bikemadbaz Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 It just gets better. the guy I am trying to rewire his bike xs650, now wants a micro switch for his lights. I went to maplins and got a tiny three position switch. the guy said I would need a relay to work the lights or the switch will burn out. GREAT !!!!!!!!!!!!! Ok so here is the deal, I need to fit this switch to work on/off of lights, side light, dip and main. I dont think one switch will do it, so may need two. Any electrical wizards out there that can reply with a shetch of how to achive this? or has anyone done this in the past? thanks for all your help so far, look forward to your theories and answers. Bazza. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uzi_999 Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 It just gets better. the guy I am trying to rewire his bike xs650, now wants a micro switch for his lights. I went to maplins and got a tiny three position switch. the guy said I would need a relay to work the lights or the switch will burn out. GREAT !!!!!!!!!!!!! Ok so here is the deal, I need to fit this switch to work on/off of lights, side light, dip and main. I dont think one switch will do it, so may need two. Any electrical wizards out there that can reply with a shetch of how to achive this? or has anyone done this in the past? thanks for all your help so far, look forward to your theories and answers. Bazza. Hi Baz, Maplins (a right old ripoff) was right tho, u'll need a relay.. You should be fine with two switches: sw#1- for the sides/beams/off - youll need a spdt (make sure they lock in both on positions, and have an off in the middle - 3 positions in total) sw#2- for selecting dipped beam/full beam - again a spdt (and the same brackets note as above) (i'll get u the exact maplin codes for switches if u want, just lemme know, PM if u want, or just lemme know on this thread) youll also need ermm, 3 relays: sidelights, dipped beam, full beam.. there MUST be, and most definately are relays that can be used for all three, but in not too sure with the wiring on them.. ill get my gfx tablet out, and knock up a few quick diagrams matey for what i propose!! *watch this space* ill have it knocked together by midday-ish.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uzi_999 Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 where abouts are you located mate? and has the bike already got working lights and relay(s)?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikemadbaz Posted June 19, 2009 Author Share Posted June 19, 2009 where abouts are you located mate? and has the bike already got working lights and relay(s)?? lights work of one of thoes shit switches you put on the bars. power to them comes from the ignition switch. there are no relayss in the circuit. thanks for you help. I am in north linclonshire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uzi_999 Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 lights work of one of thoes shit switches you put on the bars. power to them comes from the ignition switch. there are no relayss in the circuit. thanks for you help. I am in north linclonshire. so it must be a somewhat BIG switch then??! What lights are on there now? sidelights, and a headlight (with full and dipped beams)?? Ive done a quick draft diagram, but this is negative switched (i think bikes have negative switched circuits [can somebody pls clarify] (ill be able to check mine over the weekend)) and this diagram applies, if you want sides, full and dipped beams..its a rough diagram, if u swing by an auto electrician, theyll be able to figure out from my diagram.. otherwise, let me know, and ill get the relay info (i.e. which pin is what).. i wouldnt mind meeting up, and lending a hand, but im afraid that lincolnshire is a bit too far from my shire, london.. any questions, pls dont hesitate to gimmie a shout mate.. or if anyhting is unclear mate, lemme know.. later on tonite, ill stick up a quick jargon buster here, like what spst and spdt is all about, and what realys do (if youre interested mate - just gimme a shout via this thread) hope it helps mate. uzi_9999 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikemadbaz Posted June 19, 2009 Author Share Posted June 19, 2009 so it must be a somewhat BIG switch then??! What lights are on there now? sidelights, and a headlight (with full and dipped beams)?? Ive done a quick draft diagram, but this is negative switched (i think bikes have negative switched circuits [can somebody pls clarify] (ill be able to check mine over the weekend)) and this diagram applies, if you want sides, full and dipped beams..its a rough diagram, if u swing by an auto electrician, theyll be able to figure out from my diagram.. otherwise, let me know, and ill get the relay info (i.e. which pin is what).. i wouldnt mind meeting up, and lending a hand, but im afraid that lincolnshire is a bit too far from my shire, london.. any questions, pls dont hesitate to gimmie a shout mate.. or if anyhting is unclear mate, lemme know.. later on tonite, ill stick up a quick jargon buster here, like what spst and spdt is all about, and what realys do (if youre interested mate - just gimme a shout via this thread) hope it helps mate. uzi_9999 thanks for your help already, yes please to jargon buster, and please to the relay number thing. thanks again. bazza. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimR Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 It just gets better. the guy I am trying to rewire his bike xs650, now wants a micro switch for his lights. I went to maplins and got a tiny three position switch. the guy said I would need a relay to work the lights or the switch will burn out. GREAT !!!!!!!!!!!!! Ok so here is the deal, I need to fit this switch to work on/off of lights, side light, dip and main. I dont think one switch will do it, so may need two. Any electrical wizards out there that can reply with a shetch of how to achive this? or has anyone done this in the past? thanks for all your help so far, look forward to your theories and answers. Bazza. Hi Bazza, whats wrong with the original wires & switches ... if you want new ones (micro switches) I guess you just need to connect them up to the old wires assuming the loom is working ok. If the current is to great for your new switches you will need to fit a relay in order to tone down the current supplied. I would guess if you have a working loom it would be easy to follow the original switches .. but tbh what do you need ? Regards Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uzi_999 Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 but tbh what do you need ? Regards Jim Exactly what i was thinking mate.. If there are switches on it, im pretty sure that it must have relays, unles somebody done a bodged up jobbie on it! Anyhow, in my somewhat silly looking diagram, spst is single pole single throw - a normal switch, on/off.. spdt would be a switch, both ways on, but switch on a different circuit (most also have an 'off' position) a relay is like a "switched switch" - basically, a current is passed thru the relay, and due to that, another circuit is made complete.. a pdf with more info on relays *clicky* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uzi_999 Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 lights work of one of thoes shit switches you put on the bars. power to them comes from the ignition switch. there are no relayss in the circuit. thanks for you help. I am in north linclonshire. hold on, its not like u mentioned as stock, is it?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted June 20, 2009 Moderator Share Posted June 20, 2009 hold on, its not like u mentioned as stock, is it?? Maplins remote control, box under the seat or wherever. Wire your lights through it so that they are done from the remote. 3 latching or non latching contacts depending on your choice. One for ig, one for lights one for main beam. Bond a magnet to the back of the remote and stick it on the tank/bars and you have NO visible switching as well as being high load contacts (16A i think) and you can do the remote game turning the bike off/ lights on/off etc from 30 yards away. Use 2 and you can really go to town with one using latching contacts and the other non latching. I use one for the ignition on my suzuki, i have all the wiring required to start it routed behind panels that need tools to move. No keys required, no scratches on the yolk. Was awkward for a moment with a bobby tho Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uzi_999 Posted June 20, 2009 Share Posted June 20, 2009 Maplins remote control does it have built in relays?? if so, pls pls pweeeeeeeze can i have a link/item code, theres so much i could do with it on my poor little 125 ermm, the horn, the full beams, and ermm, the third can be.. (we'll decide later ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted June 21, 2009 Moderator Share Posted June 21, 2009 does it have built in relays?? if so, pls pls pweeeeeeeze can i have a link/item code, theres so much i could do with it on my poor little 125 ermm, the horn, the full beams, and ermm, the third can be.. (we'll decide later ) This is taken straight from Maplins web site. I've had one doing the ig on my suzuki for over a year. Just make sure when you use it, when the bike is 'off' all the switching is in the normally open position or over a week or so it will flatten the battery. Which will indirectly have the result of switching your bike on. How much power it can handle, dunno exactly think its about 10A DC. All i run is the ig on my bike and its fine. And turning your bike off from 20 yards as you walk away across the car park is still funny. The blokes at work think i have a fancy alarm system. I know people who have rigged up a second unit to start the bike as well. "Three Channel Wireless Remote Control Kit only £35.99 Order Code: L28BK In Stock* Product Features Complete 3 channel remote control system Switches up to 12A at 230Vac mains Up to 70m range High security protocol Easy learn transmitter feature Easy installation via screw terminals Momentary or latching outputs Requires no radio licence A versatile general purpose remote control, which can be used for controlling many different applications such as garage doors, garden lighting, gate and door control, etc. The system utilises a highly secure code-hopping protocol to ensure safe operation. Easy to install, the receiver is connected using standard screw terminals and is powered from 12Vdc. The three output relays can switch up to 12A at 230Vac mains and are operated individually by pressing the corresponding keyfob button. Each of the relays can individually be set to toggle on/off or switch momentarily when the transmitter button is pressed. The system is supplied with one three-button keyfob transmitter and the receiver can learn up to a total of 6 keyfobs for multiple users. If a keyfob is lost or stolen, then simply reset the unit and teach it a new keyfob code. Additional three-button keyfobs are available: Order Code RN57M. Back to Top Technical Specification Specifications: Transmitter battery: 23A (supplied - replacement JG91Y) Operating frequency: 433.92MHz Receiver supply voltage: 12Vdc Receiver current: 6mA (standby), 66mA (switching) Three relay outputs rated at: 12A peak / 5A continuous @ 230Vac Back to Top " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
little dave Posted June 21, 2009 Share Posted June 21, 2009 having a remote for the horn is quite fun! on my suburban, my alarm has a output for the trunk release, hold the button down and the wire gets current until you let go of the button. bear in mind that i have an onboard air compressor and a 2 gallon tank hooked to a set of 24 & 26 inch airhorns like the ones on a peterbilt. my alarm has a 1000 foot range and so i can scare the pants off of people nearby with ninja like stealth. although remote start on my dt175 wouldnt work... onless the setup includes a robotic leg for the kickstart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikemadbaz Posted June 22, 2009 Author Share Posted June 22, 2009 hold on, its not like u mentioned as stock, is it?? no its a chop. with one of thoes tacky tin switches on the bars, three toggle and two buttons, I can understand why he wants to change it, it looks pants. http://s291.photobucket.com/albums/ll312/b...-272002-001.jpg worse than the one in the picture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uzi_999 Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 no its a chop. with one of thoes tacky tin switches on the bars, three toggle and two buttons, I can understand why he wants to change it, it looks pants. http://s291.photobucket.com/albums/ll312/b...-272002-001.jpg worse than the one in the picture. then i'd recommend trying out my diagram.. but first, check if your ike is negative switched.. (basically, the +ve to the headlight for example, is always live. The switch determines wether the -ve is connected - cars are wired this way and so i assume motorcycles MIGHT be, im not sure tho, hence i asked you to check first) If that is not the case, let me know, and i'll slightly modify the diagram.. But whatever the case, connect it all off the bike, make sure it works then start installing.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted June 23, 2009 Moderator Share Posted June 23, 2009 then i'd recommend trying out my diagram.. but first, check if your ike is negative switched.. (basically, the +ve to the headlight for example, is always live. The switch determines wether the -ve is connected - cars are wired this way and so i assume motorcycles MIGHT be, im not sure tho, hence i asked you to check first) If that is not the case, let me know, and i'll slightly modify the diagram.. But whatever the case, connect it all off the bike, make sure it works then start installing.. Std motorcycles are negative switched always have been as far as the japs go, it reduces cable size and switch size as the current has already passed through the load and is therefore reduced due to work losses. It also reduces the no of fuses needed and makes wiring easier as you have an AC feed and a DC and thats about it on the older stuff. All you need from there are the lines to the item you are switching. Very simplified but thats the idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uzi_999 Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 Std motorcycles are negative switched always have been as far as the japs go, it reduces cable size and switch size as the current has already passed through the load and is therefore reduced due to work losses. It also reduces the no of fuses needed and makes wiring easier as you have an AC feed and a DC and thats about it on the older stuff. All you need from there are the lines to the item you are switching. Very simplified but thats the idea. thanks for clearing that up mate right mikemadbaz, my diagram should be fine, but test it off the bike first.. take a look at that pdf i linked to in the earlier post (in this thread) for info on relays.. hope it helps and best of luck with the project mate.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikemadbaz Posted June 25, 2009 Author Share Posted June 25, 2009 thanks for clearing that up mate right mikemadbaz, my diagram should be fine, but test it off the bike first.. take a look at that pdf i linked to in the earlier post (in this thread) for info on relays.. hope it helps and best of luck with the project mate.. thanks to every one for all your help. will be doing it next week. Will keep you all posted when I do. thanks again. Bazza. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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