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XS Brake compatibility


HotelBushranger
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Drilled rotors allow for greater stopping power with the same pressure. When you press the pads against the rotor they basically start to slowly turn into a gas. The holes let the gas escape rather than be trapped between the pad and the rotor, increasing stopping power.

One of the best and easiest upgrades for these old bikes on the brakes is to replace the stock hoses with braided steel lines, not only are the originals probably coming apart internally (which will reduce braking power) but they have a LOT more give than braided steel lines. Also IIRC EBC has replacement rotor kits for most if not all the XS models that provide a more modern floating style drilled disk which is supposed to both reduce unsprung weight (makes for better handling) and increase stopping power (they claim up to 30% or someting like that) over stock. I'm thinking about changing out the dual disks on my XS11 for the EBC ones, but not until I have replaced the lines and such first (and then maybe I won't feel I need it).

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Hi,

That is what I stated the only other problem you may have is mounting the 650 caliper (I forgot that one) as you may find the bolt holes dont marry up

Regards Jim

Actually IIRC the part number for the left side XS1100, 850, 750 and for the 650 rotor are all the same. Even the specials all use the same rotor, now the brake caliper is another story, some of the special use a weird harold odd caliper that pivots, but IIRC the 400, and 650 at least share the same caliper with the XS1100 standard. (well the left side front caliper at least).

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Drilled rotors allow for greater stopping power with the same pressure. When you press the pads against the rotor they basically start to slowly turn into a gas. The holes let the gas escape rather than be trapped between the pad and the rotor, increasing stopping power.

One of the best and easiest upgrades for these old bikes on the brakes is to replace the stock hoses with braided steel lines, not only are the originals probably coming apart internally (which will reduce braking power) but they have a LOT more give than braided steel lines. Also IIRC EBC has replacement rotor kits for most if not all the XS models that provide a more modern floating style drilled disk which is supposed to both reduce unsprung weight (makes for better handling) and increase stopping power (they claim up to 30% or someting like that) over stock. I'm thinking about changing out the dual disks on my XS11 for the EBC ones, but not until I have replaced the lines and such first (and then maybe I won't feel I need it).

Hi,

How much time have you spent trying to drill discs ? I would guess that better hoses will help (the oem only had a 3 year life). Adding floating discs may introduce another problem to an old caliper (it was not designed for those discs) and may produce some odd braking effects ... but as you have done it I guess you know best

Regards Jim

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Hi,

How much time have you spent trying to drill discs ? I would guess that better hoses will help (the oem only had a 3 year life). Adding floating discs may introduce another problem to an old caliper (it was not designed for those discs) and may produce some odd braking effects ... but as you have done it I guess you know best

Regards Jim

I havn't done any drilling of disks, although I have a template to mark them with and a set of instruction on how to do it with a small drillpress. That said there are several guys out there that will drill them for you. However, if I wanted drilled I would get the EBC set since it was designed by one of the leading MC brake manufacturers specifically for these bikes and their calipers. These calipers have a LOT of travel available so provided they EBC rotors are offset correctly (and I'm told by those who have installed them that they are) they will work just fine once the brakes have been pumped up for the first time. For the time being I'm going to stick with only changing the hoses, as I have it on good authority that it's the biggest upgrade you can do on these bikes. If you can, watch what your rubber hoses do when you clamp down on the brakes, you can see them swell up a bit, and the woven stainless lines don't do that. I know they sure make a difference on a car, I'm sure on a bike with a far higher percentage of flexible line it should be even more evident.

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I havn't done any drilling of disks, although I have a template to mark them with and a set of instruction on how to do it with a small drillpress. That said there are several guys out there that will drill them for you. However, if I wanted drilled I would get the EBC set since it was designed by one of the leading MC brake manufacturers specifically for these bikes and their calipers. These calipers have a LOT of travel available so provided they EBC rotors are offset correctly (and I'm told by those who have installed them that they are) they will work just fine once the brakes have been pumped up for the first time. For the time being I'm going to stick with only changing the hoses, as I have it on good authority that it's the biggest upgrade you can do on these bikes. If you can, watch what your rubber hoses do when you clamp down on the brakes, you can see them swell up a bit, and the woven stainless lines don't do that. I know they sure make a difference on a car, I'm sure on a bike with a far higher percentage of flexible line it should be even more evident.

Hi,

which was my suggestion !!! I've fitted loads of Heli hoses and the brakes work fine ... without any other mods !

Regards Jim

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Hi,

which was my suggestion !!! I've fitted loads of Heli hoses and the brakes work fine ... without any other mods !

Regards Jim

I think we are both making the same suggestion and agreeing here. I was just pointing out the additional options if desired, but in nearly all cases just the new hoses do the job just fine.

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