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Changing chain on xvs 125


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Hi Guys,

My chain is utterly knackered and cant tighten it any further! Could someone give me some guidance (or point to a resource) on how to go about changing it and how much should I expect to pay for a new chain?

Thanks!

Edit: 2004 model

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Hi Guys,

My chain is utterly knackered and cant tighten it any further! Could someone give me some guidance (or point to a resource) on how to go about changing it and how much should I expect to pay for a new chain?

Thanks!

Edit: 2004 model

40 quid should do it for a decent one go to any decent bike shop tell them uv got an xvs 125 dragstar and they will get the book out,

to take it off have a look on the chain for a link that is different from the rest (if it has one) it should have a u shaped link on it just slide that off pop the link out and hey presto

if it hasnt then the easiest way would to get a chain splitter on it.

but iv found that if u stand the bike up on something so the rear wheel is off the ground u can take the wheel off and the shock on that side. take off the sprocket cover on the engine, and then u can just pull the chain in between the gap of ur swing arm and frame! best to wrap the bit of chain thats going to touch the frame in some old cloth so it dont take the paint off ( this is how i took mine off ) that should do the job then the new chain should have the special link to easily slip it on.

just thought as well ur other post about getting into neutral and trying to get up hills it could b caused by a knackerd chain!

hope this helps.

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Hi Guys,

My chain is utterly knackered and cant tighten it any further! Could someone give me some guidance (or point to a resource) on how to go about changing it and how much should I expect to pay for a new chain?

Thanks!

Edit: 2004 model

Bought one last month for £30, plus £9 for chain oil. I reckon a workshop would charge £50 - £60 quid if youre not comfortable with fitting it yourself. Its easier if you can get the bike off the deck safely while you work on it, but you can do it on its stand. Bear in mind also that youll almost certainly have to adjust the rear brake once youve done the chain. If youre going to give it a go, post here and let us know, Ill rustle up a brief step by step.

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Thanks for the replies guys - much appreciated.

I think Im just going to remove a few links on the current chain till the start of next month. I'll have a few days spare there where I can do a non-rushed job. I think I will give changing the rear sprocket a go at the same time so they can wear down together? Any resources that will aid me would be helpful!

About my previous post I think you may be right! I have already tightened up the chain (after it came off) and those problems seemed to go away, although I think my riding technique contrubuted to it also. It doesnt like block shifting at all.

Thanks guys.

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If your sprockets are OK, then keep it simple:

Get the bike upright, with the rear wheel off the deck.

Loosen the adjusters and move the rear wheel forward towards the frame again, slackening the chain.

Split the old chain near the back and connect the new chain to it.

Slowly pull the old chain out, allowing it to drag the new one into place.

Close up the new chain, adjust for free play as normal, lube up and go for a ride!!

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i hope u realize that if u only take a couple of links out ul need a new front and rear sprocket when u come to replace the chain. which will cost quite a bit more than a chain on its own .

cause as the chain stretches it will stretch to the point where it misses the teeth and starts grinding the sprockets down ( i know from experience! lol )

but ur in luck iv got a front and rear sprocket if u want them?

i had an 04 xvs 125 spent 600 quid on it then a week l8r the engine blew ( the con rod went )

i had a brand new sprocket set and chain put on it so its up to u but im wantin to flog them for 30 quid

( for both ) depending where ur situated i could either post them or u could come and pick them up its up to u.

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Thanks guys been a great help! I managed to remove two links from the existing chain so that it is now tight enough. Going to change the chain and sprockets next month! It goes into gear much easier now. I have noticed though that when idle it seems to be kind of miss firing[?] the grunt is inconsistent.

I have sent you a PM Paul!

Cheers!

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Thanks guys been a great help! I managed to remove two links from the existing chain so that it is now tight enough. Going to change the chain and sprockets next month! It goes into gear much easier now. I have noticed though that when idle it seems to be kind of miss firing[?] the grunt is inconsistent.

I have sent you a PM Paul!

Cheers!

how do u mean miss firing? is it choppy like intermittant and dus it do it when u rev it?

try starting the bike with half choke and let it warm up then take the choke off and see if its still doing it.

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When its ticking over at idle its intermittant and cuts out. Its fine with the choke open (or with slight revs) but still does it with the choke closed after a 20min ride! Also, are there any recommended exhausts for the xvs125 that has more 'grunt' and louder? Can hardly hear my own bike when I ride with friends.

Thanks for the help!

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Try turning the idle up.

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yeah turn the idle up and as for an exhaust if u want louder pipes u can do it one of two ways

1. go and spend 300-400 quid on some slash cut highway hawks

2. drill six 5mm holes in the end plate ( the black plate of metal around the hole when u look at the exit of the exhaust ) it makes it louder but it could fail the mot. but saying that mine didnt fail the mot for it but it did make it sound more meaty.!!!

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yeah turn the idle up and as for an exhaust if u want louder pipes u can do it one of two ways

1. go and spend 300-400 quid on some slash cut highway hawks

2. drill six 5mm holes in the end plate ( the black plate of metal around the hole when u look at the exit of the exhaust ) it makes it louder but it could fail the mot. but saying that mine didnt fail the mot for it but it did make it sound more meaty.!!!

Adjust the idle screw. Don't burden yourself with sprocket change unless they're shagged, they should last for years. Dont forget to check the rear brake after you change the chain for correct operation.

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Thanks again guys great advice. Im going to have a look on ebay and see what pipes are on offer, else I'll go with the 'custom' pipe job ;]

Im going to adjust the idle today and see how that goes, rear brake needs further adjustment also! As a side note - had to pay £50 for a damn chain tool! No cheaper alternative were in stock. Is dd40 oil sufficient for chain lubrication? Im also thinking of changing the front indicators - any suggestions?

Cheers!

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Thanks again guys great advice. Im going to have a look on ebay and see what pipes are on offer, else I'll go with the 'custom' pipe job ;]

Im going to adjust the idle today and see how that goes, rear brake needs further adjustment also! As a side note - had to pay £50 for a damn chain tool! No cheaper alternative were in stock. Is dd40 oil sufficient for chain lubrication? Im also thinking of changing the front indicators - any suggestions?

Cheers!

only use wd40 as a last resort. i tend to use engine oil if i run out of chain lube and cant get some for over a month!

ur best off spending a tenna on some chain lube from a bike shop! itl b the best thing for ur new chain! and probably the best investment ul make for ur bike! as for front indicators ul struggle as there linked to the forks with a rubber clamp which the indicators are bolted to so ul have to see if u can find some that will fit. im trying to find some for my custom build but its looking like il have to make some custom brackets.

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only use wd40 as a last resort. i tend to use engine oil if i run out of chain lube and cant get some for over a month!

ur best off spending a tenna on some chain lube from a bike shop! itl b the best thing for ur new chain! and probably the best investment ul make for ur bike! as for front indicators ul struggle as there linked to the forks with a rubber clamp which the indicators are bolted to so ul have to see if u can find some that will fit. im trying to find some for my custom build but its looking like il have to make some custom brackets.

Pauls right, proper chain lube is superior as it adheres to the chain surfaces and wont throw off. Dont leave it too long before you change that chain if its shagged, it may bite you! Instructions for rear brake adjustement, just follow the manual.

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Okay cheers mate! I'll grab myself some chain lube then! Would really like to change the indicators so will have to dig into it more. I'll report back how the drilling session goes!

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I drilled the holes yesterday - 6 7mm holes around the exit! Sound much more gritty and more like a bike! As a sidenote, Paulwhite is a very trust worthy guy to do business with if anyone else finds themselves in that position!

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