, could'nt determine any colour change, so i gave up and tried the alternative way of setting up the pilot mix. 1) get a spare plug and replace one ht lead to that. you are only running one cylinder so will need to raise the tickover. 2) tweak the pilot mix screw till you get higher revs (then lower the tickover so it don't rev too much) 3) keep going till the bike starts to lower again, then go the other way 4) take the median between both points and thats the optimum mix 5) repeat the other side
Karranir Posted July 29, 2010 Author Posted July 29, 2010 I would recommend purchasing a new headlight relay, it could be as simple as a faulty relay. Could you show me where this is on a fiche? Is it the $70 relay assembly... Edit: Just found out that the brake light doesn't turn on either now, as well as the headlight low/hi. Does this help anyone figure it out?
johnsnownw Posted July 29, 2010 Posted July 29, 2010 Could you show me where this is on a fiche? Is it the $70 relay assembly... Edit: Just found out that the brake light doesn't turn on either now, as well as the headlight low/hi. Does this help anyone figure it out? It is number 8 in the schematic I've linked for you: http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/showschematic/m8261sch212889 Drewpy may have a better idea of where to get these cheaper though, as the one at bikebandit is listed at $121, which is outrageous.
Moderator drewpy Posted July 29, 2010 Moderator Posted July 29, 2010 It is number 8 in the schematic I've linked for you: http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/showschematic/m8261sch212889 Drewpy may have a better idea of where to get these cheaper though, as the one at bikebandit is listed at $121, which is outrageous. If its just a 12 v relay, take the part down to radio shack (or whatever you have there) and match it up. pretty simple electro mechanical devices.
Karranir Posted July 29, 2010 Author Posted July 29, 2010 The mystery deepens... So with the key all the way to the right, all the lights work. With it in the middle, at the running position, none do. Problem at the key...? What does this meaaaan?!
Moderator drewpy Posted July 29, 2010 Moderator Posted July 29, 2010 The mystery deepens... So with the key all the way to the right, all the lights work. With it in the middle, at the running position, none do. Problem at the key...? What does this meaaaan?! all the way to the right is the parking lights ( in UK law we have to have parking lights on, on an unlit road) mid way, may the lights only come on when the bike is running as it may have another replay for the lamps powered from the alternator, being us model.
HoughMade Posted July 29, 2010 Posted July 29, 2010 On U.S. bikes, the headlight only works when the engine is running- the tail, brake and turn signals should work, though.
johnsnownw Posted July 29, 2010 Posted July 29, 2010 all the way to the right is the parking lights ( in UK law we have to have parking lights on, on an unlit road) mid way, may the lights only come on when the bike is running as it may have another replay for the lamps powered from the alternator, being us model. On my bike, though an 80, the only light that doesn't come on until the bike is running is the headlight. I don't believe the brake light would have a relay. Maybe he needs a new ignition switch?
Karranir Posted July 29, 2010 Author Posted July 29, 2010 Yeah, doesn't change with the engine running. Won't come on at all unless it's on the accessory setting (the key all the way to the right). I guess I'll monkey around tomorrow and see if maybe I shook something loose. It was working fine until half way down the road, so here's hoping. I just don't get, with my limited knowledge of wiring and such, how this could be possible. It seems anything is. Also, I found more XS400 parts at a local salvage yard then I've ever friggin' heard of. Just strewn about in boxes, labeled by manufacturer, type of part, and engine size. They had probably a hundred bikes in the basement, in various states of disassembly. I saw a couple XS models. Going to bring my gauge cluster in soon, so the guy can be positive the one he's selling me will work. There were a few similar, but he doesn't want me to think I'm doing 35 when I'm doing 70, that sort of deal. The fella /gave/ me a nut and rubber washer deal hoping I could fix my gauges, but no-go since there's a chunk taken off the bolt it threads onto. The guy actually gave me a part, hoping I wouldn't have to buy another one from him! Really impressed with them. They have a separate new/NOS parts store too, where I managed to find UNI bulk filter foam.
Karranir Posted July 31, 2010 Author Posted July 31, 2010 Nobody has any more suggestions? This is driving me crazy! I wish I knew how to use a damn multimeter, I've just sort of been poking around the wiring, making sure everything is plugged in, etc... To recap, with the bike running, the headlight and tail light won't turn on (everything else will though). With the key all the way to the right, the accessory/parking light setting or whatever, the headlight will come on. No brake light either way. What could this possibly be? Does this still sound like the relay to you fellas? Should I try doing what bznchris did here and see if the headlight will come on? But I don't get how it could be the relay when the tail light won't come on either. Baahhhhh! I'm gonna keep cleaning connections and checking the wiring, bah.
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