gs360 Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 HI all, I'm new to the forum and this is my first post. I have been riding for about a year now (BMW K100 RT) and I just acquired an 1976 XS 360. I was wondering if it had any quirks? I also need some specs for the plugs, where to buy a proper stator and if anyone know if a "cafe" style seat available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted January 31, 2010 Moderator Share Posted January 31, 2010 HI all, I'm new to the forum and this is my first post. I have been riding for about a year now (BMW K100 RT) and I just acquired an 1976 XS 360. I was wondering if it had any quirks? I also need some specs for the plugs, where to buy a proper stator and if anyone know if a "cafe" style seat available. gs360 have a look at the stcky in this sections as there are manuals which cover the range 250, 360 and 400 models spark is bp-6es, one of the small differences in the model range drewps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gs360 Posted February 1, 2010 Author Share Posted February 1, 2010 Ok, so I kinda got it running... The left cylinder sputters and pops but the right does nothing. I found an repair manual online but I didn't see anything about that. I have the points set and timed and the spark plug gaped. I am getting spark to both plugs. I know that the carb butterflies need to be the same (which I think they are), but why else would the right side not fire? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted February 1, 2010 Moderator Share Posted February 1, 2010 Ok, so I kinda got it running... The left cylinder sputters and pops but the right does nothing. I found an repair manual online but I didn't see anything about that. I have the points set and timed and the spark plug gaped. I am getting spark to both plugs. I know that the carb butterflies need to be the same (which I think they are), but why else would the right side not fire? shit in the right carb, try spraying easy start in the carb and see if it fires ( or dump some fuel into the cylinder) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldtimer Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 shit in the right carb, shit in the right carb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gs360 Posted February 1, 2010 Author Share Posted February 1, 2010 HA HA HA HAAA Funny... I hoped that was it too, but NOOOO I have a leaky right intake valve. Anyway to fix it with out taking the (*&Q#$^ thing apart? And would this cause it not to start at all? EDIT: WOO HOO!! I got a flame when I poured gas in it. So what in the Carb is causing it not to get fuel. I'm a novice at Carbs so I know a little about them but not much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted February 1, 2010 Moderator Share Posted February 1, 2010 shit in the right carb you've woken up from your hibernation OT? nice to see you again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted February 1, 2010 Moderator Share Posted February 1, 2010 HA HA HA HAAA Funny... I hoped that was it too, but NOOOO I have a leaky right intake valve. Anyway to fix it with out taking the (*&Q#$^ thing apart? And would this cause it not to start at all? EDIT: WOO HOO!! I got a flame when I poured gas in it. So what in the Carb is causing it not to get fuel. I'm a novice at Carbs so I know a little about them but not much. I'd say you need to take off both carbs and strip them down. get the manual in the sticky as it will show the different parts in the carbs. clean the outside first, then strip 1 carb at a time, and clean using carb cleaner and compressed air. strip down the brass parts and make sure you blow all orifices with air and cleaner. all it takes is a little specs to cause problems. run carb cleaner through all the carb galleries. its not too hard except for undoing the cheese head screws on the carbs!! use an impact driver if you have to ( but carefully) you can do this in an evening. id also fit an inline fuel filter in case there is crud in the fuel tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JYA12R Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 crud in the fuel tank. So, we are saying the crud in the fuel tank...turned into shit in the right carb.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gs360 Posted February 1, 2010 Author Share Posted February 1, 2010 OOOOOOHHHH You mean you have to set the points on the power stroke, not randomly... Cleaned the right carb, and it wasn't very dirty so I left the left carb alone. OK, so I got it running and it cuts off and I believe that's due to a bad intake valve. Anything else I need to adjust while I'm at it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRB Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Is your rubber intake (carb Holder) cracked? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gs360 Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 On the outside, but not 100% sure about the inside. So if I need to replace them where do I find parts? Also where do I find OEM parts for it? and a Cafe seat if anyone knows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRB Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 On the outside, but not 100% sure about the inside. So if I need to replace them where do I find parts? Also where do I find OEM parts for it? and a Cafe seat if anyone knows. Well GS360 you can check them by starting the bike then spraying carb cleaner or WD40 around the intake joint and see if it hesitates or just cuts the motor completely. Maybe a complete removal and inspection is in order if they lok suspect at all. It could be that the clamp needs tightening, the rubber is cracked all the way through or you have a bad gasket or possible need to tighten the intake rubber connection to the head (careful not to over-torque if you find that it's loose) . I think the XS400 intake rubbers will work if you can't track down the XS360 replacements, the factory part #'s are the same except for the first three digits. I know they use a similar carb if not the exact same one. Check the bigger motorcycle parts houses, they may also help on cross-referencing part #'s that work. BRB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gs360 Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share Posted February 3, 2010 ok I got the idle speed down to a norm, but noowww I have no power in my right cylinder and i hear a ticking noise, is this due to the (small) leaking intake valve I stated earlier? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRB Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 ok I got the idle speed down to a norm, but noowww I have no power in my right cylinder and i hear a ticking noise, is this due to the (small) leaking intake valve I stated earlier? Have you checked the gap on your valves maybe a little out of adjustment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gs360 Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share Posted February 3, 2010 No, I didn't even think to look at them. I used silicone to seal the carb collar due to a small leak, I will later replace them both. I want to make sure the bike is running right first, engine and tranny and then I will replace all the old parts. Speaking of the tranny, how do I remove the clutch cover on the tranny? I was wanting to tighten the cable but can't get the cover off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted February 3, 2010 Moderator Share Posted February 3, 2010 No, I didn't even think to look at them. I used silicone to seal the carb collar due to a small leak, I will later replace them both. I want to make sure the bike is running right first, engine and tranny and then I will replace all the old parts. Speaking of the tranny, how do I remove the clutch cover on the tranny? I was wanting to tighten the cable but can't get the cover off. you don't need to undo the cover. pop off the rubber bung on there and you will see a 10mm nut and screw slot. get a box spanner and slacken off the nut, with the screw driver through the box spanner lightly tighten,then back off 1/4 turn. holding the driver tighten the nut so it don't move. replace the bung slack at the clutch lever = 5mm drew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gs360 Posted February 4, 2010 Author Share Posted February 4, 2010 Drew, I have a looooot of slack, I finally got the old girl running and took a risk shifting the tranny on the center stand, I had the adjustment screw at the very end. I will get a box spanner and do what you said, but will it take up ~10mm? Another thing, how do I NOT use a battery? I have seen a lot of bar hoppers, bobbers and cafe racers with no battery in it and I like the way it looks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gs360 Posted February 4, 2010 Author Share Posted February 4, 2010 Anyone know if they make a rearset for the 360, or is the 650 set the same? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRB Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 Anyone know if they make a rearset for the 360, or is the 650 set the same? Raask makes a set that's supposed to work. I saw somewhere where a guy bought a set on eBay off of a Maxim/Seca and mounted them to his XS360/400. Here is a link for some XS650 rearsets that would be easy to convert but they look like there mounted with bushings instead of bearings, I think you would have to e-mail to find out specifics: XS650 Rearsets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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