I am wanting to fit tapered air filters (or cones) to my bike - I am still going to use the 'H-pipe' connection - but, to richen it up, someone has suggested that I change my main jet from #117.5 to #120, raise my needle height 2 positions, and then possibly raise the float level slightly. This seems to match what is said in some 'CV Carb Tuning' link which was recommended to me on this site (thanks). I just want to know if this sounds right - or would it be too much - (the needle height?) - any ideas, or specific recommendations for jet size, etc., would be much appreciated. thanks.

I am wanting to fit tapered air filters (or cones) to my bike - I am still going to use the 'H-pipe' connection - but, to richen it up, someone has suggested that I change my main jet from #117.5 to #120, raise my needle height 2 positions, and then possibly raise the float level slightly. This seems to match what is said in some 'CV Carb Tuning' link which was recommended to me on this site (thanks). I just want to know if this sounds right - or would it be too much - (the needle height?) - any ideas, or specific recommendations for jet size, etc., would be much appreciated. thanks.

i think when this question has come up before, it all depends where you live!! it comes down to type of fuel and the climate.

I'd start rich like you have suggested and take the needle down to dial it in. better still invest some time on a dyno which will give you a fuelling curve and will gie you the info for your bike.

I'll be doing that with my tracker when it gets an MOT!!

drewps

It depends entirely on the rest of the engine set up. I had a xs400 that I fitted a very open pipe to and that made it run very rich. Rule of thumb increase the main jet size until you get a rich misfire, then come down 2 sizes.