Jump to content

1980 XS400 Clutch doesn't engage till 99% let out


kindest
This post is 5053 days old and we'd rather you create a new post instead of adding to this one. You can't reply in this post.

Recommended Posts

just bought a bike for 500 bucks.. an 1980 XS400 Special II. Drove it home 10 miles

even on freeway etc and it runs real good.. goes thru the gears no problem.. the only thing is that the clutch

doesn't engage till the lever is 99% out.. is this normal or do I need

new parts for the clutch.. I tried messing with the cable via the handlebars but it didn't help.

I haven't tried messing with the clutch main adjustment nut thing yet.

thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you want an ad-free experience? Join today and help support the Yamaha Owners Club.

Loosen up the cable, then adjust the main clutch adjustment, then adjust the cable. Until you do that, we can't figure out if the problem goes deeper. My sense is that the adjustments will probably do it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Loosen up the cable, then adjust the main clutch adjustment, then adjust the cable. Until you do that, we can't figure out if the problem goes deeper. My sense is that the adjustments will probably do it.

thanks. I will do this. I was scared it was definately the sign of something bad.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ugh I just tried to adjust the main nut and screw and the thing will not budge under any circumstances.

I did "Here's what you do. Get a 6 or 12 point 12MM deep socket. Put it over the lock nut, hold the socket with a vise-grip. Insert a Phillips head screwdriver (through the 3/8 or 1/2" opening where the ratchet attaches) and holding the screw stationary, turn the socket counter clockwise to loosen the lock nut. Make necessary adjustments. To tighten the screw after adjustment, hold the screwdriver steady and turn the socket clockwise to tighten the nut." from this thread..

http://www.yamahaclub.com/forums//index.php?showtopic=21465&st=0&p=120461&hl=+clutch%20+screw&fromsearch=1&#entry120461

any tricks or tips to bust that nut loose?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderator

ugh I just tried to adjust the main nut and screw and the thing will not budge under any circumstances.

I did "Here's what you do. Get a 6 or 12 point 12MM deep socket. Put it over the lock nut, hold the socket with a vise-grip. Insert a Phillips head screwdriver (through the 3/8 or 1/2" opening where the ratchet attaches) and holding the screw stationary, turn the socket counter clockwise to loosen the lock nut. Make necessary adjustments. To tighten the screw after adjustment, hold the screwdriver steady and turn the socket clockwise to tighten the nut." from this thread..

http://www.yamahaclub.com/forums//index.php?showtopic=21465&st=0&p=120461&hl=+clutch%20+screw&fromsearch=1&#entry120461

any tricks or tips to bust that nut loose?

you could turn the socket and screwdriver so it all come out and then see if the nut is damaged

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you could turn the socket and screwdriver so it all come out and then see if the nut is damaged

ugh.. this thing is like red loctited or something.. it will not move at all.

the whole thing will move like a 1/4 turn and take the whole cable with it but the minute I let tension up

it snaps back to place..

debating trying an impact screw driver on the set screw.. what do you think?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Were it me, I'd take sprocket cover off, take the whole clutch actuator off the sprocket cover from behind, then work on it on the bench. Having done that, my rule of thumb is that if it too tight, it needs heat. Not red hot, just enough flame to warm things up. I use MAPP, but propane would work. I would only do that if the part is removed, like I said. Mine was so tight it almost sounded like it was breaking when I finally got it free.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Were it me, I'd take sprocket cover off, take the whole clutch actuator off the sprocket cover from behind, then work on it on the bench. Having done that, my rule of thumb is that if it too tight, it needs heat. Not red hot, just enough flame to warm things up. I use MAPP, but propane would work. I would only do that if the part is removed, like I said. Mine was so tight it almost sounded like it was breaking when I finally got it free.

dunno maybe its like mine ... i would turn mine 1/4th counter-clockwise and hit major resistance (cable will move when you try to loosen it), just got to go through it. It will make a snap sound like something broke inside, but thats just the locknut snapping loose. if yours looks like isnt rusted, just apply more force than you think. I was messing with it 5 times last month and had no problems.

PS you dont need the vise-grip to get it off with the socket... use the socket wrench, it'll give you a better grip/force... u only need the visegrip instructoins when you made the screw adjustment aftwerwards... You need to hold the screw inside stationary (with a screwdriver going through the socket) while you turn the locknut clockwise with the visegrip.

PS having one of these box spanners is nice to have on hand.

u can use the 12mm socket side on one of the spanners, and then use a 17mm wrench on the '13mm' side (13mm+extra steel) and tighten it without using a visegrip. (visegrip will work as good, but i hate it when it slips or scratches up

my shiny socket hehe).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

dunno maybe its like mine ... i would turn mine 1/4th counter-clockwise and hit major resistance (cable will move when you try to loosen it), just got to go through it. It will make a snap sound like something broke inside, but thats just the locknut snapping loose. if yours looks like isnt rusted, just apply more force than you think. I was messing with it 5 times last month and had no problems.

PS you dont need the vise-grip to get it off with the socket... use the socket wrench, it'll give you a better grip/force... u only need the visegrip instructoins when you made the screw adjustment aftwerwards... You need to hold the screw inside stationary (with a screwdriver going through the socket) while you turn the locknut clockwise with the visegrip.

PS having one of these box spanners is nice to have on hand.

u can use the 12mm socket side on one of the spanners, and then use a 17mm wrench on the '13mm' side (13mm+extra steel) and tighten it without using a visegrip. (visegrip will work as good, but i hate it when it slips or scratches up

my shiny socket hehe).

oh ok I thought I had to hold that screw steady.. I will try just the socket.

the kicker is I bought the exact same motorcycle today for 100 bucks (parts bike) w/ siezed motor and pretty rusty

and that damn screw turns no problem. ARGH! lol

ok update. I broke it free. I guess I was being a lady... I really put some torque on it and it did make a snap crackle pop sound but its all adjusted now and the clutch is engaging much earlier in the release. thanks everyone.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Who's Online (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...