2wheelsbetterthan4 Posted June 21, 2010 Share Posted June 21, 2010 I am a complete mechanical novice, and have taken ownership over a very neglected DT125R, and have sought, and received help here, when I first took the bike over, under the title of "help needed", about how to begin recovering it to a road worthy state. I am now at the stage of re-fitting the carburettor I have cleaned, and after further advice,I have also replaced the reeds in the reed block. Firstly, whilst using the torque wrench, set to 1.0 for the reed block assembly bolts, as instructed in the manual, one of the bolts sheared off in the housing, and now I am worried that if I ever have to remove the reed block housing again, I am only going to have a very difficult time. Have I got to remove, somehow, the snapped bolt now? as the reed block housing feels very secure, can anyone explain why it snapped, and the others never, and offer any advice/tips of what I should do? Secondly, there was a small piece of pipe already snapped off on the R/H/Side of the carburettor, above the port where the fuel pipe connects, and slightly behind the oil warmer pipe port, and there was no evidence of what it should be connecting?, and I can not, (probably due to gross ignorance) find in the manual what the port is? the snapped pipe is connected to, and what its role is in the carburettor operation. file:///C:/Users/Robbie/Pictures/Motorbikes/Carb.jpg (If you highlight this file address, then right click on it, scroll down to Robbie/Pictures/Motorbike, then left click, it will open a picture I have taken, and hopefully will make things a lot clearer, what I am trying to explain) I would be most grateful for any assistance, as even though greatly frustrated by the massive learning curve I am on, I am still enjoying myself, and the bike is looking 100% better already! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted June 21, 2010 Moderator Share Posted June 21, 2010 Robbie either there is something wrong with your torque wrench, or you had it set wrong. It has to be one hell of a way out to actuelly shear the bolt! If you are so much a novice as even needing a torgue wrench when only a nip was required then I would cross your fingers, smear some liguid silicone gasket around the flange and leave well alone because it is going to be a big job to get that sheared bolt out, if indeed it can be done. That picture link ?? see FAQ's for posting oictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2wheelsbetterthan4 Posted June 22, 2010 Author Share Posted June 22, 2010 Robbie either there is something wrong with your torque wrench, or you had it set wrong. It has to be one hell of a way out to actuelly shear the bolt! If you are so much a novice as even needing a torgue wrench when only a nip was required then I would cross your fingers, smear some liguid silicone gasket around the flange and leave well alone because it is going to be a big job to get that sheared bolt out, if indeed it can be done. That picture link ?? see FAQ's for posting oictures. Thanks for that. Just highlighted the link, then scrolled down to Robbies pictures, and left clicked on it to see if it would open, seemed to open ok, Hope you can open it, as I still need advice on the "missing pipe"? many thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2 Wheels Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 Thanks for that. Just highlighted the link, then scrolled down to Robbies pictures, and left clicked on it to see if it would open, seemed to open ok, Hope you can open it, as I still need advice on the "missing pipe"? many thanks Nope, sorry but the highlight thing doesnt work. There is no Robbies pictures. See FAQ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vez Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 Thanks for that. Just highlighted the link, then scrolled down to Robbies pictures, and left clicked on it to see if it would open, seemed to open ok, Hope you can open it, as I still need advice on the "missing pipe"? many thanks Hey Robbie, You are adding a link to a file on your computer and that is why it works for you and not for us. Follow any of the instructions here http://www.yamahaclub.com/forums//index.php?showtopic=14685http://www.yamahaclub.com/forums//index.php?showtopic=14685 Vez. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2wheelsbetterthan4 Posted June 23, 2010 Author Share Posted June 23, 2010 Hey Robbie, You are adding a link to a file on your computer and that is why it works for you and not for us. Follow any of the instructions here http://www.yamahaclub.com/forums//index.php?showtopic=14685http://www.yamahaclub.com/forums//index.php?showtopic=14685 Vez. I have opened my photobucket album account, so hopefully now I will have the photo to help with my enquiry, fingers crossed. Cheers Robbie. photobucket Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2wheelsbetterthan4 Posted June 23, 2010 Author Share Posted June 23, 2010 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vez Posted June 23, 2010 Share Posted June 23, 2010 I have opened my photobucket album account, so hopefully now I will have the photo to help with my enquiry, fingers crossed. Cheers Robbie. photobucket nearly Robbie. You need to paste only the address without the [ IMG ] tags when you click the "insert image" button while posting. The pipe in question is only a breather pipe and is nothing to worry about. If you wanted to you could fit a longer pipe to it, say 8-10" long, and run the pipe out of the way of the engine. Usually to the area where the swingarm meets the frame on the right hand side, you will find a small wire square shaped bracket that is for the various breather/overflow pipes to sit in. What you do need to worry about is the top hose in the picture, it is another warmer hose and NOT an oil delivery pipe. There should be 2 hoses coming from the top of the cylinder head (1 on the head itself and another on the side of the thermostat housing) that attach to the two in the picture. Hope this is clear and helps. Vez. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2wheelsbetterthan4 Posted June 23, 2010 Author Share Posted June 23, 2010 nearly Robbie. You need to paste only the address without the [ IMG ] tags when you click the "insert image" button while posting. The pipe in question is only a breather pipe and is nothing to worry about. If you wanted to you could fit a longer pipe to it, say 8-10" long, and run the pipe out of the way of the engine. Usually to the area where the swingarm meets the frame on the right hand side, you will find a small wire square shaped bracket that is for the various breather/overflow pipes to sit in. What you do need to worry about is the top hose in the picture, it is another warmer hose and NOT an oil delivery pipe. There should be 2 hoses coming from the top of the cylinder head (1 on the head itself and another on the side of the thermostat housing) that attach to the two in the picture. Hope this is clear and helps. Vez. Yes,thank-you very much Vez, that has cleared things nicely, and helps greatly. I was a little confused, and worried that if I continued further without being sure, I could possibly cause myself further problems. I was not sure what the top hose's identity was? and could not identify it from my manual, and as you have told me, is exactly how it is, with the two hoses coming from the top of the cylinder head,(1 on the head itself and another on the side of the thermostat housing), and I have actually attatched them as you have said I should. There is the hose running from the 2 stroke oil tank, to the oil pump, with the small bore oil feed pipe running to the reed housing/inlet stub. Do I need to bleed this pipe? If so, do you have any advice/tips? Many thanks Robbie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vez Posted June 23, 2010 Share Posted June 23, 2010 Yes,thank-you very much Vez, that has cleared things nicely, and helps greatly. I was a little confused, and worried that if I continued further without being sure, I could possibly cause myself further problems. I was not sure what the top hose's identity was? and could not identify it from my manual, and as you have told me, is exactly how it is, with the two hoses coming from the top of the cylinder head,(1 on the head itself and another on the side of the thermostat housing), and I have actually attatched them as you have said I should. There is the hose running from the 2 stroke oil tank, to the oil pump, with the small bore oil feed pipe running to the reed housing/inlet stub. Do I need to bleed this pipe? If so, do you have any advice/tips? Many thanks Robbie You can bleed the oil pump, but not the actual pipe, there is a small cross head screw at the bottom of the 2-stroke oil pump, just remove the screw and let the oil trickle out until there is no air bubbles coming out with the oil. Vez. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2wheelsbetterthan4 Posted June 23, 2010 Author Share Posted June 23, 2010 You can bleed the oil pump, but not the actual pipe, there is a small cross head screw at the bottom of the 2-stroke oil pump, just remove the screw and let the oil trickle out until there is no air bubbles coming out with the oil. Vez. Many thanks again Vez, sure I am going to be needing yours, and the "old gits" help much more, before I am finished! Robbie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted June 23, 2010 Moderator Share Posted June 23, 2010 You can bleed the oil pump, but not the actual pipe, there is a small cross head screw at the bottom of the 2-stroke oil pump, just remove the screw and let the oil trickle out until there is no air bubbles coming out with the oil. Vez. on my oil pump it has a plastic cap held on with a clip instead of a screw personally I would rather have a screw..te he Anyway there is something you should do when first starting the bike. Remove the oil pump cover and with the bike idling, turn the pulley until it stops this will allow the pump to stroke at its maximum, and will quickly fill the oil delivery pipe...around 30 seconds should do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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