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HELP RXS100 wont rev past 4k!!!!


Philosafa
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hey ive not bought my RXS100, its a beast!! now, yesterday it was running the best it has done for a while, then i ran out of petrol, switched over to the reserve tank, was still running fine, filled it up at the petrol station, switched it back over to the main tank and continued to ride home. then it started splutering and wouldnt rev atal although it would start and idle absolutly fine just as soon as i pulled the throttle the tiniest bit it would cut out.

so i cleaned out the carb, found a little bit of muck but no varnish. even swilled out the exhaust a little bit with some petrol. got it running again, idles fine will now rev to 6k in neutral but when its riding in whatever gear gets to 3-4k and just starts sputering and coughing and back firing.

got a 2 week old iridium plug in so that should be fine, its sunday so cant get another on yet.

anyone got any ideas??

thanks

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hey ive not bought my RXS100, its a beast!! now, yesterday it was running the best it has done for a while, then i ran out of petrol, switched over to the reserve tank, was still running fine, filled it up at the petrol station, switched it back over to the main tank and continued to ride home. then it started splutering and wouldnt rev atal although it would start and idle absolutly fine just as soon as i pulled the throttle the tiniest bit it would cut out.

so i cleaned out the carb, found a little bit of muck but no varnish. even swilled out the exhaust a little bit with some petrol. got it running again, idles fine will now rev to 6k in neutral but when its riding in whatever gear gets to 3-4k and just starts sputering and coughing and back firing.

got a 2 week old iridium plug in so that should be fine, its sunday so cant get another on yet.

anyone got any ideas??

thanks

Check your fuel filter, there is one in the bottom of the fuel tap, then make sure there is plenty of fuel coming through. Then with the engine running spray WD40 over all the pipework,clips, etc you disturbed while messing with the carb, see if that improves the way the motor runs.

If that all checks out ok clean the carb again.

It is incredibly easy to mess up cleaning a carb. Personally i have some household electrical flex, stripped off the white outer cable and snipped out one of the inners (blue if your botherd), then i have sripped the covering off the first 2cm or so and use that to poke and prod all the orifices in the carb. The thin copper will shift the bits that jamm up the openings but wont damage the jets or the drillings as it will bend first.

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thanks cynic,

didnt think about copper wire, do you think it would be ok to soak the carb in caustic soda? im gona get some tomoro to do my zaust propa and if it doesnt harm the main part of the carb (gonna take all the pins and jets out 1st) i mite aswell do it at the same time.

before you posted back, i had another go at cleaning the carb and shaking the coke out of the zaust and this time got up to 6k for 2 secs the went back to the same as before, then i tried a little rip down the lane without the baffle to see if i get different symtom, verdict: a little bit more "go" but the absolutly defoning lots of old people near to where i live, the old dears walking past giving me propa evils haha, i mite do it for fun every now and then.

does this sound like its blockages to you or electrical, im still paying a machanic for my last bike (chinese moped worst experience of my life!)so i cant afford to start paying a machanic again.

thanks soo much

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thanks cynic,

do you think it would be ok to soak the carb in caustic soda?

thanks soo much

Absoloutly and catagorically no, ferros metals like steel and iron can be cleaned with caustic as it has no effect on them. NON ferros metals like aluminium are the complete opposite if you drop your carby in a good strong caustic mix it will fizz like mad, and be completely disolved bar any inserts by morning.

You could soak it in parafin or diesel, that may help. White vinegar even. Compressed air and a bit of a poke about with the wire should sort you out though.

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thank god i asked i was gona just do it !!! lol im looking to buy some redex aswell isit ok in 2t engines? and more importanly worth my time and money?

Up to you really, i think its just hype. Pour stuff in the carb and watch the rubbish come out of the pipe. Yeah OK its just burning redex.

I understand if you use it in a pot with a paintbrush it gives ok results, but then parafin will do just as good and cost a lot less.

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ok, soaked carb for about 3 hours in vinagar, soaked exhaust for about 4 hours in soda, cot some copper wire, pocked and proded, and still no difference!!! even cut down my ht lead a little bit and reconnected, brand new sparky, drained tank, put fresh petrol in, and still no difference.

im getting really stressed i gota go back to work in 4 days and i got no transport. any other ideas? im pretty sure its not blockages, though i will hace another go at cleaning the exaust.

electrics maybe?

isit possible that the ignition coil can go just like that, would i get any spark atal if it did go

im lost!!!

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What year is the bike?

Have you got a haynes manual or similar?

Sounds like electrical (ignition) issue now as you have done most to the carb, but on the subject of carb you cant clean it properly by just soaking it for a while, you actually have to pull it apart including all the jets and clean everything properly with carb cleaner and compressed air (or an aerosol air spray available from computer shops)

Also was it a very wet day when it started playing up?

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got a 2 week old iridium plug in so that should be fine

thanks

Don't suppose you still have the old one just to prove the 'should be fine'

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its a 95 w reg, i took apart every part of the carb that you can, main jet, air jet etc, till all that was left was the aluminum main part of the carb. and soked the lot in distilled vinigar, re-tuned it when i put together acording to the Haynes manual i brought last week.

and i bought a new spark plug 2day, threw the old one coz it was black and oily.

i think that answers everyones questions.

the problem with the haynes is, im not a mechanic so quite alot of the electrical stuf is gobledegook to me

by the way thanks for everyones help!!!!

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I edited my post about has it been in a lot of rain, dont think you saw that. can you remove the cover fron over the magneto (left side?) and see if theres any sign of dampness in there and and inside of the case, start the engine and spray with WD40 through the gaps on the flywheel, this wont do any harm at all and worth trying. Also spray the ignition coil, the HT lead and cap and while youre at it...the sidestand switch.

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I edited my post about has it been in a lot of rain, dont think you saw that. can you remove the cover fron over the magneto (left side?) and see if theres any sign of dampness in there and and inside of the case, start the engine and spray with WD40 through the gaps on the flywheel, this wont do any harm at all and worth trying. Also spray the ignition coil, the HT lead and cap and while youre at it...the sidestand switch.

omg yes it been wet, i live in cornwall, rite at the arse end of the country where we get sea wind and moisture constantly!! riding in terrental quite alot, but when this 1st started it wasnt raining, ok ill spray everything and see what happens n let ya know

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By the way its a fairly modern bike, so has it got a vacuum operated fuel tap? This means that when you have had the carb apart you MUST switch to the 'PRI' or 'PRIME' position for a while in order to re-fill the carb float bowl...this applies when you have worked on the carb and when you run the tank completely dry.

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By the way its a fairly modern bike, so has it got a vacuum operated fuel tap? This means that when you have had the carb apart you MUST switch to the 'PRI' or 'PRIME' position for a while in order to re-fill the carb float bowl...this applies when you have worked on the carb and when you run the tank completely dry.

erm i dont think so, there isnt anything in the haynes? there is fuel in the carb bowl everytime i look, even afer i ran it dry to clear the tank of old fuel.??? how would you switch to prime?

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erm i dont think so, there isnt anything in the haynes? there is fuel in the carb bowl everytime i look, even afer i ran it dry to clear the tank of old fuel.??? how would you switch to prime?

An old school tap will say on it OFF...RUN (or ON)..RES and have only one tube...fuel to the carb

a more modern vacuum tap will say on it RUN (or ON)...RES...PRI and will have two tubes, one is fuel to the carb and the other smaller tube is vacuum to the carb manifold

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An old school tap will say on it OFF...RUN (or ON)..RES and have only one tube...fuel to the carb

a more modern vacuum tap will say on it RUN (or ON)...RES...PRI and will have two tubes, one is fuel to the carb and the other smaller tube is vacuum to the carb manifold

oh, i know what you mean now, no i only have one tube coming from the tap, it goes strait to the carb, actualy doesnt have a filter!! gota get one desperate.

theres three switces on my tap - reserve/off/on

so i dont think the problem lies there, when i emptied the tank i blew up the tube into the tank through both the on and reserve positions to clear out any debre from the tap and fuel line.

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oh, i know what you mean now, no i only have one tube coming from the tap, it goes strait to the carb, actualy doesnt have a filter!! gota get one desperate.

theres three switces on my tap - reserve/off/on

so i dont think the problem lies there, when i emptied the tank i blew up the tube into the tank through both the on and reserve positions to clear out any debre from the tap and fuel line.

Do me a favour...ride the bike and when its struggling pull the choke know...what then?

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Do me a favour...ride the bike and when its struggling pull the choke know...what then?

just tried that, no different.

but i have noticed somthing. when the bike is left to stand for a little bit when its not running, i set off and its asif the bike is back to normal up to 6/7k then i change gear and it then drops off and starts spluttering again, and if i come to a stop, gearing down properly i get down to gear one with the clutch all the way in it cuts out. but i start it again and it idles fine??? head scratcher???

do you reckon theres a blockage in the tap? how would you find out or clear that? i drained the tank in less then a minute so i assumed that was faster then the bike could drink it?

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just tried that, no different.

but i have noticed somthing. when the bike is left to stand for a little bit when its not running, i set off and its asif the bike is back to normal up to 6/7k then i change gear and it then drops off and starts spluttering again, and if i come to a stop, gearing down properly i get down to gear one with the clutch all the way in it cuts out. but i start it again and it idles fine??? head scratcher???

do you reckon theres a blockage in the tap? how would you find out or clear that? i drained the tank in less then a minute so i assumed that was faster then the bike could drink it?

I doubt there is a blockage in the tap as you said that you blew through it and it emptied the tank fast...however you have stated that there is no filter fitted so its possible there is a blockage between the carb fuel pipe spigot and the float needle valve, you would have to remove the carb again to check this and also unscrew the needle valve body, its interesting though what you are saying here...ie it seems ok just after you start it...did i read that right...maybe a badly restricted fuel supply? The things you have said do suggest this possibility, and pullung the choke as you said "made no difference" well it should have killed the engine or boosted it...made no difference...thats a restricted fuel supply possibility.

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