derelicte Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 My bike is finally about road ready after a new rear tire and inspection by a shop, but since I picked it up the turn signals have not been working correctly. Switched on (engine off) I can hear a relay click once when I move the signal lever left or right, but the most that has ever produced was an indicator that comes on solid, not blinking, or I just get no light at all. Usually no amber indicator on the center amber "idiot light" between the gauges but occasionally that will come on. I doubt anyone has messed with the wiring with this bike... Is there a fuse somewhere to check? Nothing under the seat is obviously blown. Thanks for any tips. Also would I be legal if I was riding for a time on a bike EQUIPPED with signals (as required by ohio law) and using hand signals? thanks again guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DTGordo Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 Hi Mate, If all the lights are good I'd be checking the voltage on the battery and that all the connectors are clean/good. Then I'd be thinking faulty switch. Hopefully just a loose wire and you're good to go...... Gordo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cegan09 Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 how do they work when the bike is running? both my xs500 and by friend's kz400 exibit the same thing you describe with the engine off, but work fine with the engine on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derelicte Posted June 16, 2009 Author Share Posted June 16, 2009 how do they work when the bike is running? both my xs500 and by friend's kz400 exibit the same thing you describe with the engine off, but work fine with the engine on. Same problems with the engine on ... When I pick it up Ill start checking connections. Gordo do you think if the wiring is good its the actual signal switch (on the handlebars) or is there a relay that might be replaced? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
little dave Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 sounds like it could be the flasher unit itself. i dont know about yours, but mines a thermal contact unit. occasionally the points will get carboned just like engine points. I use a nailfile. also on mine, the "can" that holds all the guts crimps around a circuit board of sorts that holds the points. a wire leads off the points assembly and to the top of the "can". I assume that it holds a capacitor. the "can" then grounds to a metal contact on the circuit board at a crimping point. I have found carbon buildup there as well. clean and recrimp. my flasher unit is $150.00 at the dealership. im sure that i can find one cheaper on fleabay, but...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cy Welch Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 If you put non yamaha bulbs in the turn signals they are problably 21 watt instead of the 27 expected by the flasher unit. This will keep them from working properly in many cases. My cure was to go to the local auto parts store and get a TWO prong electronic flasher unit (auto type) and up it in, it only works one way, and the auto cancel doesn't work anymore but the flasher works perfectly every time. I don't like the auto cancel anyways so it's no real loss to me. The other option is to find the 27 watt bulbs that it wants and put them in, but personally I prefer the flasher since then you can switch out for LED bulbs and take some of the load off an already overstressed charging system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derelicte Posted June 19, 2009 Author Share Posted June 19, 2009 If you put non yamaha bulbs in the turn signals they are problably 21 watt instead of the 27 expected by the flasher unit. This will keep them from working properly in many cases. My cure was to go to the local auto parts store and get a TWO prong electronic flasher unit (auto type) and up it in, it only works one way, and the auto cancel doesn't work anymore but the flasher works perfectly every time. I don't like the auto cancel anyways so it's no real loss to me. The other option is to find the 27 watt bulbs that it wants and put them in, but personally I prefer the flasher since then you can switch out for LED bulbs and take some of the load off an already overstressed charging system. Went out on my first ride today... About half an hour in a parking lot and then some back country roads back home, was a blast. Before I left, the guy who did the work gave me a new relay (the metal "can", 3 pronged; is this what you mean by flasher or is that a different part?). It was untested but he said what the hell. Installed it and it did not fix the problem. It didn't make a clicking noise at all when turning on the turn signal - the old one did click. Clearly the replacement I got is bad but do you think the old one might be faulty despite the fact it makes an audible click? Thanks again guys. I'll check out the bulbs tomorrow to see if any were replaced with incompatible bulbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffrich13 Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 I AM GETTING FRUSTRATED!!! I have replaced the flasher, checked the wiring and fuse, and I still have no turn signals... what am I over-looking??? Now all of a sudden, my brake lights decided to stop working as well..I checked the switches for resistance and power, its all good but not. Any advice will be appreciated!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DTGordo Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 I AM GETTING FRUSTRATED!!! I have replaced the flasher, checked the wiring and fuse, and I still have no turn signals... what am I over-looking??? Now all of a sudden, my brake lights decided to stop working as well..I checked the switches for resistance and power, its all good but not. Any advice will be appreciated!!! Sorry, didn't see the post a couple of days ago but it sounds like you checked the wiring including the switches. Looking back through the posts have you check the battery for charge? I don't know the XS but I would expect the signals and brake light to run off the battery. If the battery has required volts then the problem is with wiring to the lights/switches. If bad volts it's either a bad battery or bad charging system. It sounds that way if the brake light is also not working now. My flasher won't work if not enough volts. When you say it you checked the power, you have power at the swtiches but not the lights? Not sure if helpful but I tried three flasher units before I got it to work. The first one from a wrecker that looked the same and should be from a DT, 2nd was a two pronged jobby because they didn't have a three pronged and the guy said that it would work and lastly a three pronged which worked great. Gordo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derelicte Posted June 19, 2009 Author Share Posted June 19, 2009 Sorry, didn't see the post a couple of days ago but it sounds like you checked the wiring including the switches. Looking back through the posts have you check the battery for charge? I don't know the XS but I would expect the signals and brake light to run off the battery. If the battery has required volts then the problem is with wiring to the lights/switches. If bad volts it's either a bad battery or bad charging system. It sounds that way if the brake light is also not working now. My flasher won't work if not enough volts. When you say it you checked the power, you have power at the swtiches but not the lights? Not sure if helpful but I tried three flasher units before I got it to work. The first one from a wrecker that looked the same and should be from a DT, 2nd was a two pronged jobby because they didn't have a three pronged and the guy said that it would work and lastly a three pronged which worked great. Gordo Gordo - the unit I replaced was indeed the flasher... New one did not click at all, while the old one (back on) will click once. My manual says that hearing only one click is commonly a failed flasher, but could I make sure its not just low voltage (my battery is iffy) by hooking up the battery to my car with some jumper cables and then trying the signals? TIA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DTGordo Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 Gordo - the unit I replaced was indeed the flasher... New one did not click at all, while the old one (back on) will click once. My manual says that hearing only one click is commonly a failed flasher, but could I make sure its not just low voltage (my battery is iffy) by hooking up the battery to my car with some jumper cables and then trying the signals? TIA Yep as long as the voltage is the same hooking it up that way should be ok to check like you say. They both run off 12V? It would be easier though to run a volt meter across it. They are really cheap but do the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DTGordo Posted June 20, 2009 Share Posted June 20, 2009 A battery place should be able to check it for you as well. They should be able to tell if it will hold its charge or is stuffed. If you think its dodgy, you'll need to get a new one either way. Hope you get it sorted soon.... Gordo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derelicte Posted June 20, 2009 Author Share Posted June 20, 2009 A battery place should be able to check it for you as well. They should be able to tell if it will hold its charge or is stuffed. If you think its dodgy, you'll need to get a new one either way. Hope you get it sorted soon.... Gordo We might have a volt meter lying around somewhere but for now I tried hooking up to some jumper cables and the signals still didn't work. Im going to hope faulty flasher, will post up with the results after I get another replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
little dave Posted June 20, 2009 Share Posted June 20, 2009 I dont mean to sound like a nag, but since you have 2 flashers that dont work, perhaps try taking apart one like i desribed earlier. at this point you really have nothing to lose by doing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derelicte Posted June 24, 2009 Author Share Posted June 24, 2009 I dont mean to sound like a nag, but since you have 2 flashers that dont work, perhaps try taking apart one like i desribed earlier. at this point you really have nothing to lose by doing it. Not naggy at all, considering you went through the trouble to post up the tip... I'll be honest though I hadn't yet tried cleaning the spare flasher unit. The hit and miss nature of the signals (maybe once on a ride they would come on for a turn) made me think it was the handlebar mounted signal switch. I used a product called Deoxit (a contact cleaner) a year back to fix up the pots on a vintage stereo receiver I bought. Its basically an electrical contact cleaner. With the battery disconnected I sprayed a few shots of that in there and worked the switch back and forth a few hundred times. Let that sit overnight and the next day the signals were working 100%. I checked the bulbs as described and do think they were all replacements - they weren't clearly labelled but I think they are 32 watt sylvanias instead of the 27. The deoxit cleared up my problem though before I went to the dealer to get some replacements, so they'll stay for now. Thanks everybody for the tips. If anyone is having trouble with their signals I'd try the switch first before trying to replace their flasher. good luck jeffrich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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