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FZR600R


FZR600R1995
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Hi all! Got a query regarding my fizzer! I got an fzr600r on a 95 plate (incase you didn't guess!). Does anyone have problems with excessive softness in front forks?

And gotta say I had the bike 6 months and think its an excellent all rounder!!!

Dean

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  • Moderator

didnt have any soft problems with my '94 RR back in `96, have you tried upping the preload or changing the fork oil?

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  • Moderator

Hi,

I bought a 94 FZR600R on Friday after passing my test and have done 117 miles so far and havent noticed any fork issues. I have noticed though that the rear brake doesnt feel very strong.

Paul.

check the pads and bleed the system, but then again when has a rear brake being strong :lol:

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He he thats true mate but the GS500E(snigger) I learnt on had a noticebly sharper rear brake. Maybe it was adjusted for the learners, who knows lol

Paul.

if the gs has a drum rear brake maybe that's why it seamed sharper. all drum rears i've had have seemed better than disks :?

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The rear brake on my YZF is shite, even yamaha have agreed with me! Has had new braided hose, disk and pads, and new oil and bleeded !!! Still the same so looks like cylinder, but has no leaks :roll: :? :roll:

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  • 4 months later...

YZF rear brake:

Mine was shite, until I stripped it, New seals, Sintered pads, SS braided

hose and DOT5 fluid.

Now it's too bloody sharp.

Can't win.

Rob.......... :shock:

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The rear brake on my YZF is shite, even yamaha have agreed with me! Has had new braided hose, disk and pads, and new oil and bleeded !!! Still the same so looks like cylinder, but has no leaks  :roll:  :?  :roll:

Al, I found the same a year back - I even ran HH rated copper sintered pads and it was still rubbish.

Try a Carbone Lorraine pad, I started using them about a year ago and they are frankly 'the best pad going.'

The only problem is that when you have a good rear disc brake operation, you start to rely on it a lot more - gives the hand a break (arf arf) but the rear boot begines to suffer.

You rarely brake in bends so the only time you slam the anchor on is in or close to a straight line and the rear boot gets squared off - makes for crap handling.

Just make sure the rear is ok and concentrate on the front - that's where you need it.

J

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You can use DOT5 as it has less microbubbles in it and makes the braking sharper.

Its almost like cable tieing the lever over night, which you probably know

that some GP riders do.

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  • Moderator

You can use DOT5 as it has less microbubbles in it and makes the braking sharper.

Its almost like cable tieing the lever over night, which you probably know

that some GP riders do.

i do that :wink:

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  • Moderator

just found this though

"You should not use DOT 5 fluid in any racing application for the following reasons. DOT 5 fluid is not hygroscopic, so as moisture enters the system, it is not absorbed by the fluid, and results in beads of moisture moving through the brake line, collecting in the calipers. It is not uncommon to have caliper temperatures exceed 200° F, and at 212° F, this collected moisture will boil causing vapor lock and system failure. Additionally, DOT 5 fluid is highly compressible due to aeration and foaming under normal braking conditions, providing a spongy brake feel. DOT 5 fluid is best suited for show car applications where its anti-corrosion and paint friendly characteristics are important. "

HTH

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Beez,

Where did you find that info, because it was a motorcycle repair and service

garage that told me to use it.

Rob...........

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