Benihana Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 Hey guys, This morning I was riding to work as usual, got about 5 miles from my house, when suddenly my bike lost power, looked down at the dash and there were no lights (all digital display), I managed to pull in and tried to start the bike, but I couldn't get anything out of it. I can't get the dash to even flash on for a second. I thought, must be a dead battery or alternator? Tried to use the foot crank, which made the headlight (or at least head light dash icon) flash up for a second, but wouldn't start at all. So I got a lift home with the battery, put it on charge (optimate 4) which immediately said the battery was full, went through all the checks and it confirmed the battery is in good health (only 2-3 months old anyway) It looks like I'm going to go and walk the bike home, but I wondered if you guys had any ideas where to start looking? Starter motor/solenoid? The bike doesn't click or whirr or do anything when I turn the key which makes me think its not a relay. Really baffled by this, the bike is an 05 model and has about 4.5k on the clocks, had a service last week (sprocket, chain, plug and oil) and has been running better than ever, now this! Any help is appreciated, I've read a few horror stories about broken clutches when I had a look for people with similar problems. Hope you can help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hughsie Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 I am, by no means, mechanically trained, but could there be a loose connection to the battery? I have no idea, but I think the engine needs the battery to remain running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benihana Posted September 29, 2009 Author Share Posted September 29, 2009 I am, by no means, mechanically trained, but could there be a loose connection to the battery? I have no idea, but I think the engine needs the battery to remain running. I checked all the connections to the battery first, found out that the fuse nearest the battery had gone (red 10amp blade type), how would I go about hunting down the short that caused it? Whereabouts would the earth be on these bikes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gas up - Let's Go! Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 When they build the bigger XT's they are sods for over-tightening the cable ties that hold the main wiring looms to the frame. The result can be the cables wearing away and getting a short to the frame. This would most definitly blow the main fuse. This may or may not be the cause of your problems, easy enough to check though, just follow the wires and look for wear. On singles, you do get more vibration. Never heard of it on a 125 though. It could also be a problem with the Voltage Rectifier/Regulator, a bit easier to check, just disconnect it and see if you get power back to the dash/console. Then check across the pins to see if you can find a closed circuit. Whatever it is, it shouldn't be too hard to spot, if it can take out a 10amp fuse, it's fairly substantial. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benihana Posted September 29, 2009 Author Share Posted September 29, 2009 The only trouble I spotted was the cable going into the starter motor. The wire seemed fairly substantial, but the screw, washer and welded nut part were all rusted quite badly. I cleaned them up and put in a new washer and screw. I had the engine ticking over for about 15 minutes and it worked perfectly. Some of the cable ties were a little tight looking, I'll check these out as well. The only other thing i'd like to check is the earth, any idea where these are on the larger XT's? Thanks for all the suggestions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmartin898 Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 sounds like the stator wiring not sending enough charge to create the spark also the neutral connection could be loose that way the electrics dont know you have the ungine in neutral happened with my xt125x 05 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benihana Posted January 5, 2010 Author Share Posted January 5, 2010 sounds like the stator wiring not sending enough charge to create the spark also the neutral connection could be loose that way the electrics dont know you have the ungine in neutral happened with my xt125x 05 Hmm good plan, would starting it in 1st (clutch in obviously) be a potential way to check this? Or is there a better way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted January 5, 2010 Moderator Share Posted January 5, 2010 so the battery is ok, bike is not very old. This may sound a bit odd but could you see HOW the fuse had gone. There are 3 real options: 1 Fuse element blown away = very high energy short circuit. 2 Fuse element blackend with a small break or visibly wilted, heat evident on the fuse plastics. = Very slow overload, typical of regulators etc gradually increacing current untill the fuse finaly fails. 3 Its just broke, no discolouring or heat effects = Most likely a duff fuse, more common than you think. Now you have it running pop a voltmeter across the battery terminals and see what you get, the manual will tell you but between 13 and 14 volts would be what i would expect at around 6thou rpm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedshop Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 fuses do just go with age. I'd change it and see what happens. If it took out all the bikes electrics it sounds like the main fuse - and 10 amps sounds too small. think about it, standard headlamp 6 amps, ignition 1-2amps, battery charging 2- 0 amps, rear and auxiliary lighting at least 1 amp............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benihana Posted January 5, 2010 Author Share Posted January 5, 2010 fuses do just go with age. I'd change it and see what happens. If it took out all the bikes electrics it sounds like the main fuse - and 10 amps sounds too small. think about it, standard headlamp 6 amps, ignition 1-2amps, battery charging 2- 0 amps, rear and auxiliary lighting at least 1 amp............. As I started this thread a while back, I remember I found what seemed to be the problem, but not an explanation. On the carb there is a gold coloured...protrusion! Which unscrews from the carb housing, there is a washer with a right-angled attachment that connects to a spade type connector. The end of the 'screw' ends in a rounded knob which connects to round (almost bullet style) connector. The round connector has a transparent jacket insulating it, which had a rather bad scorch mark, indicating (to me at least) some kind of short. I re-wrapped the insulator with electricians tape and it hasn't shorted out since (blew through about 5x 10-amp fuses before frustration kicked in) I can provide pics later, but this is an obvious connection on the carb (as its the only gold coloured object on it!) It's still a pig to start by the way, the chokes seems to have no effect and luck dictates when it will fire up, and for how long (until warm) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedshop Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 As that unit on the carb probably has some influene on the mixture, I'd have a guess that there lies the reason for poor starting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted January 6, 2010 Moderator Share Posted January 6, 2010 The unit on the carb most likely shuts the fuel off to the carb. A variation on the vac tap idea, when the ig is on fuel can flow when its off, well you know. It would blow the main ig circuit if it shorted. As to the running, have you any fuel filters in there, or try giving it half a minute for the float chamber to top up before you start it. It is still worth checking the choke system and any minor intake leaks. Hows the air filter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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