Diversion not starting

[jdh21]

My 1995 diversion broke down with a blown main fuse . After a while and replacing the fuse the bike ran for about 10 miles before blowing the fuse again .The only way I could get it home was by unpluging the regulator and replacing the fuse .

Since then the bike hasn't run , I have cleaned the multi plugs and connections , and put on a new regulator . Now when I press the starter switch the only thing I get is the oil pressure light comming on , no clicking or anything! .The starter turns when the solenoid is bridged .

Would running it for 13 miles with the regulator unpluged have damaged anything else ? may be the relay .

Thanks for any help

jdh

[JimR]

My 1995 diversion broke down with a blown main fuse . After a while and replacing the fuse the bike ran for about 10 miles before blowing the fuse again .The only way I could get it home was by unpluging the regulator and replacing the fuse .

Since then the bike hasn't run , I have cleaned the multi plugs and connections , and put on a new regulator . Now when I press the starter switch the only thing I get is the oil pressure light comming on , no clicking or anything! .The starter turns when the solenoid is bridged .

Would running it for 13 miles with the regulator unpluged have damaged anything else ? may be the relay .

Thanks for any help

jdh

hmm ,

dont forget the oil light is level & not pressure !

I guess the neutral light is working, if not the bike may be confused thinking its in gear so you could try making sure the side stand is up & the clutch is pulled in. With the oil light coming on you have power to the switch so the problem will lie further down the wiring if the n light is working .. Sounds like the problem was the VR allowing a high voltage but it may have been the genny which blew the VR out. By disconnecting the VR and riding the bike you could have damaged 1) the genny (but I would doubt it) 2) the battery from the original overcharge and from perhaps flattening it on the 10 miles home. A test to do would be to first off check for a spark, take the plugs out earth them to the head switch the bike on and jump the starter switch, if you get a spark at this point reinstall the plugs and try to start the motor via jumping the starter switch, If it does go you will need a multi meter to check the voltage across the battery (13.8v @ 3k should be good, which should rise no higher than this as the RPM's increase to say 9k,). If this works I would guess you have a nacked starter switch, check for melted wires to it & across the loom check for burn/heat marks as this may indicate a fault within the loom.

sorry not to be more help but until you start the fault finding process all I can give you is a collection of things it may be, so perhaps you need to start checking things in a logical order so they can be removed from the problem. Do ur switches first sidestand,clutch, engine kill switch & N light then move down the system.

Regards Jim

[jdh21]

hmm ,

dont forget the oil light is level & not pressure !

I guess the neutral light is working, if not the bike may be confused thinking its in gear so you could try making sure the side stand is up & the clutch is pulled in. With the oil light coming on you have power to the switch so the problem will lie further down the wiring if the n light is working .. Sounds like the problem was the VR allowing a high voltage but it may have been the genny which blew the VR out. By disconnecting the VR and riding the bike you could have damaged 1) the genny (but I would doubt it) 2) the battery from the original overcharge and from perhaps flattening it on the 10 miles home. A test to do would be to first off check for a spark, take the plugs out earth them to the head switch the bike on and jump the starter switch, if you get a spark at this point reinstall the plugs and try to start the motor via jumping the starter switch, If it does go you will need a multi meter to check the voltage across the battery (13.8v @ 3k should be good, which should rise no higher than this as the RPM's increase to say 9k,). If this works I would guess you have a nacked starter switch, check for melted wires to it & across the loom check for burn/heat marks as this may indicate a fault within the loom.

sorry not to be more help but until you start the fault finding process all I can give you is a collection of things it may be, so perhaps you need to start checking things in a logical order so they can be removed from the problem. Do ur switches first sidestand,clutch, engine kill switch & N light then move down the system.

Regards Jim

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Thanks for getting back , yes the neutral light is working as is all the lights ,flashers ,horn ,sidestand switch , and brake lights . I thought of the relay because the wiring diagram shows the regulator , starter and oil pressure light comming from it.

I did put the battery coditioner on when i got back and all the lights on it did the usual things , but will try and get a meter and do the checks you recommended.

Thanks jdh

[JimR]

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I thought of the relay because the wiring diagram shows the regulator , starter and oil pressure light comming from it.

Thanks jdh

Hi Jdh,

dont forget the oil light is a level switch & not pressure switch.. if you give the bike loadsa beens up hill the light will come on this is not an engine fault just the oil being pumped around the system and the switch being devoid of oil, just thought I would mention this for the future as if it was a pressure switch this would indicate serious engine damage so as long as you know this may happen don't worry, and of course it has no bearing on the problem you have at the moment.

Regards Jim

[jdh21]

Hi Jdh,

dont forget the oil light is a level switch & not pressure switch.. if you give the bike loadsa beens up hill the light will come on this is not an engine fault just the oil being pumped around the system and the switch being devoid of oil, just thought I would mention this for the future as if it was a pressure switch this would indicate serious engine damage so as long as you know this may happen don't worry, and of course it has no bearing on the problem you have at the moment.

Regards Jim

Thanks Jim , I did pick up on that from your first reply , but just had switch on my mind . sorry! Thank goodness its not a pressure switch , i have enough to bother me !

thanks jdh

[jdh21]

Thanks Jim , I did pick up on that from your first reply , but just had switch on my mind . sorry! Thank goodness its not a pressure switch , i have enough to bother me !

thanks jdh

Hi Jim, just to let you know I changed the relay last night and the bike started . I got hold of a meter and checked the voltage across the batery as you suggested . It was reading 14.8v but on checking the recommended values in the Haynes manual , it said 14.3v to 15.3v , so all was well.

I have done a 30 mile run today and got home , so hope the problem is fixed.

Thanks jdh

[JimR]

Hi Jim, just to let you know I changed the relay last night and the bike started . I got hold of a meter and checked the voltage across the batery as you suggested . It was reading 14.8v but on checking the recommended values in the Haynes manual , it said 14.3v to 15.3v , so all was well.

I have done a 30 mile run today and got home , so hope the problem is fixed.

Thanks jdh

Great ... 14.8v is smack in the middle to a degree 15v should start to warm the wiring up .. not good and sorry about the typo should have read 14.8 & not 13.8

Regards Jim