mike1949 Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 Coming home from work last Tuesday I found it very difficult to change gear, more down than up. Luckily I managed to go through town in second/third gear without stopping. Thursday night I removed the clutch cover after hearing a very weird noise from that area. The problem was the clutch release bearing which is about the size and thickness of a flat washer. I did have this problem about three years ago shortly after buying the bike and left it to the dealer who sold me the bike and they charged me £187.00. It took me 1.1/2 hours to do it myself and cost me £10.00. There are two issues here. Is the thrust bearing up to the job? Did the Yamaha dealer rip me off? What I might do as a matter of course is change the bearing every two years. Below is the bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike1949 Posted June 14, 2009 Author Share Posted June 14, 2009 Going on from my original topic, I really do think that the bike is fantastic, when it goes it goes really well, but when it goes wrong it's a very expensive pain in the arse. I bought it nearly four years ago for £2000.00 and since then it has cost me over £2000.00 in repairs and servicing. Yes I do use it every day as a workhorse but I was lead to believe that was the ideal bike for it. Maybe JimR could answer this, would a xj900 be more suitable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimR Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 Coming home from work last Tuesday I found it very difficult to change gear, more down than up. Luckily I managed to go through town in second/third gear without stopping. Thursday night I removed the clutch cover after hearing a very weird noise from that area. The problem was the clutch release bearing which is about the size and thickness of a flat washer. I did have this problem about three years ago shortly after buying the bike and left it to the dealer who sold me the bike and they charged me £187.00. It took me 1.1/2 hours to do it myself and cost me £10.00. There are two issues here. Is the thrust bearing up to the job? Did the Yamaha dealer rip me off? What I might do as a matter of course is change the bearing every two years. Below is the bearing. Hi Mike, from the look of that bearing I would guess you may have a blocked oil gallery .... but looking at the bearing I would have guessed the rest of the actuation would have needed to be replaced (outer plate of the clutch & the pull arm) so I would guess on both points I would have to say no ! Regards Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barkwindjammer Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 Wow a bit of scuffing there if I'm not mistaken, think Jim R correct on oil flow ! were you ripped off ?, of course you were, its what garages do best-if they can. is bearing up to the job? if Yam put it in there then yes, up to a point, no oil or too much pressure-metal parts 'no-likey'!, well done you for having a go and saving yourself more than a hundred Earth pounds Sterling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike1949 Posted June 15, 2009 Author Share Posted June 15, 2009 from the look of that bearing I would guess you may have a blocked oil gallery Regards Jim Cheers Jim Next obvious question. How do I check the oil galleries? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimR Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 Cheers Jim Next obvious question. How do I check the oil galleries? Hi Mike, not an easy job .... if the bike has been run slow or short there will be a build up of crud (mayo) in the small oilways (galleries) through the crankcase (via the geni shaft) which lube the clutch & Gearbox .. best way to fix this is to make sure your oil is not white (if so change it) blank off the oil cooler with tin foil and give the bike 'a good seeing to' this I hope will remove all the mayo from the galleries/internal oilways which in turn will give the clutch etc the lube it needs. Or you could just run the bike up for an hour or two at about 4~5k (annoying the next doors) in order to get the oil hot enuff. Either way after this is done change the oil & filter Regards Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike1949 Posted June 16, 2009 Author Share Posted June 16, 2009 Hi Mike, not an easy job .... if the bike has been run slow or short there will be a build up of crud (mayo) in the small oilways (galleries) through the crankcase (via the geni shaft) which lube the clutch & Gearbox .. best way to fix this is to make sure your oil is not white (if so change it) blank off the oil cooler with tin foil and give the bike 'a good seeing to' this I hope will remove all the mayo from the galleries/internal oilways which in turn will give the clutch etc the lube it needs. Or you could just run the bike up for an hour or two at about 4~5k (annoying the next doors) in order to get the oil hot enuff. Either way after this is done change the oil & filter Regards Jim Cheers Jim Yes, I do frequent short journeys every day to work, 6 miles each way. What I do tend to do is let the bike tick over for about 10 minutes when I get to work about 0530 and turn it off when the sight glass shows the oil is normal. I'll certainly give it a try covering the oil cooler with tin foil, I had toyed with the idea of covering the engine to stop it getting to much cold air in the morning but it's not easy with four downpipes in the way. Going home at night this time of year is no problem but in the winter the engine never seems to warm up. Thanks for your help Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimR Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 Cheers Jim Yes, I do frequent short journeys every day to work, 6 miles each way. What I do tend to do is let the bike tick over for about 10 minutes when I get to work about 0530 and turn it off when the sight glass shows the oil is normal. I'll certainly give it a try covering the oil cooler with tin foil, I had toyed with the idea of covering the engine to stop it getting to much cold air in the morning but it's not easy with four downpipes in the way. Going home at night this time of year is no problem but in the winter the engine never seems to warm up. Thanks for your help Jim Hi Mike, the oil cooler being covered should do the job as I guess the oil will not cool and allow the hot oil to run thro those holes (galleries) and should stop the degrade of the clutch release bearing ! Regards Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike1949 Posted June 17, 2009 Author Share Posted June 17, 2009 Hi Mike, the oil cooler being covered should do the job as I guess the oil will not cool and allow the hot oil to run thro those holes (galleries) and should stop the degrade of the clutch release bearing ! Regards Jim Cheers Jim, it's certainly made a difference. I covered it last night and when I got into work this morning just after 0530 by the time I clocked in and got my kit off the oil in the view glass was clear after five minutes as apposed to about fifteen/twenty minutes prior to this. It's due for an oil change this weekend so lets hope it should go on indefinately. Thanks again for your help Jim, much appreciated. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimR Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 Cheers Jim, it's certainly made a difference. I covered it last night and when I got into work this morning just after 0530 by the time I clocked in and got my kit off the oil in the view glass was clear after five minutes as apposed to about fifteen/twenty minutes prior to this. It's due for an oil change this weekend so lets hope it should go on indefinately. Thanks again for your help Jim, much appreciated. Mike Hi Mike, before you do the oil & filter change try to get the bike really hot i.e 50 miles or so at high rpm (this doesn't mean high speed but is more fun if you do ) then drain the oil when well hot ... if you can drain it as soon as the motor stops which will give you a more thorougher oil change. Just wondered what you did for a living ... getting your kit off or is it something we shouldn't know about Regards Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike1949 Posted June 18, 2009 Author Share Posted June 18, 2009 Hi Mike, before you do the oil & filter change try to get the bike really hot i.e 50 miles or so at high rpm (this doesn't mean high speed but is more fun if you do ) then drain the oil when well hot ... if you can drain it as soon as the motor stops which will give you a more thorougher oil change. Just wondered what you did for a living ... getting your kit off or is it something we shouldn't know about Regards Jim Will do Jim, I allways warm it up but will hot it up this time, thanks again for your help. As for what I do for a living, it's nothing untoward or immoral, I work in plastic injection moulding and wear shorts at work but coming to work this time of the morning is quite cold. I hate seeing bikers just wearing shorts and a teeshirt even if it is hot. Oh, just a snippet, we mould Renthal's handle bar grips for them. Regards Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimR Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 Will do Jim, I allways warm it up but will hot it up this time, thanks again for your help. As for what I do for a living, it's nothing untoward or immoral, I work in plastic injection moulding and wear shorts at work but coming to work this time of the morning is quite cold. I hate seeing bikers just wearing shorts and a teeshirt even if it is hot. Oh, just a snippet, we mould Renthal's handle bar grips for them. Regards Mike Hi Mike, too right about the tee shirt/shorts mob !!! but back to the Divi when I say hot I mean cooking !!! Regards Jim P.S any chance of a pair of girps to fit a Fizzy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike1949 Posted June 19, 2009 Author Share Posted June 19, 2009 P.S any chance of a pair of girps to fit a Fizzy No problem at all. There must be a way of contacting me without letting every man and his dog know. Paul(old git) did. So I could post you some or it's possible I might be up to Evesham during the football season wether by bike or coach depends on time of year and weather. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shiny Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Does anyone know the bearing number? I can order one through work but will need the number or the sizes. regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike1949 Posted May 5, 2012 Author Share Posted May 5, 2012 Does anyone know the bearing number? I can order one through work but will need the number or the sizes. regards Bearing 93340-21505 approx £11.00 Washer 90201-150U6 approx £6.00 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doc-hoc Posted July 23, 2012 Share Posted July 23, 2012 So for someone who has never dealt with a clutch before [i said clutch ] how hard is it to change thrust washer and thrust bearing as i have the same prob gears up ok gears down almost a stamp and now slack on the cluch lever so sounds exactly same to me garage has quoted £150 .oil is creamy white and only changed about 3 months ago but very short journeys at mo ......cheers andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts