NCRZRIDER Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 The tank on my '84 RZ350 developed pinholes from rust in the lowest part of the tank. (It's a common problem.) I tried a sealer kit from KBS Coatings. It sealed the tank initially, but three days later sprang several leaks. I bought a used tank from an '85 RZ which is much more solid than mine was. I want to seal it to prevent rust, but I want a sealer that works. (I'm leaning toward POR-15) I'd like to hear from anyone who has had experience - good or bad - with any brand of tank sealer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bowser09 Posted November 15, 2009 Share Posted November 15, 2009 The tank on my '84 RZ350 developed pinholes from rust in the lowest part of the tank. (It's a common problem.) I tried a sealer kit from KBS Coatings. It sealed the tank initially, but three days later sprang several leaks. I bought a used tank from an '85 RZ which is much more solid than mine was. I want to seal it to prevent rust, but I want a sealer that works. (I'm leaning toward POR-15) I'd like to hear from anyone who has had experience - good or bad - with any brand of tank sealer. HEY THERE, MY TANKHAD RUST ALL IN THE INSIDE LIKE YOURS AND I JUST PUT ABOUT A GALLON OF B-12 AND LET IT SIT FOR A DAY , BUT DURING THAT DAY SLOSH IT AROUND NOW AND THEN. A GOOD AMOUNT IS GONE, I PUT WATER IN THERE AND WHEN I PORED IT OUT NO RUST CAME WITH IT. CLEAR AS IT WHEN IN THERE. CHEAPEST WAY I WOULD SAY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCRZRIDER Posted November 16, 2009 Author Share Posted November 16, 2009 Thanks bowser. The KBS kit contains a solution which seems to have eliminated the original rust, but it also opened up new pinholes which did not immediately appear. I'm looking for a sealer to use to seal the holes after the rust is neutralized. It's possible that my tank is beyond repair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YPVS TONE Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 I had the same problem on my 1983 powervalve and found a product in the UK available from Tankcare products known as PR1005L which you slosh inside the tank after it has been fully degreased and then let the excess run out.It leaves a flexible coating on the inside of the tank which is fuel resistant and is what they use to line aircraft fuel tanks.Don't use the epoxy type coatings i.e petseal as these will eventually start to break up.Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCRZRIDER Posted November 17, 2009 Author Share Posted November 17, 2009 Thanks, Tony. I may try that. Their Web site indicates they deal with very large tanks. Do they offer a product small enough for an RZ tank? If so, is it available in the US? I had the same problem on my 1983 powervalve and found a product in the UK available from Tankcare products known as PR1005L which you slosh inside the tank after it has been fully degreased and then let the excess run out.It leaves a flexible coating on the inside of the tank which is fuel resistant and is what they use to line aircraft fuel tanks.Don't use the epoxy type coatings i.e petseal as these will eventually start to break up.Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YPVS TONE Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 They do a 500ml tin which is enough for a 5 gallon tank so is enough for an RZ tank.Not sure if they ship abroad but if you type in "PR1005L" in google you might find someone who does it in the US. Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedshop Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 As an aircraft engineer I'll tell you what we use PR1005L for.....its to protect the main fuel tank sealant while it cures. Its painted on with a brush over the PRC sealant so we can get fuel back in the tanks quicker. I'm not sure I'd trust it for the sort of repair you have in mind, its too thin for a start. I'm guessing all the holes are in the bottom? I'd use something called deox-c (google it) to remove all the internal rust then depending on how bad it is weld or braze the bottom of the tank up. If you want extra piece of mind Pr1005l would protect the repairs inside the tank for a very long time. And yes avoid the epoxy sealants, unless you enjoy picking bits of it out of the carbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCRZRIDER Posted November 25, 2009 Author Share Posted November 25, 2009 Yes. The holes are at the bottom and a little way up the sides. The holes are small and are surrounded by enough good metal so that I can have them brazed. Before that, I need to get the KBS coating out. They claim a paint stripper with a high % of methylene chloride will work, but that's pretty nasty stuff. I guess I have no choice if I want to use the tank. Assuming I get all of the KBS out and braze all the holes, how is the PR1005L applied? One of the problems with this tank is that the baffle at the top makes it impossible to see any of the inside surface of the tank. How will I know when the entire surface is covered? I have the same problem with the stripper - how will I know when all of the KBS is gone? P.S. I'm checking daily on Ebay for a tank in better shape. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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