CadXS Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 Has anybody replaced the XS400 steering head bearings with the taper ones? If so is it normal for the new top bearing cup to stick up above the level of the frame? Comparing the old cup I drifted out that fitted flush to the frame and the new one there is a marked difference in depth. Thanks Caddy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hebrew hammer Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 I just replaced mine yesterday, did you fit the seal/cup/cone thing flush into the frame? I took a mallet at it and evenly tapped the thing in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CadXS Posted December 7, 2009 Author Share Posted December 7, 2009 There is a lip about 5mm inside the neck of the frame that the old cup seated on. If I tap in the new cup (which is about 10mm deep to accommodate the larger taper bearing) it will also seat on this lip and about half of it will be proud above the edge of the neck part of the frame. If this is normal then ok...but I don't want to press in the new cup if this is wrong in case I need to return the bearing. Caddy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CadXS Posted December 8, 2009 Author Share Posted December 8, 2009 Here is what I'm trying to explain... The lip inside the steering neck (a bit blurred) The difference between the new (on the left) and the old bearing cups. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hebrew hammer Posted December 8, 2009 Share Posted December 8, 2009 it should be out a little bit like this. ]http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v463/GoranXS650/XS650%20Tinnis%20Project/Steering%20Bearings/?action=view¤t=2006-01-07SteeringBearings06.jpg But I had a little trouble fitting everything in all together so instead of it fully seated like that, I tapped mine in a little further in order to get everything to fit snugly. Did you keep the rubber seal on the bottom? Also make sure you did not confuse the upper with the lower ones. The lower ones are a bit bigger so they should slide down fairly easy. The upper ones should stop at the threads. I read a bunch of threads from other forums that ruined the bearings because they went at it with a hammer and wrong bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted December 8, 2009 Moderator Share Posted December 8, 2009 as far as i can remember , both the bearing races are the same size. i remeber this as I thought i'm made a boo boo and drifted out and swapped round to find exactly the same I took off the rubber seal on the bottom of the lower fork yolk to assist with fitment!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hebrew hammer Posted December 8, 2009 Share Posted December 8, 2009 drewpy my previous post was about the bearings itself not the bearing cups/races. But yea I put down what was packaged since each bearing had their own cup/race. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CadXS Posted December 8, 2009 Author Share Posted December 8, 2009 Thanks for the replies... Looking through the photobucket link that Hebrew Hammer attached (amazing restoration/custom work in there), I noticed that the upper bearing cup was proud of the frame as well and I cannot see how it can ever be any other way. My other issue now is whether to fit the cups before spraying/powder coating the frame or waiting till after. I think not putting in the cups could make the dry build more difficult than it needs to be, what do you think? Caddy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted December 9, 2009 Moderator Share Posted December 9, 2009 Thanks for the replies... Looking through the photobucket link that Hebrew Hammer attached (amazing restoration/custom work in there), I noticed that the upper bearing cup was proud of the frame as well and I cannot see how it can ever be any other way. My other issue now is whether to fit the cups before spraying/powder coating the frame or waiting till after. I think not putting in the cups could make the dry build more difficult than it needs to be, what do you think? Caddy most definatly after, just get a sharp knife and cut out any paint/powder coat. any good bike powder coaters should blank it off anyways drewps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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