Moderator Airhead Posted July 4, 2010 Moderator Share Posted July 4, 2010 So can this be cleaned whilst the engine it out? Chris cant be done with it in lol, anyhow it may not be that. If it is though more special tools are needed...ie a valve spring compressor to get the collets out to enable valve to be removed, then some valve lapping pastes and a sucker to spin the valve, Oh its been so long ago for me to get delved into a four stroke all in all I think you are being optimistic about the time scales involved once you start to work on this bike, who knows how long it will take the shop to order parts? We are just pointing out possibilities here, only when you strip the motor will you find the reason for the lack of compression, so i'll shut up now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christofeser Posted July 4, 2010 Author Share Posted July 4, 2010 haha cheers Well, I think I'm going to have to run her into the mechanic - that's the safest option. If he quotes me too much, like £500 plus, I'll buy a new bloody bike for under a grand and try fix the yamaha myself! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulwhite Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 hi again soz about not replying the site was playin up lol a simple test to see if its ur valves or piston rings is a compression check then do it again but put oil in the cylinders if the compression goes up then its ur rings if it dont go up by much then slowly goes down then its ur valves. if its your valves then ur in for a whole world of trouble! i tried to check mine the other day but the valve covers were seized tight and i couldnt take them off to save my life. and you dont need to take the engine out, the cylinder bolts have enough room to just slide out then there is plenty of room to slide the cylinder off the piston. its quite daunting doing it for the 1st time and it is a fairly big job but trust me its dead simple and should only take 2-3 hours per cylinder (max!) but thats just how long it took me going at a snails pace and having a fag and brew every 5 min lol but if you dont feel confident enough then probably best to get a mechanic to do it, or watch ur friend and learn (personally i learn better doing it myself) so yeah let us know whats happening and good luck m8. hopefully 6th time lucky at putting up this post!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christofeser Posted July 5, 2010 Author Share Posted July 5, 2010 Right yeah the forum has been playing up a little. Spoke to the mechanic this morning. FML, he said I'm looking at 300 minimum, that EVEN IF it's JUST the piston rings. There's a fine working xvs125 engine on ebay - £375 or make offer. Surely It would be wiser to buy the engine and refit, whilst trying to fix the original engine?? At least then I'll have a bike that works... Only one thing - it's a 2000 engine, when my bike is 2002. Should that be a prob. ? Cheers Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulwhite Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 oh and forgot to mention if you go to the dealer for parts as long as there in europe then u should get them in a week, if there closer then say 2-3 days but if they need to make them then ur gonna be waiting a while. but pistons and rings (assuming ur getting the pistons with rings on them) should only take 2-3 days to get to u. and last but not least if you take the bike into the mechanics striped ready for the job it will cost less and it should take 1-2 hours for a qualified mechanic to do it, so double check the invoice. Going by how much parts cost and the labour charge at the cmc nearest me your looking at around the £140 mark for parts and labour to replace the pistons, (thats £40 per hour for 2 hours and £60 for your pistons) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christofeser Posted July 5, 2010 Author Share Posted July 5, 2010 Bought engine for 325. Gonna pick it up wednesday morn and hopefully slish it over wednesday afternoon. That hard much? Anyway the plan of action is to install the new one (which - ironically - isnt new, rather has done around 18,000 miles) whilst fixing the old one - might get a bob or two for it once I'm done. Anyone interested in an engine? So yeah. wish me luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulwhite Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 good luck lol iv just swapped the heads on mine and iv got to re-do all the timing but yeah just hope there isnt anything wrong with this one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christofeser Posted July 5, 2010 Author Share Posted July 5, 2010 you know what i REALLY fancy doing with the old engine (if i can get it fixed)... I'm trying to get hold of a Kikker Hardknock, without the engine - they don't come V twin and was wondering if they could accomodate my spare one I would love to try that Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christofeser Posted July 6, 2010 Author Share Posted July 6, 2010 Okay so gonna change the engine over. Got it down to the point where I have to take the carb out. Just in case anyone has a browse in the next 5, before I attempt doing so, is it simply a case of disconnecting everything to it and popping it out? That's the way the service manual makes it seem? Chris EDIT Got the carb off. Now struglling with exhaust + mufflers. The screws for the first one (the rear/top) one are just knackered What can be done to this? I've got like the starred ones but even my drill wont get them out, and then if it does turn slightly, it's only to knacker the bolt even more! Ach what should I do?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulwhite Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 ahh yes the infamous dragstar bolts. i just about managed to get a spanner on the bolt of mine and it came off with a bit of gentle force, but if yours are really screwed then get a hacksaw on the bolt heads and chop them off then when your exhaust is off you can get a decent set of monkey grips on them and slowly undo them, there is a little trick with a bunson burner, if you heat them up then let them cool down (dont put water on them) then the rust should come loose just enough for you to take them out. but ur best bet is to get them out any way possible then buy new ones to replace them. nearly every other bolt snaped or seized on mine when i took it appart seems to be same with alot of other xvs 125's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christofeser Posted July 7, 2010 Author Share Posted July 7, 2010 cut it off - gonna have to buy a new one because on the new engine - it doesnt have the bent bit that goes round to the side... see? So yeah gonna have to (somehow) get the old bolt out. Unfortunately, I don't just have bunsen burners knocking about. haha. I'll find a way. You taken your engine out yet?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ttaskmaster Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 Forget a bunsen burner. Use a small gas blowtorch. Get one in almost any DIY shop. I have a small gas soldering iron with the same function. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christofeser Posted July 7, 2010 Author Share Posted July 7, 2010 Just like two bolts to come out before the engine can be removed. I think I'll wait until someone else comes home... it's rather heavy Anyway, silly Yamaha have kinda of hidden the bolt behind the shifter, prohibiting me from removing it. Moreover, the rear fixer bolt is stuck too, under the weight of the engine. GRRRRR I wish I had of just never broken down! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2 Wheels Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 Have ya done any checks to your other engine that your putting in to see that all is ok with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christofeser Posted July 7, 2010 Author Share Posted July 7, 2010 It was sold as a "working" engine from a reputable breakers near me. I'm sure if it's not, in fact, working than they WILL give me a refund. I've packed up for the night with the original engine still on. I cant get the last bolt out (the one behind the gear shifter)... I cant, easily, get the gear shifter off either, due to one of the bolts being too close to a weld and me not being able to get round it. Moreover, I've been working alone today. I've got a friend coming tomorrow with his torque wrench and professional socket set so hopefully will have it all done and back on by tomorrow. Will help to lift the engine which is rather heavy. But, if this last bolt wont come out, will I have to cut it? Silly question, of course I will. But, WILL I be able to cut it? Or are they heavy duty? Cheers Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulwhite Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 cut it off - gonna have to buy a new one because on the new engine - it doesnt have the bent bit that goes round to the side... see? So yeah gonna have to (somehow) get the old bolt out. Unfortunately, I don't just have bunsen burners knocking about. haha. I'll find a way. You taken your engine out yet?? i ment cut the bolt off. and i did mean a blow torch but couldnt think of the name earlyer lol and if your in need of that bendy bit for the exhaust (think its the link to the rear exhaust that goes between the head and exhaust) iv got an old one in one peice if you want it just give me the dosh for p+p and its urs m8, with reguards to the last bolt ur better off takin the shifter arm off to gain access then soak it in wd40 over night then get a decent socket set on it, should do the job and last but not least iv sorted my engine out on monday and didnt need to take the engine out so iv now got an xv 125 virago engine with dragstar heads and it runns pretty sweet . just put the straight through exhaust on and jetted the carb today to see how it runs race- tuned lol.....beefy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2 Wheels Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 But, if this last bolt wont come out, will I have to cut it? Silly question, of course I will. But, WILL I be able to cut it? Or are they heavy duty? Cheers Chris There is a saying ......."if something is not working out the way it should then you are doing something wrong" I wouldnt go cutting anything,,,,you will need it for reasembly. It might come out with a little bit of moveing the engine in different angles. Check it all out before you do anything drastic....... Best tip is Take your time and try not to overlook anything.......even if you are in a hurry to get back on the road !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christofeser Posted July 7, 2010 Author Share Posted July 7, 2010 Thank you once again for all the valuable input I never fail to receive on the forum. I'll have a look at it tomorrow and analyse the situation. I've tried taking the shifter off but, as I said, one of the two bolts holding it on is buggered. I've tried manouvering the engine to create space too, but that puts pressure on the bolt and it refuses to move. Perhaps tomorrow when I'll have another person on the case I'll be able to do so. With regards to the "bendy thing" thanks for the offer. In my bank I currently have £0.03 with an available balance of £0.00 . Considering I've just spent £325 on an engine, I think I'll re-use the already fitted one... with the "bunsen burner" hahaha. It got me thinking - "how many bikers must have bunsens lying about". Three types - chemisty teachers, chemistry students, or crack-cookers. once again, thanks for taking an interest. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christofeser Posted July 8, 2010 Author Share Posted July 8, 2010 We realised this morning that the bolt was going nowhere, so it unfortunately perished at the hands of my hacksaw. "Of with it's head!" - we shouted, as it we perilously gnawed it onto the floor. BUT the engine has now been excavated from the frame. It's off to the harware store now to buy a new bolt for the engine, a new bolt for the exhaust "bended bit", and a new bunsen burner (hehe) to get the old bolt out! About the old bolt though - it REALLY doesn't want to move. grr. I'll find something. All there is now to look forward to is putting an identical unit back in again! (and probably getting some wires/pipes crossed and F**king the whole thing up. grr Cheers again Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted July 8, 2010 Moderator Share Posted July 8, 2010 Dont try to get that bolt out yet you may make things ten times worse, post a picture Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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