75RD200 Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 Hey all, hope all is well. Had a question for someone familiar with this. I need to replace the points and condensers on my RD200. I went to the local Yamaha place and they don't see any being made for my 200. However they have them for a RD250. I was wondering if the points and condensers could be used on my 200 even though they are for a 250. I love this bike to death but I hate how I can never find parts for it lol. She is my pride and joy and I want to get her back on the road ASAP! Thanks in advance for any and all help you could help me with. I really appreciate it. Take care. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralph Dearden Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 Hi, I have just fitted new points and condensors to my '76 RD200, which I bought from a seller on ebay called yambits. Hope this helps. Ralph. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twin Shock Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 Points, PN 183-81421-19-00 Condenser #1, PN 132-81226-90-00 Condenser #2, PN 132-81225-90-00 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75RD200 Posted June 16, 2009 Author Share Posted June 16, 2009 Awesome thank you two so much! Contacted a dealer and gave him the numbers and also found that guy on ebay. If the dealer can't get them I'll be going through ebay! Ralph Dearden have another question for you,ha. Just out of curiosity what do rpms do you have your rd200 set at? Do you also know what voltage it needs to be at to charge the battery when running. I hear it needs to be around 13.4 volts and for 13.4 volts to happen on my bike it has to idle about 2700rpms. But I can idle it down to about 1500 or so before the red light starts to come on a little bit. Wasn't sure if you knew any of that. Thanks again in advance and also for the previous help. Take Care Jeremy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimR Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 Awesome thank you two so much! Contacted a dealer and gave him the numbers and also found that guy on ebay. If the dealer can't get them I'll be going through ebay! Ralph Dearden have another question for you,ha. Just out of curiosity what do rpms do you have your rd200 set at? Do you also know what voltage it needs to be at to charge the battery when running. I hear it needs to be around 13.4 volts and for 13.4 volts to happen on my bike it has to idle about 2700rpms. But I can idle it down to about 1500 or so before the red light starts to come on a little bit. Wasn't sure if you knew any of that. Thanks again in advance and also for the previous help. Take Care Jeremy Hi Jeremy, the charge light coming on at less than 1500 rpm is not to much of a problem .. The RD200 runs a dynostart system ... which means below certain engine speeds the unit thinks its a starter and above that its charging the battery etc. The light should come on below 1500 rpm as the unit is really in starter mode and not charger mode, but this does get worse with brush wear.. a new set of brushes and clean segments will allow the bike to idle with no charge light coming on, but a few starts will then bring the light on at low RPM. If the battery remains charged there will be no need to adjust the VR but if you have the light going out & no battery charge you will need to adjust the VR (maybe clean the points in the VR or adjust the no load voltage, via the little screw on the back of the points contained in the VR). Do you have any charging problems ? Regards Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75RD200 Posted June 16, 2009 Author Share Posted June 16, 2009 Hi Jeremy, the charge light coming on at less than 1500 rpm is not to much of a problem .. The RD200 runs a dynostart system ... which means below certain engine speeds the unit thinks its a starter and above that its charging the battery etc. The light should come on below 1500 rpm as the unit is really in starter mode and not charger mode, but this does get worse with brush wear.. a new set of brushes and clean segments will allow the bike to idle with no charge light coming on, but a few starts will then bring the light on at low RPM. If the battery remains charged there will be no need to adjust the VR but if you have the light going out & no battery charge you will need to adjust the VR (maybe clean the points in the VR or adjust the no load voltage, via the little screw on the back of the points contained in the VR). Do you have any charging problems ? Regards Jim Not to my knowledge. I've just set it to 13.5 volts... The bike has never not started or anything and battery is good. Just so I understand correctly because I'm not all that knowledgeable on this stuff. At idle, aslong as the red light is not on the battery is not being drained? and it may be a lower rpm that the light comes on at. I can let you know once I have the new points and condensers in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimR Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 Not to my knowledge. I've just set it to 13.5 volts... The bike has never not started or anything and battery is good. Just so I understand correctly because I'm not all that knowledgeable on this stuff. At idle, aslong as the red light is not on the battery is not being drained? and it may be a lower rpm that the light comes on at. I can let you know once I have the new points and condensers in. Hi, The red charge light should glow @ about 1.5k rpm this will give no detriment to the bike at all but if the light is on bright you will need to check/replace the brushes and/or clean the commutator segments. when fitting new points & condensers gap the points to 12 thou @ tdc and set the timing to 1.8mm btdc (don't use the timing marks use a dti to ensure you are accurate) fully advanced, use a cycle spoke bent double and pushed thro the holes in the advance unit bob weights to advance it. note the points should be gapped without the the advance unit being advanced. If the bike is running fine & never fails to start why are you fitting new points & condensers ? If you have idle problems (with good starting and running) I would suspect you have some problems with the carbs rather than the ignition system. Regards Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75RD200 Posted June 18, 2009 Author Share Posted June 18, 2009 Hi, The red charge light should glow @ about 1.5k rpm this will give no detriment to the bike at all but if the light is on bright you will need to check/replace the brushes and/or clean the commutator segments. when fitting new points & condensers gap the points to 12 thou @ tdc and set the timing to 1.8mm btdc (don't use the timing marks use a dti to ensure you are accurate) fully advanced, use a cycle spoke bent double and pushed thro the holes in the advance unit bob weights to advance it. note the points should be gapped without the the advance unit being advanced. If the bike is running fine & never fails to start why are you fitting new points & condensers ? If you have idle problems (with good starting and running) I would suspect you have some problems with the carbs rather than the ignition system. Regards Jim Hey thanks for the help! Reason for replacing points and condenser is because it keeps fouling out on the left cylinder. I still don't understand on the battery question. Is there a certain voltage it needs to be at for the battery to be charging or aslong as the red light is not on I am all good. Thanks for the help again and Thanks for the gaping numbers! Take care Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75RD200 Posted June 18, 2009 Author Share Posted June 18, 2009 Hi, The red charge light should glow @ about 1.5k rpm this will give no detriment to the bike at all but if the light is on bright you will need to check/replace the brushes and/or clean the commutator segments. when fitting new points & condensers gap the points to 12 thou @ tdc and set the timing to 1.8mm btdc (don't use the timing marks use a dti to ensure you are accurate) fully advanced, use a cycle spoke bent double and pushed thro the holes in the advance unit bob weights to advance it. note the points should be gapped without the the advance unit being advanced. If the bike is running fine & never fails to start why are you fitting new points & condensers ? If you have idle problems (with good starting and running) I would suspect you have some problems with the carbs rather than the ignition system. Regards Jim Hey thanks for the help! Reason for replacing points and condenser is because it keeps fouling out on the left cylinder. I still don't understand on the battery question. Is there a certain voltage it needs to be at for the battery to be charging or aslong as the red light is not on I am all good. Thanks for the help again and Thanks for the gaping numbers! Take care Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimR Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 Hey thanks for the help! Reason for replacing points and condenser is because it keeps fouling out on the left cylinder. I still don't understand on the battery question. Is there a certain voltage it needs to be at for the battery to be charging or aslong as the red light is not on I am all good. Thanks for the help again and Thanks for the gaping numbers! Take care Hi, Plug fouling on the left hand cylinder does not indicate (always faulty points). Given the bikes age there is a chance that the fouling is down to another reason ! First off if the condenser is down totally no spark at all. Condenser partially faulty you would get a misfire with the lights switched on and not a total foul. Ignition timing (previous post) could cause a foul. but I did find more than one CS/RD 200 foul the left plug due to the laberinth seal being faulty, but tbh pull the carbs apart clean them & set the ignition up correctly, if it still does it I would guess the lab seal .... big job sorry Regards Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75RD200 Posted June 19, 2009 Author Share Posted June 19, 2009 Hi, Plug fouling on the left hand cylinder does not indicate (always faulty points). Given the bikes age there is a chance that the fouling is down to another reason ! First off if the condenser is down totally no spark at all. Condenser partially faulty you would get a misfire with the lights switched on and not a total foul. Ignition timing (previous post) could cause a foul. but I did find more than one CS/RD 200 foul the left plug due to the laberinth seal being faulty, but tbh pull the carbs apart clean them & set the ignition up correctly, if it still does it I would guess the lab seal .... big job sorry Regards Jim Yeah, I hear you. I am replacing the condensers, but the points are pitted pretty bad so I am replacing both. While I am there sounds like a good idea to me. Start small first, see if it fixes the problem then go from there. But it is missing on the left side until it finally will foul the plug. I tested the condenser for it's microfarad capacity and it was only like 1.2 and it is rated for 2.2 so it is partially bad if it isn't holding it's capacitance. My theory is try one thing at a time, if you are into everything that may be wrong at once, yeah you probably will fix the problem but you still aren't sure what was causing the problem. So if it happens again what do you fix? I am not sure what a laberinth seal is. Maybe you can tell me what it is, so if this doesn't work I will try that. Also how do you time the bike. You mentioned timing, is that just a static timing. What are the steps to checking the timing? Where are the timing marks? One last question, what compression should the motor be putting out? Thanks for the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimR Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 Yeah, I hear you. I am replacing the condensers, but the points are pitted pretty bad so I am replacing both. While I am there sounds like a good idea to me. Start small first, see if it fixes the problem then go from there. But it is missing on the left side until it finally will foul the plug. I tested the condenser for it's microfarad capacity and it was only like 1.2 and it is rated for 2.2 so it is partially bad if it isn't holding it's capacitance. My theory is try one thing at a time, if you are into everything that may be wrong at once, yeah you probably will fix the problem but you still aren't sure what was causing the problem. So if it happens again what do you fix? I am not sure what a laberinth seal is. Maybe you can tell me what it is, so if this doesn't work I will try that. Also how do you time the bike. You mentioned timing, is that just a static timing. What are the steps to checking the timing? Where are the timing marks? One last question, what compression should the motor be putting out? Thanks for the help Oh Ok, dont forget the lab seal !!! it lives in the aliminum section between to 2 cylinders .. which is between the two inner main bearings. Static timming is :- setting the points to 12 thou at tdc then advancing the ignition via the cycle spoke & turning the motor back by 1.8mm to where the points should just break(open). looking at the reading you have from the condenser I guess you have other problems with the bike which may be a timing issue or a seal one. Last point compression :-if the bike blows your finger off the plug hole (with a burn or force) the compression will be fine if not suspect that. but I do suggest that the Lab seal is at fault Regards Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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