johnsnownw Posted June 23, 2010 Author Posted June 23, 2010 looking forward to hear how it came out for you. Well, I'll give an update now. I spent about 4 hrs with the tank after pouring in the POR 15, might have been a little obsessive about getting the tank properly coated. To do this, I kept looking into the tank with a flashlight through the petcock and fueling holes, after the "draining" step, to make sure I hadn't missed any spots. Even though the tank drains much of the excess during the aforementioned step, there is still enough left to hit any spots where the sealant is thinner, or just happened to miss. I only needed to get to places that the sealant was thinner, as it seems to coat all the areas pretty well. So, after about 10ish hrs after the initial pouring of the sealant, it was probably dry to the touch...though I did not test it other than to notice that the color had changed and it was no longer shiny(wet looking). Everything seems to be coated well and no it's just a matter of waiting 3ish more days until I can put fuel in. So, at this moment it would appear that I would recommend using the product.
jaytorino Posted June 25, 2010 Posted June 25, 2010 Some good info from everyone here I actually have a old tank i will try some of this on. saves $100 then its worth a try
armyofda12mnkeys Posted June 25, 2010 Posted June 25, 2010 Some good info from everyone here I actually have a old tank i will try some of this on. saves $100 then its worth a try Yeh I'm going to try it too on my friend's 1985 Ninja tank when the kit arrives. Had some questions: What do you use to fill in the petcock and vent holes (I posted pic hereof the lil' vent tube at the top of friend's tank). I wouldn't want the sealant to clog up these holes. Also the gas cap area, do you just remove the cap and use duct tape to seal it after pouring in treatment(s)? You want to coat the entire tank, so i guess you are turning the tank every direction and even going upside down to get every square inch coated?
Moderator drewpy Posted June 25, 2010 Moderator Posted June 25, 2010 wrap the tank in rags and wedge it in a cement mixer!! that'll get the stuff all over for minimum effort
johnsnownw Posted June 25, 2010 Author Posted June 25, 2010 Yeh I'm going to try it too on my friend's 1985 Ninja tank when the kit arrives. Had some questions: What do you use to fill in the petcock and vent holes (I posted pic hereof the lil' vent tube at the top of friend's tank). I wouldn't want the sealant to clog up these holes. Also the gas cap area, do you just remove the cap and use duct tape to seal it after pouring in treatment(s)? You want to coat the entire tank, so i guess you are turning the tank every direction and even going upside down to get every square inch coated? The instructions that come with the kit recommend that you use duct tape over all the holes in the tank. This method worked pretty well for me, and I followed the instructions to a T. Yes, remove the gas cap and use duct tape. Yep, the instructions tell you what to do. But after pouring in the POR 15 you just roll the tank around really slowly for about 30 min. I probably did it for a bit longer than that. Then you pull the duct tape off and let it drain out the petcock holes. But after you let it drain, I would recommend looking inside the tank as best you can, then roll the tank or position the tank in a way that the sealant can reach those areas. I cannot emphasize enough the importance of following the directions, as you can screw it up completely by not doing so. For instance, the tank has to be completely dry before you pour in the POR 15. I used a hair dryer to blow it dry for about 2 hrs. I used duct tape to seal the dryer on the fuel hole so I could leave it to dry.
armyofda12mnkeys Posted June 25, 2010 Posted June 25, 2010 The instructions that come with the kit recommend that you use duct tape over all the holes in the tank. This method worked pretty well for me, and I followed the instructions to a T. Yes, remove the gas cap and use duct tape. Yep, the instructions tell you what to do. But after pouring in the POR 15 you just roll the tank around really slowly for about 30 min. I probably did it for a bit longer than that. Then you pull the duct tape off and let it drain out the petcock holes. But after you let it drain, I would recommend looking inside the tank as best you can, then roll the tank or position the tank in a way that the sealant can reach those areas. I cannot emphasize enough the importance of following the directions, as you can screw it up completely by not doing so. For instance, the tank has to be completely dry before you pour in the POR 15. I used a hair dryer to blow it dry for about 2 hrs. I used duct tape to seal the dryer on the fuel hole so I could leave it to dry. it just seems weird to me to ducttape around the outside tube coming out...sure it'll seal it so the chemical solutions dont leak out... but internally, id be worried the sealer will goop-up and dry over the holes and block them. will it overcoat a very very thin layer of the sealer so i dont need to be worried about that?, or does it goop up a decent amount, so i should be worried about breaking into those areas later or putting something into those holes like a thick wire so it plugs them up from being gooped... [i used the verb goop too much in this message ]
johnsnownw Posted June 26, 2010 Author Posted June 26, 2010 it just seems weird to me to ducttape around the outside tube coming out...sure it'll seal it so the chemical solutions dont leak out... but internally, id be worried the sealer will goop-up and dry over the holes and block them. will it overcoat a very very thin layer of the sealer so i dont need to be worried about that?, or does it goop up a decent amount, so i should be worried about breaking into those areas later or putting something into those holes like a thick wire so it plugs them up from being gooped... [i used the verb goop too much in this message ] The sealant doesn't dry very quickly, so you'll have time to wipe away all of the "goop" from the places it shouldn't be. After putting the stuff in, it was still wet after 4 hrs. You should take the duct tape off of the rest of the tank when you get to the draining step of the process anyway, that way you can make sure all of the holes are clear of the sealant.
kindest Posted June 26, 2010 Posted June 26, 2010 The sealant doesn't dry very quickly, so you'll have time to wipe away all of the "goop" from the places it shouldn't be. After putting the stuff in, it was still wet after 4 hrs. You should take the duct tape off of the rest of the tank when you get to the draining step of the process anyway, that way you can make sure all of the holes are clear of the sealant. how rusty was your tank. like a 3mm spot every 3 inches or..
johnsnownw Posted June 26, 2010 Author Posted June 26, 2010 how rusty was your tank. like a 3mm spot every 3 inches or.. Quite a bit more than that, after the first electrolysis, due to it flash rusting. But, no rusty build up, just little spots here and there, and then along the welds in the bottom of the tank. Enough rust that there was rusty gasoline in the float area of the carbs.
kmac Posted June 29, 2010 Posted June 29, 2010 I used the POR-15 motorcycle tank kit quite a few months back and can recommend it. No rust, no flaking. Very solid material once dry. I did have to drop the bowls on the carbs and clean out the pilot jets after the first tank of gas. But nothing since. I didn't rinse the tank after it was done. Maybe if I had put some gas in the tank and given it a good rinse before trying to use it would have been a good idea. But has been no problem since. And yes, another use for duct tape! Oh, and if you are going to have your tank repainted too, I would do the POR-15 first. It can be messy if your not careful.
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