banjo bill Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 Hi . This probably dead simple to someone, but how do i get the pads out of the front brake caliper ? Do the pistons have to be pushed right back, and if so how. I cannot budge them and have tried using the bleed valve ? (as per the workshop manual !) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ttaskmaster Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 If you have a workshop manual, it shouldn't be a problem. Read it carefully and all the way through the procedure before doing any of it... and I do mean everything. Both Haynes and the official workshop service manual have a habit of only mentioning useful details in the small print!! You will need to take the top off the brake reservoir first, as it's a sealed, pressurised system. You won't get anywhere without doing that first. Just remember to put a big rag around the reservoir first, in case any brake fluid spills. Next, you will want to undo those two bolts marked in the manual. You can then just hinge open the caliper assembly without having to remove the whole thing. The pads should pop out OK, maybe with a little persuasion. If you do need to fiddle around a bit, opening the reservoir will allow you to do so. Once those are out, push the pistons back and whack in the new pads. Reassemble in reverse order. Once the new pads are fitted, test the brake pressure and only then use the bleed nipple/valve to drive air out as you build the brakes back up again. Alles klar? Any other issues or questions, feel free to ask. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midnight61 Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 you'll be "hard pressed" (no pun intended) to push the piston(s) back by hand, a big pair of grips is my usual choice or a G clamp or similar, slowly and gently does it, before i push the piston back i (personally) clean the piston with a light application of WD40 and an old toothbrush, then wipe it clean and i (personally) smear a little copperslip round the piston to keep the weather off/out,..THEN i push it back into the caliper, AFTER undoing the master cylinder cap, (you dont need to undo the bleed nipple on the caliper to push the piston back), push it back as far as it'll go (you'll feel it 'stop') dont burr over the piston, inspect the dust seal too. It goes without saying NOT to get WD40 or copperslip either on the brake disc or on the new pads Be aware that if your master cylinder is full before you start, it may overflow when the piston's go back...thats the last thing you want on your fuel tank, and also, if the bikes moving around as your working on the calipers, brake fluid could also 'slop' out of the master cylinder. one last thing.... make sure you pump the front brake lever several times AFTER refitting the caliper/pads to get a good brake lever and be gentle with your braking first few times to allow the new pads to 'bed in' hope this also helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banjo bill Posted April 10, 2010 Author Share Posted April 10, 2010 you'll be "hard pressed" (no pun intended) to push the piston(s) back by hand, a big pair of grips is my usual choice or a G clamp or similar, slowly and gently does it, before i push the piston back i (personally) clean the piston with a light application of WD40 and an old toothbrush, then wipe it clean and i (personally) smear a little copperslip round the piston to keep the weather off/out,..THEN i push it back into the caliper, AFTER undoing the master cylinder cap, (you dont need to undo the bleed nipple on the caliper to push the piston back), push it back as far as it'll go (you'll feel it 'stop') dont burr over the piston, inspect the dust seal too. It goes without saying NOT to get WD40 or copperslip either on the brake disc or on the new pads Be aware that if your master cylinder is full before you start, it may overflow when the piston's go back...thats the last thing you want on your fuel tank, and also, if the bikes moving around as your working on the calipers, brake fluid could also 'slop' out of the master cylinder. one last thing.... make sure you pump the front brake lever several times AFTER refitting the caliper/pads to get a good brake lever and be gentle with your braking first few times to allow the new pads to 'bed in' hope this also helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banjo bill Posted April 10, 2010 Author Share Posted April 10, 2010 Many thanks. A great help, and the job is done and all good. Cheers Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banjo bill Posted April 10, 2010 Author Share Posted April 10, 2010 If you have a workshop manual, it shouldn't be a problem. Read it carefully and all the way through the procedure before doing any of it... and I do mean everything. Both Haynes and the official workshop service manual have a habit of only mentioning useful details in the small print!! You will need to take the top off the brake reservoir first, as it's a sealed, pressurised system. You won't get anywhere without doing that first. Just remember to put a big rag around the reservoir first, in case any brake fluid spills. Next, you will want to undo those two bolts marked in the manual. You can then just hinge open the caliper assembly without having to remove the whole thing. The pads should pop out OK, maybe with a little persuasion. If you do need to fiddle around a bit, opening the reservoir will allow you to do so. Once those are out, push the pistons back and whack in the new pads. Reassemble in reverse order. Once the new pads are fitted, test the brake pressure and only then use the bleed nipple/valve to drive air out as you build the brakes back up again. Alles klar? Any other issues or questions, feel free to ask. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banjo bill Posted April 10, 2010 Author Share Posted April 10, 2010 Many thanks. A great help, and the job is done and all good. Cheers Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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