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Gear lever axel on 500 XS broken


XS 500
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Went off the road today with my XS 500 -78. The only damage seems to be that the gear lever went up, shifted through the gears to fifth and then the shift shaft snapped straight off at the lock ring where it enters the gearbox.

Now I simply wonder, how much must I pull apart in order to get the last piece out and get the new shaft in.

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Went off the road today with my XS 500 -78. The only damage seems to be that the gear lever went up, shifted through the gears to fifth and then the shift shaft snapped straight off at the lock ring where it enters the gearbox.

Now I simply wonder, how much must I pull apart in order to get the last piece out and get the new shaft in.

if its like the xs400, you need to drain the oil out and take off the right cover. than dismantle the gear selector parts and slide out the shaft. I bought a new one from yambits as its the same as an RD400 D/C

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if its like the xs400, you need to drain the oil out and take off the right cover. than dismantle the gear selector parts and slide out the shaft. I bought a new one from yambits as its the same as an RD400 D/C

Drewpy is correct.

http://parts.yamaha-motor.com/partimage.gi...45951,2,0,sport

I cant actually link to this image because it is dynamic (you can zoom in and out)

so you will just have to look at it.

You will need a new right side gasket... just using liquid gasket might cause some problems with clearance. This is one of the most difficult parts to find for the 500\'s... the gaskets got eaten up quickly because they burned through heads so fast.

look around and see if you can find one, and if worse comes to worse, you can buy gasket material and try to make your own.

The important part to pay attention to when reinstalling this is that the spring (part 5) must straddle the post (part 13). If it does not, it will not work properly.

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Drewpy is correct.

http://parts.yamaha-motor.com/partimage.gi...45951,2,0,sport

I cant actually link to this image because it is dynamic (you can zoom in and out)

so you will just have to look at it.

You will need a new right side gasket... just using liquid gasket might cause some problems with clearance. This is one of the most difficult parts to find for the 500\'s... the gaskets got eaten up quickly because they burned through heads so fast.

look around and see if you can find one, and if worse comes to worse, you can buy gasket material and try to make your own.

The important part to pay attention to when reinstalling this is that the spring (part 5) must straddle the post (part 13). If it does not, it will not work properly.

Doesnt I have to remove the clutch also? Or can I actually get the gear lever assembly out underneath the clutch???

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Doesnt I have to remove the clutch also? Or can I actually get the gear lever assembly out underneath the clutch???

Looking at my service manual, it appears that it is mostly behind the clutch basket assembly... so yeah, it looks like you will have to pull the clutch. You will have to try that once you get it apart though, as I have never pulled mine apart.

*edit*

If you do end up having to remove the clutch, either purchase a clutch holder tool, or find someone with air tools. The torque on the nut that holds the clutch basket in place is usually pretty high.

Do not try to hold it in place with a screwdriver. It will bend or break the soft metal... <-- speaking from experience.

Also, a strap or chain wrench might allow you to undo the nut, but will not hold it steady enough to put it back on and torque it down.

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Looking at my service manual, it appears that it is mostly behind the clutch basket assembly... so yeah, it looks like you will have to pull the clutch. You will have to try that once you get it apart though, as I have never pulled mine apart.

*edit*

If you do end up having to remove the clutch, either purchase a clutch holder tool, or find someone with air tools. The torque on the nut that holds the clutch basket in place is usually pretty high.

Do not try to hold it in place with a screwdriver. It will bend or break the soft metal... <-- speaking from experience.

Also, a strap or chain wrench might allow you to undo the nut, but will not hold it steady enough to put it back on and torque it down.

Does your manual says how many newton meter of torque it should be on that nut?

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Does your manual says how many newton meter of torque it should be on that nut?

7.5-8.0 m/kgs

Keep in mind, my manual is for the B,C, and E models. I believe that your 78 should be an E? so I think that this torque is correct.

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