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DT125 RE Advice


davekelly
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Hey everyone,

Hope someone can point me in the right direction with my issues below.

ive just bought a DT125 re everts. it runs fine but once left for a few days it takes 5-7 goes at starting it to get it going.

Also, once its been warmed up for a bit it idles and rides ok with the choke on (up position), but when i flick the choke off (down position) it'll cut out after 10 sec's or so and if rev'ed it'll burbble an stall (a stalling kind or burble if you get me).

i've changed the spark plug but thats it as i'm not too sure what else to do.

any input would be a great help

thanks

Dave

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Hey everyone,

Hope someone can point me in the right direction with my issues below.

ive just bought a DT125 re everts. it runs fine but once left for a few days it takes 5-7 goes at starting it to get it going.

Also, once its been warmed up for a bit it idles and rides ok with the choke on (up position), but when i flick the choke off (down position) it'll cut out after 10 sec's or so and if rev'ed it'll burbble an stall (a stalling kind or burble if you get me).

i've changed the spark plug but thats it as i'm not too sure what else to do.

any input would be a great help

thanks

Dave

Classic signs of some muck in the carb.

Remove the carb, carefully remove the float bowl and just run something thing thin like a couple os strands of copper from kitchen flex(copper is as soft as brass and won't damage it), that works ok, through the main jet and the pilot jet then re assemble. Don't be tempted to mess otherwise that should sort you out.

Edit: Before you have the carb off, just check the fuel delivery,any filters etc, the first coment about bad starting could be slow fuel delivery and it needs time to prime everything up.

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cheers for that much apreciated.

do you mean like one strand of a brillo pad? is it worth spraying some carb cleaner in there too?

cheers i'll check the fuel filters too. will the locations be in the user manual?

thanks again for the help

Carb cleaner only works if you are using it as a tool with others to clean a carb. It won't fix all your problems with a quick squirt (missus).

You need something thin enough and stiff enough to go through the jet openings like a chimney sweeps brush. Inside electrical flex, or speaker wire come to that, are lots of fine copper strands. Twist a few together that are 30-40mm long and you have a perfect jet rodding tool. It isnt strong enough or coarse enough to damage the jets and drillings but it is stiff enough to clear out any muck in the jets.

As to fuel filters there are a couple of possibles they should all be in the manual it depends if yamaha think you are clever enough to DIY it, or are you refering to a proper workshop manual like Haynes or Clymer they will be in there. Likely ones are a small metal filter in the carb fuel inlet, possibly a mesh one in the bottom of the fuel tap, also don't forget there may have been a previous owner sneaking an inline one in too.

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Water in the fuel tank does not help also, i found that condensation in the fuel tank over 6 months finds it's way through the filters and sits in the lower bowl of the float chamber in the carburettor, the main jet will not pull the water through as it is heavier than fuel. A quick test to see if you have contaminated fuel is to drain of some into a milk bottle and let it settle, the water will sit in the bottom if you have any in your fuel tank. :thumb:

You can try draining the carb via the drain screw located in the float chamber first before removing the entire carb.

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Guest MaD.VeZ

As to fuel filters there are a couple of possibles they should all be in the manual it depends if yamaha think you are clever enough to DIY it, or are you refering to a proper workshop manual like Haynes or Clymer they will be in there. Likely ones are a small metal filter in the carb fuel inlet, possibly a mesh one in the bottom of the fuel tap, also don't forget there may have been a previous owner sneaking an inline one in too.

There is one in the carb inlet but only on the older models, my 1997 has 1 but my 2004 doesn't. not sure when Yamaha stopped fitting them.

And the others are inside the tank on the end of the feeder pipes connected to the tap.

Also, if you do have much debris in your carb jets, you might want to check the power jet pipe, as its at the very bottom of the carb it gets clogged very easily. If left, it can be a pain in the a**e to clean should it become totally blocked (its the little pipe that connects the main body of the carb to the float bowl and the journal that runs to the inside of the float bowl).

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There is one in the carb inlet but only on the older models, my 1997 has 1 but my 2004 doesn't. not sure when Yamaha stopped fitting them.

And the others are inside the tank on the end of the feeder pipes connected to the tap.

How do you figure someone thought that was a good idea. On the older stuff like mine its in the bottom of the tap.

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Guest MaD.VeZ

Just came across this picture and thought i would post in case it helps.

DT125RE tap and filters

dtretap.JPG

Silly idea IMO, wonder if you would do any harm removing them and adding an in-line filter. Any thoughts?

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But if you start messing with the tap filter pipes your going to mess up your tank range? Also if they are the same length then your not going to have a reserve at all.

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Guest MaD.VeZ

But if you start messing with the tap filter pipes your going to mess up your tank range? Also if they are the same length then your not going to have a reserve at all.

The filters are just the parts circled (about 25mm long and identical) and come off leaving a pipe for main and a hole for the reserve. How can it effect tank range, i don't really see ? It will still get the same amount of fuel in the tank. Maybe the bike will get a few more miles from the main and less from the reserve.

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Guest MaD.VeZ

Cheers for that. I'm I checking if those filters are blocked in anyway and giving them a clean?

Any pics on cleaning the carb :)

thanks

I'll be cleaning mine this week and will try and get a few good pics or even a video if i can. Maybe weekend before i can post them though as i got alot to do, damn i hate what winter does to my bikes  :(

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I'll be cleaning mine this week and will try and get a few good pics or even a video if i can. Maybe weekend before i can post them though as i got alot to do, damn i hate what winter does to my bikes sad.gif

What does winter do to your bikes? just wondering!

Bit harder to start in the cold but does it do anything else----- engine wise

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Cheers for that. I'm I checking if those filters are blocked in anyway and giving them a clean?

Any pics on cleaning the carb smile.gif

thanks

If your bike is running good when you get it started then I would just do as Cynic said in his first reply.

Take carb off and only remove float chamber from the bottom. Be carefull not to bend or hit the float's themselves and just clean them two jets that you see.

Then put it back to-geather. Im only saying this cause, if you dont know much about your carb then dont mess about with any other settings cause the carb is a very tempermental thing, but if you wish to explore and lern then by all means go ahead !!

Once carb is back on, turn on fuel from tank. Then open drain screw on bottom of float bowl, allow some fuel to flow out, this will get rid of any water that might come through from the tank.

Tighten drain screw and try

ps. wait for Mad.Vez pics might be a good idea if you not in a hurry !

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What does winter do to your bikes?

Mine just completely refuses to leave the garage, my leathers hide on hangers under the stairs and my bike helmet seems quite happy to sit underneath them. :D

Been there doing the winter bit. I don't have to use my bike all year round so i dont. This year its in bits but the DT is generally buzzing about this time of year, but for fun on a lane and such. Sod dragging it out the garage at 2.30am to ride through frost and snow and, worst of all SALT for work.

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Guest MaD.VeZ

What does winter do to your bikes? just wondering!

Bit harder to start in the cold but does it do anything else----- engine wise

I don't think it makes a huge difference engine wise being cold. When its cold i make shorter journeys, and it results in a build up of carbon/coke in the exhaust port and cylinder head. Not being willing to go for a long ride once a week as i do in summer which helps keep it cleaner. Plus I ran out of fuel a few weeks ago and had to use some old stuff out of my shed as i was skint, knew it was bad by the smell. After riding for a day i remembered it was also pre-mixed with 2-stroke and octane boost for the off-road bike, just adding to the crap build up.

What upsets me about winter is the orange plague thats trying to eat my bike away and the road salt making it worse. When you do any work you have to see it as you take the bike apart, which leads to a whole lot of cleaning,polishing and re-painting.:(

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Did anyone manage to get any pics?

Seen as though a lot of you on this post have dt's I have an insurance question.

I'm 27 bought the bike for summer fun. I've got 3 points had a Cbt and a bike for 2 years. So this will be my 2nd Cbt I have to do. But after all that my insurance quotes are £450 plus and I've only put 2000 miles a year down. I'm shocked I have a Honda s2000 which us a group 20 and it's not much more than that.

Who do you guys go to. I guess if I'm only using it for the summer I can cancel the insurance for the winter etc

thanks

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Guest MaD.VeZ

Did anyone manage to get any pics?

Seen as though a lot of you on this post have dt's I have an insurance question.

I'm 27 bought the bike for summer fun. I've got 3 points had a Cbt and a bike for 2 years. So this will be my 2nd Cbt I have to do. But after all that my insurance quotes are £450 plus and I've only put 2000 miles a year down. I'm shocked I have a Honda s2000 which us a group 20 and it's not much more than that.

Who do you guys go to. I guess if I'm only using it for the summer I can cancel the insurance for the winter etc

thanks

Sorry about the pics it was one of them weeks last week. if the snow leaves me alone i will do it Wednesday/Thursday and post after that.

As for insurance its a minefield, i pay about the same, 28, CBT with no points and no no-claims. DTR's are notorious for being stolen and as such get stung on insurance. 

As you only want it for summer you can get pay as you go insurance,( just checked now and it would cost £70 a month for my DT and £30 a month for my sachs   :angry:, so maybe not a good option.) May be worth a look though.

http://www.ebikeinsurance.co.uk/

The only way to get the lowest price is to phone around and make them fight for your custom. I got a quote for £1100 from directline, so you may want to avoid them.

anyway i use http://www.motorcycledirect.co.uk/ . 0844 800 5299 , quote 7122 and you will get £25 off, doesn't apply to online quotes though.

Vez.

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