mcmunzell Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 Hey everyone. New to Yamaha forum. I have a 79 400 xs thats been sitting for 3 years. I just got back and the tank is varnished and rusted inside. Muriatic? Phosphoric? Vinegar? Coca-Cola? Dont know too much about cleaning carbs. I could use a bit of opinions on that. My right signal works. My Left does not. I hear a click when I go right. No click when it goes left. I switched bulbs. Same thing. Right works. Left nothing. I put volt meter...getting 12v current to the right when switch goes right. No current to the left when switched left. Took apart switch. Sprayed and checked connections. Nothing corroded. All grounds are good. Switch or Flasher? Opinions are great. Thank you Mcmunzell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted August 14, 2009 Moderator Share Posted August 14, 2009 Hey everyone. New to Yamaha forum. I have a 79 400 xs thats been sitting for 3 years. I just got back and the tank is varnished and rusted inside. Muriatic? Phosphoric? Vinegar? Coca-Cola? POR do a tank cleaning and relining kit Dont know too much about cleaning carbs. I could use a bit of opinions on that. ultrasonic cleaning is the way to go, carb kits from sirusconic. My right signal works. My Left does not. I hear a click when I go right. No click when it goes left. I switched bulbs. Same thing. Right works. Left nothing. I put volt meter...getting 12v current to the right when switch goes right. No current to the left when switched left. Took apart switch. Sprayed and checked connections. Nothing corroded. All grounds are good. Switch or Flasher? Opinions are great. Thank you Mcmunzell try earth connections on stalks first drewps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Breakfree Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 Hi, Indicators, run a strip of fine (600) abrasive paper between the internal brass contact faces. Are you getting current to the input side of the switch? Check that the current is passing to the output side of the switch whilst you have it apart. Are the switch faces actually touching each other, maybe they are leaving an air gap, try easing one side out a bit. Test that first by switching on, check for current with a meter and bridge the gap with a screwdriver, if bulb is not lit it must be the wiring to the bulb. Carb cleaning, Drop the float chamber and brush gently round with aerosol carb cleaner, rebuild, start the engine and give several short squirts of cleaner into the venturi whilst on half revs. I've used aerosol stuff several times and found it OK, ultrasonic is certainly better but much more expensive and more trouble stripping the carbs. Tank, for varnish I'd use a liquid solvent rather than a handful of sharp stones, they are OK for rust but still need lots of rinsing afterwards. I've not tried it but I'd start with a vigorous enemel thinners containing xylene rather than cellulose gunwash or turpentine, experience may prove me wrong. Good luck. PS I just remembered that my Serow lights don't work until the engine is running, I don't suppose your wiring is supposed to be like that and the one that is lit is faulty, that would be too silly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcmunzell Posted August 16, 2009 Author Share Posted August 16, 2009 Hi, Indicators, run a strip of fine (600) abrasive paper between the internal brass contact faces. Are you getting current to the input side of the switch? Check that the current is passing to the output side of the switch whilst you have it apart. Are the switch faces actually touching each other, maybe they are leaving an air gap, try easing one side out a bit. Test that first by switching on, check for current with a meter and bridge the gap with a screwdriver, if bulb is not lit it must be the wiring to the bulb. Carb cleaning, Drop the float chamber and brush gently round with aerosol carb cleaner, rebuild, start the engine and give several short squirts of cleaner into the venturi whilst on half revs. I've used aerosol stuff several times and found it OK, ultrasonic is certainly better but much more expensive and more trouble stripping the carbs. Tank, for varnish I'd use a liquid solvent rather than a handful of sharp stones, they are OK for rust but still need lots of rinsing afterwards. I've not tried it but I'd start with a vigorous enemel thinners containing xylene rather than cellulose gunwash or turpentine, experience may prove me wrong. Good luck. PS I just remembered that my Serow lights don't work until the engine is running, I don't suppose your wiring is supposed to be like that and the one that is lit is faulty, that would be too silly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcmunzell Posted August 16, 2009 Author Share Posted August 16, 2009 Thank you for the responses. I dunked the tank in pure acid and it took everything out including metal. I then put 2 stroke and gas oil mix to coat for flash rust and then dried it out. Worked like oiled tits. thank you. As for the carbs...I did take the float bowls off and then the others. I douched the main jets and pilot...looked pretty damn clean on the inside! I have two filters I use....put the new ones back on. The bike runs like a screaming banshee that took his morning shit with coffee. Thank you. There is the proverbial turn signals. I did do and check everything you said to do. I have NO CURRENT to the left at all. I hear a "click" when going to the right...and nothing going to the left. The volt meter said 0 on left. I checked higher up...and then higher up....zero current. Im thinking the switch gave the ass and a new one is in order...thoughts? I could care less if the indicator blinks (which it does not), I just want both to work. Getting tired of the boys harassing me saying "PAPERS PLEASE" like it was pre WW2 Germany! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Breakfree Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 I just had a pointless idea, how about feeding juice into the dead bulb holder and testing how far it gets down the wires? Think of the confusion when you find volts on the input side of the switch, Or better still, as you suggest, just fit your new switch. Good luck John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcmunzell Posted August 16, 2009 Author Share Posted August 16, 2009 I just had a pointless idea, how about feeding juice into the dead bulb holder and testing how far it gets down the wires? Think of the confusion when you find volts on the input side of the switch, Or better still, as you suggest, just fit your new switch. Good luck John Done that....John... Why do the people at MIKESXS never get back to you and when they do...they are a buncha wanks on the email? Just wondering if a 650xs indicator switch would work on a 400....thats all i could find! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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