No idea?

[2wheelsbetterthan4]

CAN ANYONE HELP?

I have just taken a very neglected 125r off a nephew's hands, and though I know about 1 iota about engines, felt it was a shame to let, what was actually once, a very reasonable bike, turn to scrap at the bottom of his garden.

He had basically let it run dry of all fluids, allowed the battery to sulphate, flooded it, lost the keys, punctured the front tyre, rode it with a slack, very dry chain, snapped the rev cable, and basically failed to cover it up, leaving it rust in the elements.

After recovering the battery to a very healthy state, purchasing 2 new keys and a new spark plug, re-filling all the fluids, and repairing the puncture, I was hoping I might be able to tempt it back into life, but unfortunately not.

The battery is operating the ignition fine.

I am getting a good spark from the plug, and there is fuel evidently getting to the plug when I remove it, as I can smell it. I have tried warming the plug a little.

I am getting compression, as I can feel it with my finger when the plug is removed and I kick it over.

It is like the bike is not even trying to fire up.

I have tried bump starting it down a hill.

The clutch is not disengaging when trying to push it though, in gear with the clutch lever held in, though neutral can be obtained easily enough.

Please help, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I am genuinely enjoying myself trying to get it back on the road, but am now lost for ideas,

[Cynic]

If the bike was essentially ok before it was abused then the most likely problem is a carb full of rubbish. Modern fuel is nowhere near as good as the old stuff (and without a cat more toxic) but as it evaporates it leaves a white waxy/crystal type residue that will happily render the carb useless.

The good news is a thourough cleaning, run some copper wire through every jet, opening etc and rinse with a proprietry cleaner or fresh fuel and it should run.

The clutch is typical DT (Yam) its just stuck together due to stiction, the same as if you put a drop of oil between 2 kitchen tiles, they stick. You ideally need to whip of the clutch cover and manually separate the clutch, re oil and all will be well. Although you may be lucky if you put it into gear and rock the bike against the clutch (with the lever pulled in) that ccan free it off.

[2wheelsbetterthan4]

If the bike was essentially ok before it was abused then the most likely problem is a carb full of rubbish. Modern fuel is nowhere near as good as the old stuff (and without a cat more toxic) but as it evaporates it leaves a white waxy/crystal type residue that will happily render the carb useless.

The good news is a thourough cleaning, run some copper wire through every jet, opening etc and rinse with a proprietry cleaner or fresh fuel and it should run.

The clutch is typical DT (Yam) its just stuck together due to stiction, the same as if you put a drop of oil between 2 kitchen tiles, they stick. You ideally need to whip of the clutch cover and manually separate the clutch, re oil and all will be well. Although you may be lucky if you put it into gear and rock the bike against the clutch (with the lever pulled in) that ccan free it off.

Many thanks.

I will follow your advice, and let you know how I get on.

Cheers.

[Airhead]

Was the two stroke oil run dry? If so you will need to bleed the pump before using the engine as it may be airlocked.

[2wheelsbetterthan4]

Was the two stroke oil run dry? If so you will need to bleed the pump before using the engine as it may be airlocked.

No, there was approximately a little less than a quarter of a tank of 2 stroke oil left in the tank. There was also a little fuel in the tank, but not very much, could this lack of fuel in the tank be a contributory factor?

Thanks for your assistance.

[Airhead]

Are you using the choke? It wont start without it unless the engine is warm. It is lever up for choke on mine, not sure about yours though, whether the carb is the same or not.

[2wheelsbetterthan4]

Are you using the choke? It wont start without it unless the engine is warm. It is lever up for choke on mine, not sure about yours though, whether the carb is the same or not.

I have tried to start it with choke on initially, but failed, then tried it without choke as I was afraid of flooding it, I have tried with a little rev's, and also without rev's, but this also failed. The choke is lever up, for ON, like yours, but I do not know what type/make/model the carburettor is yet, as I have ordered a manual to help me with its removal and cleaning, being quite ignorant mechanically, and it has not arrived yet so is still on the bike, and though I am enjoying myself, I am a little afraid at the moment of making a bad situation with over enthusiasm and no knowledge.

Thanks, once again for your assistance, and any help you may be able to give.

[2wheelsbetterthan4]

My manual has finally arrived, and when I have read the relevant section on removing the carburettor enough times to feel confident to begin, I am going to attempt to remove it for checking and cleaning, in the hope that I do not damage it, or any of its components!

I have also been told that it could also possibly be that the reed valves need changing, as they may have become damaged or worn, and so I have also ordered and received a new set of these.

Reading the manual for their replacement, it states that the reed block gasket must be renewed after reed valve replacement, and I am finding it difficult to locate a new gasket for my liquid cooled bike, though I can find an air cooled one for the DT125r for my year, ( Wreg: 2000).

Should I order this air cooled model gasket? or should I continue looking for a liquid cooled model one? or could I as I have also been told, have one made in my place of work from Gasket paper?

Would appreciate any advice, as is probably already obvious, I am a complete, though keen to learn, motorcycle maintenance novice.

Many thanks