ayron Posted April 3, 2010 Posted April 3, 2010 hi,I recently bought a tzr125r 96 n reg,it is a import and the full power model as far as I know,can anybody point me in the right direction for a manual for this bike,the engine and chassis number both begin with 4HW but everything I have read online say you can identify a 4dl by the letters 4fuoo embossed on the cylinder which this bike has also all the panels have 3xv on them,the colour is black,purple blue,any help would be appreciated,thanks ayron ["[email protected]"]
Guest MaD.VeZ Posted April 4, 2010 Posted April 4, 2010 You could try here http://www.djunreal.co.uk/bikedocs/ but i think its only an owners manual. This thread may also help with a little info http://www.yamahaclu.../19360-tzr125r/ Welcome to the forum btw Vez.
ayron Posted April 5, 2010 Author Posted April 5, 2010 You could try here http://www.djunreal.co.uk/bikedocs/ but i think its only an owners manual. This thread may also help with a little info http://www.yamahaclu.../19360-tzr125r/ Welcome to the forum btw Vez. thanks man,one more question the bike goes really well but once all warmed up and at stand still if you rev it,sometimes at about 6-7000 revs it will smoke its ass off and burble a bit then it will clear my guess is that the oil pump need adjusting a bit,but worried about it seizing up as just fitted a new piston rings,any help much appreciated thanks ayron
Guest MaD.VeZ Posted April 5, 2010 Posted April 5, 2010 thanks man,one more question the bike goes really well but once all warmed up and at stand still if you rev it,sometimes at about 6-7000 revs it will smoke its ass off and burble a bit then it will clear my guess is that the oil pump need adjusting a bit,but worried about it seizing up as just fitted a new piston rings,any help much appreciated thanks ayron The pump shouldn't cause the burble, maybe check your throttle cable junction box (where the cable splits in two) and make sure its not sticking on the carb cable (if this happens the carb control sticks and the 2-stroke pump is opened further causing excess smoke and a lack of fuel/air) and also check for carbon build up in the exhaust and exhaust port. With it being an intermittent issue my money would be on sticky throttle. Vez. Edit: Presuming the throttle cable is like the DTR and not the sealed type some have.
ayron Posted April 5, 2010 Author Posted April 5, 2010 thanks man,one more question the bike goes really well but once all warmed up and at stand still if you rev it,sometimes at about 6-7000 revs it will smoke its ass off and burble a bit then it will clear my guess is that the oil pump need adjusting a bit,but worried about it seizing up as just fitted a new piston rings,any help much appreciated thanks ayron thanks vez,I packed the junction box with grease quite gloopy stuff to,so I will check that in the morning as for carbon build up definately not as just fitted new piston and rings and decoaked pv and head thanks for the quick reply,I was looking at another clip by you on the pv servo the speed which it moved forwards and backwards was a lot faster than mine the battery was new when I bought the bike 1 week ago but it looks small in the battery holder do you rekon it is this or something else thanks ayron
Guest MaD.VeZ Posted April 5, 2010 Posted April 5, 2010 thanks vez,I packed the junction box with grease quite gloopy stuff to,so I will check that in the morning as for carbon build up definately not as just fitted new piston and rings and decoaked pv and head thanks for the quick reply,I was looking at another clip by you on the pv servo the speed which it moved forwards and backwards was a lot faster than mine the battery was new when I bought the bike 1 week ago but it looks small in the battery holder do you rekon it is this or something else thanks ayron If it is moving slower than my pv (the first vid) then the battery may be at fault. I don't think i have seen two pv's move at the same speed so it may be ok. What type of battery is it? Any chance of a pic of the size/spec? I figured mine was moving too slow as it was, but the head and port need a clean, so i put it down to that.
ayron Posted April 6, 2010 Author Posted April 6, 2010 If it is moving slower than my pv (the first vid) then the battery may be at fault. I don't think i have seen two pv's move at the same speed so it may be ok. What type of battery is it? Any chance of a pic of the size/spec? I figured mine was moving too slow as it was, but the head and port need a clean, so i put it down to that. hi mate ,as soon as the weather clears up I will un sheet the bike whip the faring off and take a pic,how do you post them on this page thanks ayron
Guest MaD.VeZ Posted April 6, 2010 Posted April 6, 2010 hi mate ,as soon as the weather clears up I will un sheet the bike whip the faring off and take a pic,how do you post them on this page thanks ayron Heres the faq for pics, http://www.yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/14685-posting-pictures/ If that method doesn't work for you, let me know i have a different method you can try. Vez
ayron Posted April 7, 2010 Author Posted April 7, 2010 Heres the faq for pics, http://www.yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/14685-posting-pictures/ If that method doesn't work for you, let me know i have a different method you can try. Vez hi mate here goes the pic hope it works,on looking on ebay for the same one the specs are as follows Cold Cranking Amps CCA (-18 C): 40 Max Charging Amps: 1.5 Normal Charging: 0.5 Voltage: 12V Capacity: 5Ah
Guest MaD.VeZ Posted April 7, 2010 Posted April 7, 2010 That battery is fine mate, up to spec and the extra space is probably for the original type battery with the overflow/expansion pipe on the right side. The bikes looks in great condition for 14 years old. Looks like there is a DTR engine (3MB00 on the barrel) in there also, but like i said im not over familiar with TZR's so i may be wrong on that. Just out of interest does it have a PV servo? Had a thought about the burbling , 6-7000rpm is where the powerband should be, so maybe it is this that causes the burbling as my DT does something similar if i don't warm it up enough before i ride it. Vez
ayron Posted April 8, 2010 Author Posted April 8, 2010 That battery is fine mate, up to spec and the extra space is probably for the original type battery with the overflow/expansion pipe on the right side. The bikes looks in great condition for 14 years old. Looks like there is a DTR engine (3MB00 on the barrel) in there also, but like i said im not over familiar with TZR's so i may be wrong on that. Just out of interest does it have a PV servo? Had a thought about the burbling , 6-7000rpm is where the powerband should be, so maybe it is this that causes the burbling as my DT does something similar if i don't warm it up enough before i ride it. Vez these are the pics of the parts when I fitted the new piston the chap I bought it off said it had been stored for 10 years when he bought it
Guest MaD.VeZ Posted April 8, 2010 Posted April 8, 2010 these are the pics of the parts when I fitted the new piston the chap I bought it off said it had been stored for 10 years when he bought it Looks identical to the DTR that mate, got me wondering what the differences are now, if any! The TZR heads i have seen have all been square types, like the older DTR lc's Is that a concave piston crown i see or just an optical illusion?? Do you have a PV servo fitted? Hows the bike running then? still got problems? Dammit, why do i get all exited when i see bike parts all shiny and new looking ready to be fitted.. Vez
ayron Posted April 8, 2010 Author Posted April 8, 2010 Looks identical to the DTR that mate, got me wondering what the differences are now, if any! The TZR heads i have seen have all been square types, like the older DTR lc's Is that a concave piston crown i see or just an optical illusion?? Do you have a PV servo fitted? Hows the bike running then? still got problems? it is a optical illusion its flat top piston , tried starting it this morning,it was an absolute bastard to start it took about 30 seconds of turning it over before it fired then it died a few times before eventually ticking over ok,otherwise it ran ok once going,but sometimes wont pick up well other times ok I had the plug out the other day and the spark looked crap,a orange colour not blue as it should be,also the pv servo rotates really slowly any ideas what to check electrical wise,as I think this is the problem,cheers ayron Dammit, why do i get all exited when i see bike parts all shiny and new looking ready to be fitted.. Vez
ayron Posted April 10, 2010 Author Posted April 10, 2010 Dammit, why do i get all exited when i see bike parts all shiny and new looking ready to be fitted.. LOL! hi,I am going to strip the carb can you tell me the settings for the 4fl00 t361 carb with a 200 main jet ,what's the mixture setting also which clip position for the needle,I am doin this as it was a twat to start from cold and runs lumpy untill the power band kicks in,I know everyone says the power is high up but I had an old one these bikes with drum brake on the back the pv was pegged fully open and it ran a lot smoother than this bike also do you know reed stopper clearence thanks in advance ayron
Vez Posted April 10, 2010 Posted April 10, 2010 Dammit, why do i get all exited when i see bike parts all shiny and new looking ready to be fitted.. LOL! hi,I am going to strip the carb can you tell me the settings for the 4fl00 t361 carb with a 200 main jet ,what's the mixture setting also which clip position for the needle,I am doin this as it was a twat to start from cold and runs lumpy untill the power band kicks in,I know everyone says the power is high up but I had an old one these bikes with drum brake on the back the pv was pegged fully open and it ran a lot smoother than this bike also do you know reed stopper clearence thanks in advance ayron Im not familiar with that carb tbh. Is it a Mikuni? Round or flat sided?. The manual i have which only goes upto 93 TZR's says a 180 jet, but Yamaha may have changed it on yours. The same manual gives a stopper plate hight of 8.3mm with 0.4mm +/- mixture screw setting as 1 1/4 turns and the 4th groove from the top for the needle clip. But these may be wrong with your bike being an import and slightly newer. Getting the right manual or someone who knows is probably your best bet. If you have a servo on???? Then the bike may not start the same until warmed up, mine doesn't but the servo is under debate atm. My DTR without a servo starts alot better cold though. Vez.
ayron Posted April 10, 2010 Author Posted April 10, 2010 Im not familiar with that carb tbh. Is it a Mikuni? Round or flat sided?. The manual i have which only goes upto 93 TZR's says a 180 jet, but Yamaha may have changed it on yours. The same manual gives a stopper plate hight of 8.3mm with 0.4mm +/- mixture screw setting as 1 1/4 turns and the 4th groove from the top for the needle clip. But these may be wrong with your bike being an import and slightly newer. Getting the right manual or someone who knows is probably your best bet. If you have a servo on???? Then the bike may not start the same until warmed up, mine doesn't but the servo is under debate atm. My DTR without a servo starts alot better cold though. Vez. hi mate ater stripping and rebuilding the carb it started first time on the button, its a 28mm mikuni the slide is box shaped,the side is flat,the mixture screw turned in 1 and a 1/2 turns so set it to that on rebuilding as for the clip groove I couldnt get to it what a pain in the arse the slide has like a yellow plastic clip inside which I coulnt move so didnt bother as for the servo it seems ok and moves at the right time ,when riding it still burbles at about 5.5 6000 revs ,and when backing the throttle off it potters at lower revs definatly think it is a carb prob as for the manual the new TDR125 have the same engines I think,anyways it runs.I should be thankfull for that and some nice weather cheers,ayron
ayron Posted April 12, 2010 Author Posted April 12, 2010 Im not familiar with that carb tbh. Is it a Mikuni? Round or flat sided?. The manual i have which only goes upto 93 TZR's says a 180 jet, but Yamaha may have changed it on yours. The same manual gives a stopper plate hight of 8.3mm with 0.4mm +/- mixture screw setting as 1 1/4 turns and the 4th groove from the top for the needle clip. But these may be wrong with your bike being an import and slightly newer. Getting the right manual or someone who knows is probably your best bet. If you have a servo on???? Then the bike may not start the same until warmed up, mine doesn't but the servo is under debate atm. My DTR without a servo starts alot better cold though. Vez. hi mate one last question for ya the bike starts ok on choke then off the choke when the engine is still cold the tick over is set at about 2000 revs I know this is to high but just for testing,as soon as you take the bike out and it warms up the tick over drops to around 1000 revs no amount of adjusting the tick over screw in will change it any ideas as I am totally stumped thanks ayron
Vez Posted April 12, 2010 Posted April 12, 2010 hi mate one last question for ya the bike starts ok on choke then off the choke when the engine is still cold the tick over is set at about 2000 revs I know this is to high but just for testing,as soon as you take the bike out and it warms up the tick over drops to around 1000 revs no amount of adjusting the tick over screw in will change it any ideas as I am totally stumped thanks ayron For the tick over, are you adjusting the mixture screw or the throttle stop? I ask because 1 and a 1/2 turns in on the mixture screw sounds a little off tbh, why not try and set it at 1 and a 1/4 turns out and see if that helps, its easy enough to put it back to 1 1/2 again if it doesn't help. Beyond that I'm stumped atm.
ayron Posted April 15, 2010 Author Posted April 15, 2010 For the tick over, are you adjusting the mixture screw or the throttle stop? I ask because 1 and a 1/2 turns in on the mixture screw sounds a little off tbh, why not try and set it at 1 and a 1/4 turns out and see if that helps, its easy enough to put it back to 1 1/2 again if it doesn't help. Beyond that I'm stumped atm.
Tick Posted May 10, 2010 Posted May 10, 2010 I would ask something here if you don't mind. I have damaged cylinder on my yamaha DT125x 2006 and now i bought an used cylinder of yamaha TDR. On my cilinder on right side is written 4MB00 but on bought cylinder is written 4FU00. What are the differences? What does this numbers mean? Can i put cylinder of TDR125 on my DT? Thank you.
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