1976 Yamaha 175 DT (Clutch?)

[The Redbaron]

As you can see,

You can see the sprocket, and the magnitto case,

there is a screw where the clutch goes down into the engine,

what is that screw for?

I ask this question because,

my clutch has been acting up,

and I'm trying to sell my bike,

this makes it hard when I let go of the clutch fully, and it seems like someone is still holding it....

Please help me out.

[nayruf]

As you can see,

You can see the sprocket, and the magnitto case,

there is a screw where the clutch goes down into the engine,

what is that screw for?

I ask this question because,

my clutch has been acting up,

and I'm trying to sell my bike,

this makes it hard when I let go of the clutch fully, and it seems like someone is still holding it....

Please help me out.

I have just looked at the photo, I find the picture confusing because the X head screw and the component it screws into look more like the neutral switch to me. My 1977 DT 175 has a lock/nut and then there is a threaded screw with a X head on it and this screws through the lock nut, it is used for initial adjustment when setting up the clutch.

[Cynic]

As you can see,

You can see the sprocket, and the magnitto case,

there is a screw where the clutch goes down into the engine,

what is that screw for?

I ask this question because,

my clutch has been acting up,

and I'm trying to sell my bike,

this makes it hard when I let go of the clutch fully, and it seems like someone is still holding it....

Please help me out.

Sometimes you just can't see the obvious. Its not like a DT 175 either early or late because it isnt a DT engine, its for a TY175, broadly similar to a later dt motor but the gearshift layout is different. The gearshaft on a DT goes right across the motor to the RH side behind the clutch. On the ty it is partly on the left side as well behind the cover held in place with the screws you can see bottom centre behind the sprocket.

The screw in question on a later DT is a grub screw to keep the operating shaft in place and uses a sealing washer. The earlier system has a 10mm nut with a posi head in the centre that does the adjusting.

I may be wrong but thats how it looks to me from the pic.

If you could post the Engine no we would be able to check properly.

[Airhead]

That picture is causing some problem, normally if it were an adjuster there would be a locking nut also. However did you check out the cable? a fraying or old and rusty cable will have this affect

[The Redbaron]

That would be a picture of the engine,

I found that the bolt is over the adjustment nut, the size of the bolt is 17mm,

moving the screw left and right makes the clutch move up and down.

I notice playing with it helps very little with my clutch slipping.

[Cynic]

That would be a picture of the engine,

I found that the bolt is over the adjustment nut, the size of the bolt is 17mm,

moving the screw left and right makes the clutch move up and down.

I notice playing with it helps very little with my clutch slipping.

Well now we have the full picture and?, i know the DT 175 line up pretty well but i'm stumped. Can't really help you without an engine number to get the proper vehicle. The twin plug head suggests v early (although they rarely had 2 plugs in em), but the cases have a later look to em. The barrel shape is also DT like. Dunno sorry.

[Airhead]

The two plug head. When new one of the plug holes would have had a blanking plug in it, there was an optional extra de-compression kit available that fitted into this hole, I guess it would have been quite handy out on the trail when descending steep loose surfaces as it would have given some engine braking. as for the clutch its quite probable that your plates have worn out if you are getting clutch slip, you will have to check them with a micrometer or vernier against specifications. Apparenty the screw were all talking about is indeed an adjuster in your case. loosen the cable from the lever and turn that screw until there is just a little free play at the operating arm then do up the locknut. As i said earlier check your cable isnt stiff or frayed.

...Paul

[Cynic]

I'd still like to know what it is though. OG.

[The Redbaron]

I don't think it's a old clutch cabble,

but I will look into it,

but for now, I'm going to take more picture of the bike, considering people want to more about it.

[Cynic]

Ha Ha found the bastard, its a DT175 all right but mechanically its the missing link as far as europe goes between the CT1 and the MX's mechanically.

A european bike will be numberd 1G1-000101 on and available late 76- early78 But in the states they had this crankcase set ( which is basically the TY layout with a different stator rotor, clutch mech and top end ) from 74to76. Through the DT 175 A,B and C

That screw is a slightly different take on the later MX system just a bit more OTT, all it does is stop the opperating arm coming out, tighten it up so it is just tight then back it off a quater and lock it up with the locknut. Thats it it has NOTHING to do with the clutch slip unless it has been tightend up far enough to lock the opperating arm.

[The Redbaron]

Ha Ha found the bastard, its a DT175 all right but mechanically its the missing link as far as europe goes between the CT1 and the MX's mechanically.

A european bike will be numberd 1G1-000101 on and available late 76- early78 But in the states they had this crankcase set ( which is basically the TY layout with a different stator rotor and top end ) from 74to76. Through the DT 175 A,B and C

That screw is a slightly different take on the later MX system just a bit more OTT, all it does is stop the opperating arm coming out, tighten it up so it is just tight then back it off a quater and lock it up with the locknut. Thats it it has NOTHING to do with the clutch slip unless it has been tightend up far enough to lock the opperating arm.

Ahhh,

Thank you very much,

is there at all any way to fix a slipping clutch,

or does this mean I need to go buy something for it?

I'm positive it's not the cable,

this is how bad the clutch is now.

It drives at good speeds unless you get about 6,000 rpms, then the cluch slips, (basicly winding up acting as if there was no chain)

I have adjusted the cable and find that as tight as I can get it, it still rolls in any gear, meaning I can't jump start it if something goes bad.

(Please forgive me for my poor grammar, I'm a bit lazy with typing.)

[nayruf]

Ahhh,

Thank you very much,

is there at all any way to fix a slipping clutch,

or does this mean I need to go buy something for it?

I'm positive it's not the cable,

this is how bad the clutch is now.

It drives at good speeds unless you get about 6,000 rpms, then the cluch slips, (basicly winding up acting as if there was no chain)

I have adjusted the cable and find that as tight as I can get it, it still rolls in any gear, meaning I can't jump start it if something goes bad.

(Please forgive me for my poor grammar, I'm a bit lazy with typing.)

As Cynic has identified that the adjustment screw is just an early hybrid design. If the clutch cable is ok, the only thing left to do is to start from the beginning as if you were setting up the clutch after a rebuild, I would remove all adjustment from the clutch cable then as Cynic said, I would adjust the screw as per his instruction, I would re-adjust the cable at the mid cable adjustment point to get the cable length correct, then I would adjust at the lever to get the free play required, If after all of this it still slipped and.

‘I WAS SURE THAT THE OIL IN THE GEARBOX WAS OF THE CORRECT TYPE AND GRADE’.

I would bite the bullet and look at removing the clutch cover to examine the clutch.If you do decide to take the clutch out when you drain the gear box oil examine it for evidence of malfunction, also have a good look through the filler hole to see if there is any obvious U/S components.

I would only strip the clutch out if I had ruled out all other options, I realise that this is stating the obvious ' but this would be my approach,

Hope you can find the problem without taking out the clutch.

[Cynic]

Ahhh,

Thank you very much,

is there at all any way to fix a slipping clutch,

or does this mean I need to go buy something for it?

I'm positive it's not the cable,

this is how bad the clutch is now.

It drives at good speeds unless you get about 6,000 rpms, then the cluch slips, (basicly winding up acting as if there was no chain)

I have adjusted the cable and find that as tight as I can get it, it still rolls in any gear, meaning I can't jump start it if something goes bad.

(Please forgive me for my poor grammar, I'm a bit lazy with typing.)

Well from the Photo's we can see that the bike is obviously meticulously maintained (sic) so my guess would be clutch wear and if you keep at it letting it slip it will ruin the metal plates as they will warp.

You need to have the clutch cover off, then you can see if the actual mechanical clutch opperating rod needs adjusting as that could be proping the clutch open slightly due to the wear in the friction plates, or ham fisted adjustment in the past. You may even get something from popping some washers in under the springs as a stop gap.(Hope the prospective purchaser isn't reading this )

It could also just as likely be worn out and need a new set of springs and plates.

[popalong]

I have just looked at the photo, I find the picture confusing because the X head screw and the component it screws into look more like the neutral switch to me. My 1977 DT 175 has a lock/nut and then there is a threaded screw with a X head on it and this screws through the lock nut, it is used for initial adjustment when setting up the clutch.

i have a dt400e and when i tore down the engine mine had the same screw.it is a cam lock screw, if you take it out, you can pull out the clutch lever without pulling the case apart.screw it in till it dead stops (clutch cable disconnected)back off the screw untill you can move the lever on the case then stop, the lever wont come out, screw it all the way out. and you can remove the lever,