Spoonerrr Posted April 29, 2010 Share Posted April 29, 2010 Im really stuck as to what 125 i can get, my friends cousin has a DT for sale thats in very good condition for £1000 and ive read reviews on them and they seem very good, im interested as to what speed they can go, and how good they are for off road use and there pulling power. I have also seen a KMX 125 for sale for about £1250ish, ive read reviews on this bike aswell and they seem to be about the same. Which is more customizable and which can travel a bit nippier. My Gilera RCR 50 is incredibly slow and means im always at the back of our group and struggle up hills an insane ammount It would be nice to get a good 125 so i would really appreciate the help Thank you! ! ! ! ! ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spoonerrr Posted April 29, 2010 Author Share Posted April 29, 2010 Ive also been offered an 09 Yamaha YZF R125 for £1600! ! ! ! ! Not sure as to how they perform and there a relitivly new bike so i was wondering is there many faults with them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted April 29, 2010 Moderator Share Posted April 29, 2010 Ive also been offered an 09 Yamaha YZF R125 for £1600! ! ! ! ! Not sure as to how they perform and there a relitivly new bike so i was wondering is there many faults with them? Yamaha no question, the Kwak is a pain in the arse to de restrict properly, the front brake is crap and eats disc's and pads like sweeties add to that the nickersil barrel, one sieze and its had it. Or more importantly when the bore is done at around 10-12 thou you may need to replace/replate the barrel as i don't believe there are oversizes. As for the YZF, if you want pretty then crack on. 4stroke 125's are ok for commuting and such but if you want it to light your fire you really need a 2 stroke at this capacity. Much more bang for your buck, spend the money you save wisely on the DT and you will have a winner. Edit: I will admit to being a fan of the DT, i've had one for 20 odd years, had the 50 too and my present ride is a TDR250, the ultimate road DT if ever there was such an animal. I don't think i'm alone on here with vote's for the DT though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spoonerrr Posted April 29, 2010 Author Share Posted April 29, 2010 Thank you Well, my budget will be around £1600ish so what can i do to make the DT be more of an off road machine, without sacrificing my on road capabilities, i really want to learn to do wheelies, my friend said i should get a smaller front sprocket as that will help acceleration. Is this true? :S I reckon i will be going for the DT then. Thank you for your help, even if you may be one sided haha! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted April 29, 2010 Moderator Share Posted April 29, 2010 Thank you Well, my budget will be around £1600ish so what can i do to make the DT be more of an off road machine, without sacrificing my on road capabilities, i really want to learn to do wheelies, my friend said i should get a smaller front sprocket as that will help acceleration. Is this true? :S I reckon i will be going for the DT then. Thank you for your help, even if you may be one sided haha! Honest answer to the question......If you want a bike that is good for off road work then TBH leave the bike alone apart from a good set of tyres and a thoughrough service. People like Oldgitonabike and Vez are more qualified than me on making them go, as they have done it to their bikes. As to tyres, horrible issue and everyone has their favourites. I have brigestone trail wings on mine they are a bit old hat but i like how they work ok in anything dirt wise. They are a bit limited on tarmac but not massively. You are riding a dirt bike at the end of the day. The best bit of advice i can give as regard wheelies is ignore your friend, forget the sprocket issue. I have seen with my own eyes a Harley sportster wheelied through the first 2 and some of third gear. Wheelies are entirely about technique. Enjoy..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2 Wheels Posted April 29, 2010 Share Posted April 29, 2010 Go for the Yam. My friend had a Kawa years ago and they dont have a patch on the DT. DT is by far a hardier bike and can take so much more abuse in the off-road stuff without faling apart, tis also a very good on road bike, it has a bit of weight over the KMX but this helps it on the road. I am a Yamaha fan and have been for years but to be honest between these two trial bikes me personaly i would take the DT. Honda too are a good bike but you want a trial bike so you'll have to make up your own mind. Take both of them for a spin and deceide but dont rush it. Good luck with your purchase. ps. do your wheelies on your 50 so as not to wreck your new bike. Any bike can wheelie its all about the technique. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spoonerrr Posted April 29, 2010 Author Share Posted April 29, 2010 Well i will probably go for the yammy then, but im going to take both of them for a spin as you said, then see which i prefer. Im not too fussed about the top speed as long as it will last me and can over 80, and wheelies haha! Thank you for the help, i really appreciate it Maybe we can go for a ride out sometime when i get it haha! Recently ive been trying to wheelie my 50, all i can do is go at a crawler speed then dump the clutch and lean back and it just pops, when i try to go into second it drops, any tips? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gas up - Let's Go! Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 Thank you so what can i do to make the DT be more of an off road machine, without sacrificing my on road capabilities, Good luck with that ! There is a scale, and at one end is a good road bike, the other is a good off-road bike, if you want dual purpose then you will have to make some scrifices. Tyres, with off-road tyres you get losts of noise, it squirms in corners (whicj is actually fun once you get used to it) and you go through them quicker than road tyres. What you fit depends on your budget, what is available for your wheel size and what type of riding you do. The normal dual sport stuff is fine for fast fire roads, gravel or intermediat rocky stuff, Dual sports are the easiest and best wearing tyres to get hold of. In mud they will slide about and you'll have very little grip, same goes for sand and grass. To fit a tyre to deal with these more extreme surfaces (than a road anyway) you'll need to go to something like a MT21, TCK, Enduro tyre but these wear much more quickly. If you are going to take the bike off-road, forget about it looking nice. the tank will become scratched where your knees hold it, the frame paint will wear down and the plastics will dull in no time - it's just dirt and sand, there's not much you can do. Having said that, riding a bike off-road is probably the best way to become a very good rider as it takes real skill (not just the ability to twist your right wrist). Im not too fussed about the top speed as long as it will last me and can over 80, and wheelies haha! You might get this at a push with the R125, but you are never going to get up there with a bike setup for off-road. My TTR600E will stuggle to get past 70, but it will pull itself up a near vertial slope ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spoonerrr Posted April 30, 2010 Author Share Posted April 30, 2010 Ohhh, so it can only be like, powerful in the dirt if it is weak on road? Well, i may just leave the bike as it its, but change the tyre's. Hmm, talking about plastics, i was going to ask, can i get newer plastics for the DT E.g Yamaha WR plastics for the DT? Because i was going to make it look really flash but if it will just get damaged i may not do that one. Im still tempted by the R125 but i do want to be able to go off road as i will be the only one of my friends without a scrambler, however, i was the only one of my friends with a scrambler when it comes to our 50's. How much should i look to spend on my DT other than the buying costs which could be less than £1000. It's a fully de-restricted one apart from the exhaust so i may get a race pipe for it. Hmm, well i will be mainly using it on road so i may not make it as much of a machine off road as i can. I may just do tyres, pipes, reeds and shocks then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
satelliteone Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 hi ya chap. i have owned 2 KMX125 and a KDX, great bikes, but bloody exspensive for the engine, esp on the barrel replating. 90 quid a time to replate. The DTR costs me 20 quid! for a rebore!. go figure..lol, Never had problems with the front brakes, i must of been just lucky..lol Now,I currenty have this.. Done 8K miles in less than a year, 1 top end rebuild! so far, and it goes off the clock at 80mph. Has the gutted original zorst, not the DEP. more power! Vee rubber tyres, renthal bars. I love this thing!. its the nuts! DTR deff. Ohh and it does 55MPG. or in other words 105 miles before it hits reserve. the tank is 2.2 gallons, 1.8 gallon with out res,..about 130 miles on a tank!. Off road, its great, feels tight, and jumps well n balenced, I have changed the bars and stifferned up the rear too tho..orginal DTRs setups are a little too soft for me..The mono shock has a little bit more tension now. on road with the right tyres. almost knee down, takes a fair bit of doing as the bike is quite tall. power out of a corners, banked feels great!. never had a tank slapper yet..lol... differnt story in the wet tho..lol..heheh..I use vee rubber VRM056 rear, lasts about 3K mainly road use. Bridgestones are really good too. more suited to road tho.. The forks are very capable.. the frame forgiving, down falls, the original rims get rusty quick, cheapo! chineeese rims i expect. The paint on the frame seems to flake a liitle here n there, nothin to sort really...... umm... thats it really for me! DTR all the way for me, cheap to fix, cheap to run, and a very good quality 2T...good luck on your choice. ps.. the DTR forum is a great place to live as well!.. chooaaawwww Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted April 30, 2010 Moderator Share Posted April 30, 2010 Good reply 'satelliteone' but I must challenge you on the term "gutted original pipe" You bike like mine is pre DTRE and so there is nothing to gut in the pipe, it is precisely reading this sort of comment that made me cut open my pipe for nothing, as you can imagine i wasnt pleased.It was me that was gutted not the pipe. However there was a restrictor tube in the neck of the pipe, but removing that can hardly be classed as 'gutted' Has the gutted original zorst, not the DEP. more power! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
satelliteone Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 hey ya old git, justa question really, what year was your pipe?.. u may or not know the later pipes had 2 half moon shaped metal peices in side. this was to slow the gas`s in the expansion chamber. Also a restriction tube in the front. Which u cut out and open up the size of the neck. The older pipes say for the 95-98 models.. did`nt have this in them, just the neck restriction. The really new pipes say the RE models have a catalytic converter in them. pls take ur time reading this. http://dtr125.net/tuningnewer.htm The DEP and many other pipes, powerband comes in around the 7.5K revs. full chat 8-10K. Ideal when ya need full power on a small track. Crap for road use. The orignal yam pipe, was sec made for the DTR, tuned. When deres`s, the power band kicks in at 6K. Ends about 10K. When ur using the bike on roads, ur still pulling in 6th gear at 6.5K unlike a DEP, which power would come off, and u would change down to 5th. So the original pipe pulls harder and stronger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted April 30, 2010 Moderator Share Posted April 30, 2010 hey ya old git, justa question really, what year was your pipe?.. u may or not know the later pipes had 2 half moon shaped metal peices in side. this was to slow the gas`s in the expansion chamber. Also a restriction tube in the front. Which u cut out and open up the size of the neck. The older pipes say for the 95-98 models.. did`nt have this in them, just the neck restriction. The really new pipes say the RE models have a catalytic converter in them. pls take ur time reading this. http://dtr125.net/tuningnewer.htm The DEP and many other pipes, powerband comes in around the 7.5K revs. full chat 8-10K. Ideal when ya need full power on a small track. Crap for road use. The orignal yam pipe, was sec made for the DTR, tuned. When deres`s, the power band kicks in at 6K. Ends about 10K. When ur using the bike on roads, ur still pulling in 6th gear at 6.5K unlike a DEP, which power would come off, and u would change down to 5th. So the original pipe pulls harder and stronger. My bike is a 2003 and like I said I was misled into cutting it up, 2003 happens to be quite a late DTR but key to all this is the number stamped in the exhaust so...If its a 3MB-14610 on your bike Dont cut it open Thats useful info Wish i'd have had the benefit of it You can add to this useful info if you tell us the number on the pipe with the half moons in it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts