davekelly Posted February 16, 2010 Author Share Posted February 16, 2010 Once again you never let me down with your quick replies lol. Thanks I'll give those a try an see what happens. And thanks for looking into the pics. Your not from the Liverpool are you be handy havin someone close with the same type of bike. AND before people ask no I didn't steel the bike lol give Liverpool some credit it's improved Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted February 16, 2010 Moderator Share Posted February 16, 2010 Once again you never let me down with your quick replies lol. Thanks I'll give those a try an see what happens. And thanks for looking into the pics. Your not from the Liverpool are you be handy havin someone close with the same type of bike. AND before people ask no I didn't steel the bike lol give Liverpool some credit it's improved Thanks again As far as insurance goes i use CIA for mine, 160 quid fully comp with 100quid excess covers both of em. They are not the absoloute cheapest but i feel they are the best VFM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MaD.VeZ Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Once again you never let me down with your quick replies lol. Thanks I'll give those a try an see what happens. And thanks for looking into the pics. Your not from the Liverpool are you be handy havin someone close with the same type of bike. AND before people ask no I didn't steel the bike lol give Liverpool some credit it's improved Thanks again No problem. I'm from the other side of Manchester, about 30-35 miles on A roads. I can see why you didn't put your location in your profile now . CIA was a close second when i got my insurance, I was after the cheapest though being a Student. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MaD.VeZ Posted February 20, 2010 Share Posted February 20, 2010 Not had a lot of luck recently so not had the time to do much my bike, but i did find an old carb(89ish) in the shed whilst searching for some other parts. I thought i could use it as an example for you. DISCLAIMER. I am not responsible for any damage, destruction, explosions, fires or anything else caused by following my advice. Remember the carb may contain petrol and can and will catch fire if exposed to a naked flame or spark. You should also be aware I am not a trained mechanic, everything i know i have been taught by experience, friends or books. By following my advice you do so at your own risk! First off, I found another filter that isn't on the 97 model I'm most familiar with, but may be on the DT125RE. May be worth checking this filter to see if it solves the problem and save yourself some work. Fuel pipe connects to the circled inlet pipe.(filter shown partially removed) If you need info/pics on removing the carb from the bike let me know and ill see what i can do but it may take a while. A few pointers on removing the carb. Don't forget to plug the inlet port with a rag or similar to prevent debris falling in. Have some plugs/bungs handy for the heater pipes that connect to the carb from the cylinder head.(bolts work well or the dried silicone from the nozzle off the tube, cut to size) Pull the carb towards the rear of the bike to remove it from the rubber housings. Remove the throttle cable assembly at the earliest opportunity and tape/tie it out of the way. Take lots of pictures, i mean lots, get a friend/family member to help you if you can. Don't forget to turn the petrol tap off before disconnecting the fuel pipe. Make sure you clean the carb and working area before you start as the carb is very sensitive to dirt/debris. Also that the carb has been drained of all fuel with the drain plug at the bottom of the carb. Note: If anybody can see something i have over looked please mention it Well here goes, 1st thing i would do is take a picture or two of the carb with the breather pipes connected to ease in relocating them on refitting.(take lots of pics during dismantling as its always good for re-assembly reference). Remove the 3 retaining screws from the bowl. Separate the bowl from the body being mindful so as not to damage the carb internals and the o-ring gasket. Will require a bit of effort as the two are connected by a short pipe(power jet pipe), if the pipe can be removed prior to separating the two parts it will be better, but personally i haven't had much luck with that method without damage to the pipe. Power jet pipe. Carb internals. Once the bowl is removed a quick test on the power jet circuit may also save some work if it turns out to be blocked.(i have had issues with this before which did not affect the starting or low speed running of the bike, only when i tried to apply too much throttle it would cause the bike to stall.) A bit of air pressure applied to the top circled pipe should cause the air to be emitted from the lower circled hole. If not a soak for a few days with something like gunk or similar and then a blow through with some compressed air should clear it (I used a footpump and left the pressure on for a while before it cleared). Next i remove the floats as they are easily damaged/bent. Remove the pivot pin circled below, preferably using a small drift and light force. When removing the floats be careful not to drop/damage the floats or float needle. The float needle seat needs to be removed and checked for blockages and cleaned. Next up are the jets.(pictured with plastic guard thingy removed) The lower circle is the main jet and the upper is the pilot jet. To remove the main its a straightforward spanner/socket removal. The pilot is a little tricky as its housed in the bottom of a hole and will need either a fine flat bladed screwdriver or something modified to fit(I ground an Allen key to shape as it gave good leverage) Main jet. Should be cleaned with the method described by cynic (some fine soft wire (speaker wire is good), twisted together and run through the hole) I don't have a picture of the pilot, its stuck solid in the carb i have here, It's similar to needle jet(below) only smaller and is cleaned in the same way. Now the needle jet. The main jet is unscrewed from a brass insert, this is the needle jet and is removed by placing the carb upside down and using a drift and lightly tapping it out. Needle jet shown partially removed. Again cleaned using the same method as the other jets only this time there are more holes. After you have done the above it may be a good idea to soak the whole carb body and float bowl in something like carb cleaner overnight or longer if you can. And thats about it, just need to reverse the above to reassemble. Hope this helps and good luck. Vez. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted February 20, 2010 Moderator Share Posted February 20, 2010 Very informative thread Vez, if my old DT wasnt so 'new' i would be tempted to strip it down Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MaD.VeZ Posted February 20, 2010 Share Posted February 20, 2010 Very informative thread Vez, if my old DT wasnt so 'new' i would be tempted to strip it down Thanks Paul, hope the pics answered your question about the main jet too. I'll give you 6 months before you start tinkering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davekelly Posted February 21, 2010 Author Share Posted February 21, 2010 wow thats a great help thanks very much for that. really appreciate that as im sure you have other stuff to do. i'll give it a go at the weekend. thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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