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Starter problems dt 125 x


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Please help. Ive got a 2004 dt 125 x and have had problems with the starter. What happens is when i press the start switch either it starts or you just hear the starter turning. sometimes its grinding as if the cogs aren't lined up properley. Have fitted new starter motor and same thing happens.

Any suggestion will be greatfully recieved.

Many thanks Dave.

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Guest MaD.VeZ

Hello, and welcome to the forum. Not the best introduction, but im in a good mood, so ill have a go at answering your question.

Have you examined the flywheel edge where the teeth that the starter engages on the flywheel are to make sure a few teeth haven't been sheared? 

Is your battery ok and giving enough voltage/amperage out to turn the starter? ( should be around 12.4 Volt, if its below then you battery may need charging)

Vez.

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Hello, and welcome to the forum. Not the best introduction, but im in a good mood, so ill have a go at answering your question.

Have you examined the flywheel edge where the teeth that the starter engages on the flywheel are to make sure a few teeth haven't been sheared? 

Is your battery ok and giving enough voltage/amperage out to turn the starter? ( should be around 12.4 Volt, if its below then you battery may need charging)

Vez.

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Hello, and welcome to the forum. Not the best introduction, but im in a good mood, so ill have a go at answering your question.

Have you examined the flywheel edge where the teeth that the starter engages on the flywheel are to make sure a few teeth haven't been sheared? 

Is your battery ok and giving enough voltage/amperage out to turn the starter? ( should be around 12.4 Volt, if its below then you battery may need charging)

Vez.

Hi mate thanks for replying,The teeth and battery are ok,Have noticed thar the flywheel has a bit of play in it,Thinking this could cause it not to line up correctly? If so how do you tighten up the flywheel?.

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Guest MaD.VeZ

Hi mate thanks for replying,The teeth and battery are ok,Have noticed thar the flywheel has a bit of play in it,Thinking this could cause it not to line up correctly? If so how do you tighten up the flywheel?.

Damn the flywheel should be solid, there should be a nut in the center, 17mm iirc tighten that up to torque spec and see how it goes, there is every chance that is causing the problem with the starting.

Vez

Edit: nut> bolt confusion

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Damn the flywheel should be solid, there should be a nut in the center, 17mm iirc  tighten that up to torque spec and see how it goes, there is every chance that is causing the problem with the starting.

Vez

Edit: nut> bolt confusion

Yeah mate the nut infront of the stator housing is solid,Took it off then couldn't get the housing that is infront of the flywheel off to see if there should be any washers that secure the flywheel. What holds the flywheel inplace?

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Guest MaD.VeZ

Im a little confused here,

flywheelp.jpg

OK the stator plate (on the right in the pic above) should be fixed to the external cover with two 8mm bolts, before you take the cover off leave these in place, and then extract the cover with the stator plate still attached, there will be some resistance as the magnets from the flywheel try to hold the stator in place.

When the cover and stator is removed, this should then leave the flywheel(on the left in the pic above) in place with a 17mm nut in the center holding the fly wheel to the end of the crankshaft, this is the nut that needs to be checked for tightness. Without removing mine i can't answer if it has a washer, but i would think so as the older DTR's do iirc.

I have put it simple to try and get on the same page as you, as i don't quite understand how you are attempting to check the flywheel. I have a feeling you are removing the stator retaining bolts before removal of the cover and this won't help your cause.

Vez.

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Im a little confused here,

flywheelp.jpg

OK the stator plate (on the right in the pic above) should be fixed to the external cover with two 8mm bolts, before you take the cover off leave these in place, and then extract the cover with the stator plate still attached, there will be some resistance as the magnets from the flywheel try to hold the stator in place.

When the cover and stator is removed, this should then leave the flywheel(on the left in the pic above) in place with a 17mm nut in the center holding the fly wheel to the end of the crankshaft, this is the nut that needs to be checked for tightness. Without removing mine i can't answer if it has a washer, but i would think so as the older DTR's do iirc.

I have put it simple to try and get on the same page as you, as i don't quite understand how you are attempting to check the flywheel. I have a feeling you are removing the stator retaining bolts before removal of the cover and this won't help your cause.

Vez.

Its not the parts that are in the picture its the wheel behind with the teeth on thats got the play in it. Im having trouble removing the part on the left of the picture to see what the problem is behind it to see why there is play, Hope you understand and yhanks again for replying.

Dave.

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Guest MaD.VeZ

I see what you are doing now Dave. I assumed the teeth were part of the flywheel, i haven't taken mine apart that far yet. Most of my experience is with the DTR's which are slightly different.

The fly wheel( the part on the left) will be a PITA to remove because of the tapered crank shaft it attaches to, on previous models you needed a flywheel puller which screwed into a thread on the flywheel, but looking at this model it will probably require a two/three legged puller for the holes on the back of the flywheel. If the holes have a thread then this may work http://www.halfords....tegoryId_165469 but i don't know for sure it will until i examine mine later this week.

There are other ways to remove the flywheel, involving a rubber mallet and a little aggression, but i don't recommend it, with it having the potential to do more damage. If the flywheel is slightly loose after removing the nut in the center, then it may be worth a few taps with a mallet while pulling the flywheel away from the bike, its entirely at your own risk though. I will add if you do get the flywheel off try not to lose the woodruff key (its a small piece of half moon shaped metal that keeps the flywheel aligned correctly.

I will examine mine on Thursday(when i take it off the road for a bit of work) and then get back to you, if you still have trouble that is.

Vez.

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 I see what you are doing now Dave.  I assumed the teeth were part of the flywheel, i haven't taken mine apart that far yet. Most of my experience is with the DTR's which are slightly different.

The fly wheel( the part on the left) will be a PITA to remove because of the tapered crank shaft it attaches to, on previous models you needed a flywheel puller which screwed into a thread on the flywheel, but looking at this model it will probably require a two/three legged puller for the holes on the back of the flywheel. If the holes have a thread then this may work http://www.halfords....tegoryId_165469 but i don't know for sure it will until i examine mine later this week.

There are other ways to remove the flywheel, involving a rubber mallet and a little aggression, but i don't recommend it, with it having the potential to do more damage. If the flywheel is slightly loose after removing the nut in the center, then it may be worth a few taps with a mallet while pulling the flywheel away from the bike, its entirely at your own risk though. I will add if you do get the flywheel off try not to lose the woodruff key (its a small piece of half moon shaped metal that keeps the flywheel aligned correctly.

I will examine mine on Thursday(when i take it off the road for a bit of work) and then get back to you, if you still have trouble that is.

Vez.

Ive reserved the pulley and am collecting later today, Will try and have a go later today or tomorrow. Think the confusion was caused by me thinking the toothed wheel was the flywheel.Let you know how i get on, Once again thanks.

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