cruiser650 Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 Hi all, Lovely day today, thought I'd go for a nice long ride, first of the year ! Have been starting her every 3 weeks or so no problem over the winter, letting her warm up and charge the battery. Well, started ok, bit sluggish at turning the motor over but started. First thought was fresh fuel so off to Asda. Queue of 10 cars so went round the block (any excuse) about 3 miles in total. Suddenly started to missfire, no power for a couple of secs then cleared ok. Did this twice, put it down to water in the fuel tank as she'e been standing for 3 months in the garage. Filled up at Asda then hit the starter........one slow turn the click, click....GUTTED. RAC came in 45 mins and jump started her. Took readings and altenator only putting out 12.8 volts said should be 13.8 and was probably new battery required. Had lights on so must have drained it. Question is does this sound like a battery or charging circuit?? Suppose I'll have to fit a new one and see what happens !! Are the ebay MF Super sealed ones ok at £45 or the Yamaha dealers one Yashica (or something simmilar) said that was the original dragstar ones fitted when new and was heavy duty !! but cost £85 OUCH. Thanks for any advice. Was so gutted I only managed 3 miles today !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ttaskmaster Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 A quick blast does not charge the battery. Well, not by any noticable amount, anyway. You really need to keep these things topped up with an optimiser and/or take her out for a good looooooooong ride. Even then, that will charge the battery some, but rarely keep it fully topped up. Additionally, it only charges at a certain rev range (don't ask - Drags don't even have rev counters). Basically, ride it for a good distance cruise, keeping it squarely planted within the power band. Do it often and all will be good. Optimiser as a backup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser650 Posted March 2, 2010 Author Share Posted March 2, 2010 A quick blast does not charge the battery. Well, not by any noticable amount, anyway. You really need to keep these things topped up with an optimiser and/or take her out for a good looooooooong ride. Even then, that will charge the battery some, but rarely keep it fully topped up. Additionally, it only charges at a certain rev range (don't ask - Drags don't even have rev counters). Basically, ride it for a good distance cruise, keeping it squarely planted within the power band. Do it often and all will be good. Optimiser as a backup. Ah yes the RAC man did mention if I'd tricle charged the battery. Is there a test I can do on the battery/charging systom to see if the batteries ok ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2 Wheels Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 On my bikes I have wires coming from the + and - of the battery to a little conector block, it is neetly tucked away and cable tied in place so that whenever a bike is not being used i can just plug it in for 5 hours at a time once a week. This keeps the battery in propper order and helpes it to last longer. Take a reading of the battery with the bike started, Then take a reading with the bike reved up, this reading should be more than the first. This will tell you if your bike charging system is working ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser650 Posted March 2, 2010 Author Share Posted March 2, 2010 On my bikes I have wires coming from the + and - of the battery to a little conector block, it is neetly tucked away and cable tied in place so that whenever a bike is not being used i can just plug it in for 5 hours at a time once a week. This keeps the battery in propper order and helpes it to last longer. Take a reading of the battery with the bike started, Then take a reading with the bike reved up, this reading should be more than the first. This will tell you if your bike charging system is working ok. Now that's a good idea having a fixed cable to the battery Will take measurements tomorrow. Thanks all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midnight61 Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 Now that's a good idea having a fixed cable to the battery Will take measurements tomorrow. Thanks all. Just buy an optimate, £43 off e-bay, and it comes with the "fly lead" that you leave fixed to the battery, hence you can couple it in seconds....do that every time your leaving the bike to stand for more than a day, and thats it. (providing the battery is good to start with, and the alternator is actually charging it when the bikes running). test the charging system at 3000rpm with the headlight on, if it its less than 13 volts your looking at a regulator/rectifier/alternator fault, at which point you disconnect the regulator/rectifier and check for unregulated ac volts coming outta the alternator, if thats ok, its the regulator/rectifier. first off, charge the battery and take it to a battery supplier and get it tested (usually free) for peace of mind. In your earlier post you mentioned the bike was misfiring with no power as you rode...THAT could be because the battery was discharging whilst you were riding along, resulting in the ignition breaking down which indicates a regularor/rectifier/alternator fault or the associated wiring (multi plugs etc) ?. Its so difficult to diagnose on an internet forum without seeing the bike, ive been a mechanic for over 30 years but without seeing the bike its awkward. hope this gives you something to go on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser650 Posted March 3, 2010 Author Share Posted March 3, 2010 Just buy an optimate, £43 off e-bay, and it comes with the "fly lead" that you leave fixed to the battery, hence you can couple it in seconds....do that every time your leaving the bike to stand for more than a day, and thats it. (providing the battery is good to start with, and the alternator is actually charging it when the bikes running). test the charging system at 3000rpm with the headlight on, if it its less than 13 volts your looking at a regulator/rectifier/alternator fault, at which point you disconnect the regulator/rectifier and check for unregulated ac volts coming outta the alternator, if thats ok, its the regulator/rectifier. first off, charge the battery and take it to a battery supplier and get it tested (usually free) for peace of mind. In your earlier post you mentioned the bike was misfiring with no power as you rode...THAT could be because the battery was discharging whilst you were riding along, resulting in the ignition breaking down which indicates a regularor/rectifier/alternator fault or the associated wiring (multi plugs etc) ?. Its so difficult to diagnose on an internet forum without seeing the bike, ive been a mechanic for over 30 years but without seeing the bike its awkward. hope this gives you something to go on Thanks all for the info on an optimate, I'll definatly buy one as I don't use the bike every day, maybe 3 times a week and depending on shift work maybe no rides for a week or so, so this battery optimate charger sounds just the thing---thanks. Right, trickle charged the battery overnight 14 hours and it measured 15.2 volts. Started on the button and went for a 40 mile ride with the lights on---EXCELLENT. No problems atall this time---perfect. Measured volts whilst on drive with lights on , a dismal 10.9 volts !! Lights off and it went up to 11.9 volts. Reved up and this made NO differance atall !! Oh dear--somethings wrong Switched off and battery reads 11.7 volts. Got to go to work soon so packing up today. Suppose next to do is disconect rectifier and measure alternator output, probably at the weekend as I'm now on night work. Thanks for all of your help so far. Gra. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midnight61 Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 Thanks all for the info on an optimate, I'll definatly buy one as I don't use the bike every day, maybe 3 times a week and depending on shift work maybe no rides for a week or so, so this battery optimate charger sounds just the thing---thanks. Right, trickle charged the battery overnight 14 hours and it measured 15.2 volts. Started on the button and went for a 40 mile ride with the lights on---EXCELLENT. No problems atall this time---perfect. Measured volts whilst on drive with lights on , a dismal 10.9 volts !! Lights off and it went up to 11.9 volts. Reved up and this made NO differance atall !! Oh dear--somethings wrong Switched off and battery reads 11.7 volts. Got to go to work soon so packing up today. Suppose next to do is disconect rectifier and measure alternator output, probably at the weekend as I'm now on night work. Thanks for all of your help so far. Gra. good luck mate, it definetly aint charging properly....could be a connection Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser650 Posted March 6, 2010 Author Share Posted March 6, 2010 good luck mate, it definetly aint charging properly....could be a connection Right, here we go again !! Battery at 11.97v having been left for 2 days. Removed rectifier and don't know but wires just seemed to fall off the spades on the rectifier. No multi plug which i thought it should have ?? Just wrapped in black electrical tape--doe'nt look right. All spade connectors have gone green/corroding. Cleaned them with emery paper and reassembled. Noted that the red and black connectors are larger than the spades on the rectifier so only gripping on one side--again doesn't look right. Hoping my problems might just be one of these connections !!! Started ok, battery didn't struggle really. Warmed up and reading across battery on tickover is 13.55v Revved and reading went down to 13.45v !!! Twin Headlights on 13.4v Revved+twin headlight 13.3v Voltage across red and black connections on rectifier 14.10v, no headlighs, Revved 14.01v, don't understand why the volts go down when revved, seems the more I revved the lower the power voltage output !! confused. Ignition off--battery voltage 12.5v. Comments please ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midnight61 Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 well, there's definetly a vast improvement in the charging since you found those dry joints on the regulator/ rectifier, and from what you describe, those connections have some 'history' if i'm not mistaken. As long as they are clean and back on tight i would keep my eye on them and see how you go now mate...dont forget, that with a voltmeter you are only checking regulated voltage output at the battery, it doesnt tell you what current (amps) is going into the battery. Its not uncommon to see a dip in the regulated voltage if lots of current (amps) is going in the battery BUT if the very least you've seen is 13.3 v revving at a fixed rpm for say 30 seconds with loads applied (lights etc)with NO further drop in voltage i'd run with it and see how it goes. p.s. dont forget the optimate...LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser650 Posted March 8, 2010 Author Share Posted March 8, 2010 well, there's definetly a vast improvement in the charging since you found those dry joints on the regulator/ rectifier, and from what you describe, those connections have some 'history' if i'm not mistaken. As long as they are clean and back on tight i would keep my eye on them and see how you go now mate...dont forget, that with a voltmeter you are only checking regulated voltage output at the battery, it doesnt tell you what current (amps) is going into the battery. Its not uncommon to see a dip in the regulated voltage if lots of current (amps) is going in the battery BUT if the very least you've seen is 13.3 v revving at a fixed rpm for say 30 seconds with loads applied (lights etc)with NO further drop in voltage i'd run with it and see how it goes. p.s. dont forget the optimate...LOL Yep, optimate on it's way. Yes, looks like the regulator/wiring has some history but running like a dream so far, fingers crossed. Thanks ALL for all your advice--invaluble as usual. Really helps having someone to talk to about problems. Owe you all a beer !! Gra Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisb3436 Posted May 24, 2012 Share Posted May 24, 2012 Hi I have a similar issue, starts fine runs like its misfiring did over 100 mile with lights on stopped had a brew and a butty then ready to move off and nothing didn't even try just click click, so the rectifier was replaced the battery was checked and double checked good quality gel battery by the garage yesterday started first time off to work 17 miles lights on 350yards from work sat in the middle of the road about to turn right engine light comes on flashes and then no power thinking stalled but no wouldn't restart, ended up pushing the darn thing 350 yards up hill thinking I had seized it Im not the brightess of woman. 40 mins later the battery picked up and it was trying to start on the button. sent hubby out for new battery. I'm loosing the will with this now please help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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